Tomaž Humar (February 18, 1969 – c. November 10, 2009), nicknamed Gozdni Joža[1] (akin to Hillbilly), was a Slovenian mountaineer. A father of two, Humar lived in Kamnik, Slovenia. He completed over 1500 ascents, and won a number of mountaineering and other awards, including the Piolet d'Or in 1996 for his Ama Dablam ascent.[2]
Humar became widely recognized in 1999 after his solo ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri,[3] considered one of the deadliest routes in the Himalayas with a 40% fatality rate.[4]
During a solo attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in 2005, Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters.[5] After six days in a snow cave he was rescued by a Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10, 2005: Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ulah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana.[6]
On October 28, 2007, Humar reached the Eastern summit of Annapurna I, 8,091 metres (26,545 ft), via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face.[7][8]
On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung (last climbed in 1995[9]), had an accident during the descent.[10] His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries. He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters (20,700 ft) for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009, at an elevation of 5,600 meters (18,400 ft).[11]
Prominent expeditions
Langtang Lirung
13. November 1994: Ganesh V (6770 m), in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-Šrauf
6. May 1995: Annapurna (8091 m), N face, French Route, solo climb (the only traditional expedition in which he participated)
4. May 1996: Ama Dablam (6828 m), new route on NW face, with Vanja Furlan
2. November 1996: Bobaye (6808 m), 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
1. October 1997: Lobuche East (6119 m), NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and Carlos Carsolio
9-11. October 1997: Pumori (7165 m), SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route), with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač
31. October 1997: Nuptse West top (NW, 7742 m), W face, new route, with Janez Jeglič (who died during descent)
26. October 1998: El Capitan (2307 m) (Yosemite), route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb (1st solo by non-American)
2. November 1999: Dhaulagiri (8167 m), new route on S face (up to 8000 m, without reaching the top), solo climb
26. October 2002: Shisha Pangma, (8046 m), with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
June 2003: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), his first attempt to climb Rupal (S) Face, up to ca. 6000 m
22. December 2003: Aconcagua (6960 m), S face, new route with Aleš Koželj
October 2004: Jannu (7711 m), E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m
23. April 2005: Cholatse (6440 m), NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Aleš Koželj, Janko Oprešnik
Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), attempt to solo climb Rupal (S) Face, up to 7000 meters (with famous helicopter rescue action - see main text above)
October 2006: Baruntse (7129 m), W face of SE ridge, solo
28. October 2007: Annapurna (8091 m), S face, new route, solo climb
(ca.) 8. November 2009: Langtang Lirung (7227 m), S face solo attempt, died during descent
Bibliography
Tomaz Humar: Black Rock. The Northwest Face of Bobaye. "American Alpine Journal", Vol. 1997, pp. 17–18
Tomaz Humar: Nuptse West Face. "American Alpine Journal", Vol. 1998, pp. 3–10
Tomaž Humar: Ni nemogočih poti. Mobitel, Ljubljana 2001. (ISBN961-6403-23-0) COBISS 112438016 (in Slovene), 207 pages
Tomaž Humar: No Impossible Ways (transl. Tamara Soban). Mobitel, Ljubljana 2001. (ISBN961-6403-23-0), 104 pages
Further reading
Bernadette McDonald (2008). Tomaž Humar. Hutchinson, London, UK. (ISBN9780091795474)
References
^T. K. B., R. K. (14 November 2009). "Življenje Tomaža Humarja se je končalo na gori" [Tomaž Humar's life ended on the mountain] (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. Retrieved 25 November 2013.
^. Dhaulagiri.extremekanal.com. Archived from the original on 2009-11-18. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^"Tomaz Humar Soloing on the South Face of Dhaulagirl". Rockclimbing.com. 2002-10-19. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^MacDonald, Dougald. "Humar Trapped on Nanga Parbat". Climbing.com. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^"Tomaz Humar Rescued from Nanga Parbat". Everestnews.com. 2005. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^"Tomas Humar: New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna". Russianclimb.com. October 2007. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^"Tomaz Humar klettert solo durch die Annapurna Südwand". Bergsteigen.at. 2007-11-22. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^. SummitPost. 2007-09-18. Archived from the original on May 17, 2008. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
^"Tomaz Humar Stuck on Langtang Lirung with broken leg??". www.everestnews.com.
^Manchanda, Sukhpreet (2007-08-19). "Slovenian climber dies in Himalayas". Topnews.in. Retrieved 2009-11-14.
