Długosz became the leading Polish climber in the mid-1950s due to his significant climbs in the Tatras, including the two hardest routes at that time (and needing new aid equipment), routes in 1955 (so-called Wariant R on the Mnich, with Andrzej Pietsch, and the left side of Kazalnica, with Czesław Momatiuk). He made the first winter ascents of the biggest walls in Polish Tatras in 1956-57, which demanded innovative tactics and techniques.
He successfully climbed in the Alps (in 1957, the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru, with Momatiuk and Stanisław Biel), in 1960 Grand Capucin and 1961, attempt to Eiger and in August 1961 the 1st ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney, considered then as 'The last problem of the Alps' which had seen a month earlier the tragic Bonatti-Mazeaud drama in which they lost four of their companions) and in Caucasus (1958 Ullu-Tau, 1959 Dykh-Tau and Shkhara).
Writingsedit
He was the author of more than 60 articles and stories about mountaineering which were published in professional magazines and popular media. Although he had tried to get a compilation of his best works published, the book wasn't pushed until nearly two years after his death. The book Komin Pokutników (eng. The Chimney of Penitents), including 13 mountaineering stories, appeared in 1964 and is still considered one of the best books about climbing written in Polish (at least 5 next editions till 2008). Two further books, one with his early stories and one with articles, the scenario of a documentary film, songs, and poems for cabaret) were published in 1994 and 1995.
Jan Długosz died on July 12, 1962, in an accident, falling from the ridge of Zadni Kościelec in High Tatras (during climb in relatively easy terrain, when he worked as a supervisor who controlled the training of climbing of special forces – there was the fog and, within a few hours, no one noticed that it happened).
Bibliographyedit
1964 – Komin Pokutników (set of 13 climbing stories). Publisher "Iskry", Warszawa 1964, series "Naokoło świata", pp. 301; next editions 1993, 1994
1994 – Komin Pokutników (set of 13 climbing stories), 1st full edition (from original manuscripts and notes, with added 60-page historical comments, climbing routes depicted, maps, by Ewa Dereń, Grzegorz Głazek), "Text", Warszawa 1994, ISBN83-86144-01-7, pp. 281; "2nd full edition" publ. by "Ati", Kraków 1995, ISBN83-86219-14-9, pp. 295
Referencesedit
^facsimile of three documents on pages 285-286 of the 1994 edition of Komin Pokutników (see Bibliography)
Sourcesedit
1967 – "Taternik" (magazine) No 3, 1967, issue In memoriam Jan Długosz (pp. 111–130) (in Polish), with the list of his ascents and publications
Zofia Radwańska-Paryska, Witold Henryk Paryski, Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska (WET, engl. "The Great Encyclopedia of Tatras"), Wydawnictwo Górskie, Poronin (Poland) 1995, reprint edition 2004; ISBN83-7104-009-1, entry Jan Długosz (p. 216) (in Polish) (also exists as electronic version: a) on the CD ROM published by Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, Warszawa 1999; ISBN83-01-12853-4, b) available in internet, see External links)
Ivan Dieška a kolektív, Horolezectvo – encyklopédia, „Šport”, Bratislava 1986 (in Slovak); ISBN80-7096-015-9, entry Jan Długosz (p. 79)
External linksedit
internet version of Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska, entry Jan Długosz, (in Polish), after Zofia i Witold H. Paryscy, Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska (Retrieved 28 March 2010)
November 17, 2023
długosz, mountaineer, medieval, polish, scholar, długosz, długosz, july, 1929, warsaw, poland, july, 1962, high, tatras, polish, mountaineer, writer, lived, kraków, south, poland, 1961, participated, first, ascent, central, pillar, frêney, mont, blanc, british. For the medieval Polish scholar see Jan Dlugosz Jan Dlugosz July 12 1929 Warsaw 1 Poland July 2 1962 in High Tatras was a Polish mountaineer and writer He lived in Krakow South Poland In 1961 he participated in the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on Mont Blanc by a British Polish team with Don Whillans Chris Bonington and Ian Clough Contents 1 Career 2 Writings 3 Bibliography 4 References 5 Sources 6 External linksCareer editDlugosz became the leading Polish climber in the mid 1950s due to his significant climbs in the Tatras including the two hardest routes at that time and needing new aid equipment routes in 1955 so called Wariant R on the Mnich with Andrzej Pietsch and the left side of Kazalnica with Czeslaw Momatiuk He made the first winter ascents of the biggest walls in Polish Tatras in 1956 57 which demanded innovative tactics and techniques He successfully climbed in the Alps in 1957 the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru with Momatiuk and Stanislaw Biel in 1960 Grand Capucin and 1961 attempt to Eiger and in August 1961 the 1st ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney considered then as The last problem of the Alps which had seen a month earlier the tragic Bonatti Mazeaud drama in which they lost four of their companions and in Caucasus 1958 Ullu Tau 1959 Dykh Tau and Shkhara Writings editHe was the author of more than 60 articles and stories about mountaineering which were published in professional magazines and popular media Although he had tried to get a compilation of his best works published the book wasn t pushed until nearly two years after his death The book Komin Pokutnikow eng The Chimney of Penitents including 13 mountaineering stories appeared in 1964 and is still considered one of the best books about climbing written in Polish at least 5 next editions till 2008 Two further books one with his early stories and one with articles the scenario of a documentary film songs and poems for cabaret were published in 1994 and 1995 Jan Dlugosz died on July 12 1962 in an accident falling from the ridge of Zadni Koscielec in High Tatras during climb in relatively easy terrain when he worked as a supervisor who controlled the training of climbing of special forces there was the fog and within a few hours no one noticed that it happened Bibliography edit1964 Komin Pokutnikow set of 13 climbing stories Publisher Iskry Warszawa 1964 series Naokolo swiata pp 301 next editions 1993 1994 1994 Komin Pokutnikow set of 13 climbing stories 1st full edition from original manuscripts and notes with added 60 page historical comments climbing routes depicted maps by Ewa Deren Grzegorz Glazek Text Warszawa 1994 ISBN 83 86144 01 7 pp 281 2nd full edition publ by Ati Krakow 1995 ISBN 83 86219 14 9 pp 295References edit facsimile of three documents on pages 285 286 of the 1994 edition of Komin Pokutnikow see Bibliography Sources edit1967 Taternik magazine No 3 1967 issue In memoriam Jan Dlugosz pp 111 130 in Polish with the list of his ascents and publications Zofia Radwanska Paryska Witold Henryk Paryski Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzanska WET engl The Great Encyclopedia of Tatras Wydawnictwo Gorskie Poronin Poland 1995 reprint edition 2004 ISBN 83 7104 009 1 entry Jan Dlugosz p 216 in Polish also exists as electronic version a on the CD ROM published by Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN Warszawa 1999 ISBN 83 01 12853 4 b available in internet see External links Ivan Dieska a kolektiv Horolezectvo encyklopedia Sport Bratislava 1986 in Slovak ISBN 80 7096 015 9 entry Jan Dlugosz p 79 External links editinternet version of Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzanska entry Jan Dlugosz in Polish after Zofia i Witold H Paryscy Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzanska Retrieved 28 March 2010 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Jan Dlugosz mountaineer amp oldid 1154796385, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