External links
Tomaž Humar dies in Langtang Lirung
Tomaž Humar final rescue attempt
Tomaz Humar - Daily Telegraph obituary
- Climbing Magazine detailed obituary by Dougald MacDonald
May 05, 2023
tomaž, humar, february, 1969, november, 2009, nicknamed, gozdni, joža, akin, hillbilly, slovenian, mountaineer, father, humar, lived, kamnik, slovenia, completed, over, 1500, ascents, number, mountaineering, other, awards, including, piolet, 1996, dablam, asce. Tomaz Humar February 18 1969 c November 10 2009 nicknamed Gozdni Joza 1 akin to Hillbilly was a Slovenian mountaineer A father of two Humar lived in Kamnik Slovenia He completed over 1500 ascents and won a number of mountaineering and other awards including the Piolet d Or in 1996 for his Ama Dablam ascent 2 Tomaz HumarBorn 1969 02 18 February 18 1969Ljubljana SR Slovenia YugoslaviaDiedNovember 10 2009 2009 11 10 aged 40 Langtang Lirung NepalOccupationMountaineerChildren2Websitewww humar com Contents 1 Climbing career 2 Prominent expeditions 3 Bibliography 4 Further reading 5 References 6 External linksClimbing career EditHumar became widely recognized in 1999 after his solo ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri 3 considered one of the deadliest routes in the Himalayas with a 40 fatality rate 4 During a solo attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in 2005 Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters 5 After six days in a snow cave he was rescued by a Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10 2005 Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ulah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana 6 On October 28 2007 Humar reached the Eastern summit of Annapurna I 8 091 metres 26 545 ft via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face 7 8 On November 9 2009 Humar who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung last climbed in 1995 9 had an accident during the descent 10 His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg spine and rib injuries He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6 300 meters 20 700 ft for several days before his body was found on November 14 2009 at an elevation of 5 600 meters 18 400 ft 11 Prominent expeditions Edit Langtang Lirung 13 November 1994 Ganesh V 6770 m in Ganesh Himal new variation on SE face with Stane Belak Srauf 6 May 1995 Annapurna 8091 m N face French Route solo climb the only traditional expedition in which he participated 4 May 1996 Ama Dablam 6828 m new route on NW face with Vanja Furlan 2 November 1996 Bobaye 6808 m 1st ascent of the summit NW face new route Golden Heart solo climb 1 October 1997 Lobuche East 6119 m NE face new route Talking About Tsampa with Janez Jeglic and Carlos Carsolio 9 11 October 1997 Pumori 7165 m SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route with Janez Jeglic Marjan Kovac 31 October 1997 Nuptse West top NW 7742 m W face new route with Janez Jeglic who died during descent 26 October 1998 El Capitan 2307 m Yosemite route Reticent Wall A4 A5 3rd solo climb 1st solo by non American 2 November 1999 Dhaulagiri 8167 m new route on S face up to 8000 m without reaching the top solo climb 26 October 2002 Shisha Pangma 8046 m with Maxut Zhumaiev Denis Urubko Aleksej Raspopov Vassiliy Pivtsov June 2003 Nanga Parbat 8125 m his first attempt to climb Rupal S Face up to ca 6000 m 22 December 2003 Aconcagua 6960 m S face new route with Ales Kozelj October 2004 Jannu 7711 m E face attempt solo up to 7000 m 23 April 2005 Cholatse 6440 m NE face 2nd ascent with new variation with Ales Kozelj Janko Opresnik Aug 2005 Nanga Parbat 8125 m attempt to solo climb Rupal S Face up to 7000 meters with famous helicopter rescue action see main text above October 2006 Baruntse 7129 m W face of SE ridge solo 28 October 2007 Annapurna 8091 m S face new route solo climb ca 8 November 2009 Langtang Lirung 7227 m S face solo attempt died during descentBibliography EditTomaz Humar Black Rock The Northwest Face of Bobaye American Alpine Journal Vol 1997 pp 17 18 Tomaz Humar Nuptse West Face American Alpine Journal Vol 1998 pp 3 10 Tomaz Humar Ni nemogocih poti Mobitel Ljubljana 2001 ISBN 961 6403 23 0 COBISS 112438016 in Slovene 207 pages Tomaz Humar No Impossible Ways transl Tamara Soban Mobitel Ljubljana 2001 ISBN 961 6403 23 0 104 pagesFurther reading EditBernadette McDonald 2008 Tomaz Humar Hutchinson London UK ISBN 9780091795474 References Edit T K B R K 14 November 2009 Zivljenje Tomaza Humarja se je koncalo na gori Tomaz Humar s life ended on the mountain in Slovenian RTV Slovenija Retrieved 25 November 2013 Ama Dablam Tomaz Humar Himalaya Extreme ultimate climbing page Dhaulagiri extremekanal com Archived from the original on 2009 11 18 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Tomaz Humar Soloing on the South Face of Dhaulagirl Rockclimbing com 2002 10 19 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Nepal Annapurnas Dhaulagiri and Mustang area Fotopedia com 2008 10 07 Retrieved 2009 11 14 MacDonald Dougald Humar Trapped on Nanga Parbat Climbing com Retrieved 2009 11 14 Tomaz Humar Rescued from Nanga Parbat Everestnews com 2005 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Tomas Humar New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna Russianclimb com October 2007 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Tomaz Humar klettert solo durch die Annapurna Sudwand Bergsteigen at 2007 11 22 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Langtang Lirung SummitPost 2007 09 18 Archived from the original on May 17 2008 Retrieved 2009 11 14 Tomaz Humar Stuck on Langtang Lirung with broken leg www everestnews com Manchanda Sukhpreet 2007 08 19 Slovenian climber dies in Himalayas Topnews in Retrieved 2009 11 14 External links EditTomaz Humar website Tomaz Humar website Expeditions National Geographic on incredible Nanga Parbat rescue Tomaz Humar dies in Langtang Lirung Tomaz Humar final rescue attempt Tomaz Humar Daily Telegraph obituary Tomaz Humar Dies on Langtang Lirung Climbing Magazine detailed obituary by Dougald MacDonald Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Tomaz Humar amp oldid 1138374224, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
