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Irish clothing

Traditional Irish clothing is the traditional attire which would have been worn historically by Irish people in Ireland. During the 16th-century Tudor conquest of Ireland, the Dublin Castle administration proscribed many of Ireland’s clothing traditions.[1] A series of photos captured by French photographers Marguerite Mespoulet and Madeleine Mignon-Alba in 1913 included images of Irish people in traditional clothing. Some of these photos were taken in Claddagh, a town thought to have retained much of its traditional attire.[2]

An Irish colleen in traditional dress, c.1890
Woven pattern on a 20th century Galway shawl

Aran jumpers were invented in the early 20th century. Irish Tweed is a woven fabric incorporating mutli-coloured neps - scraps of wool said originally to have been swept from the floor under the looms at the end of the day, and incorporated into the next day's weaving. In the past, much weaving was done in the home, with the fabric being delivered to a broker. Today, a few mills exist around Ireland which re-create this tweed in the traditional manner. Donegal is the heartland of Irish tweed and Donegal tweed is better known than other Irish tweeds.

History edit

 
Muiredach's High Cross (9th century) clearly depicting the Irish léine and mantles. Shoes or brogues and pants were also commonplace in Ireland since the early Medieval period long before the Anglo-Normans came to Ireland.
 
Dutch watercolour (c. 1575) of "Irish in the service of the late king Henry (VIII)" depicting a léine.

Little is known about Irish apparel before the twelfth century. Historians believe that the early inhabitants of Ireland dressed in wool cloth, although some argue that garments made of animal skins were more prevalent. By the thirteenth century, the Irish were bundling themselves in mantles, which are coats made of wool cloth. Most mantles were composed of small scraps of cloth sewn together, although the wealthy were able to afford mantles made from a single but very large piece of cloth.

Cloaks called brait (singular: brat), on the other hand, would signify wealth if they were made from several different colors. In fact, sumptuary portion of the brehon law decreed that slaves could only wear cloaks with one color, while freemen could wear four and kings wore several different colors.[dubious ] Beneath these brait, they wore léinte (singular: léine), long woollen or linen tunics that extended to the ground but were gathered into pleats and belted so that they fell to the knees (the excess material was allowed to hang down at the waist and cover the belt, as can be seen in the Dutch painting illustration). The léine was very wide at the bottom and narrow on top. Likewise, the léine's sleeves were narrow at the upper arms but widened greatly at the elbows. The sleeves were open to allow the lower arm to emerge, but hung down behind the elbow to the knee or sometimes as far as the ground in more ceremonial garb. Léinte were most often saffron-yellow (léine croich, 'saffron shirt'), but were also found in other solid colours (red, brown, green, black, etc.), or occasionally striped. The léine was worn throughout Gaelic culture, including in western Scotland, up until the late 16th century. In Ireland, traditional Gaelic dress, including the léine, was banned by the Dublin Castle administration.

 
William Gibson, 2nd Baron Ashbourne (1929) adopted "Irish dress" during the Gaelic revival.

Another garment, known as an inar, was a jacket, pleated at either beneath the breast, or at the waist, with split sleeves. Woodcarvings seem to indicate that inar were richly decorated, possibly through embroidery. In winter, a cota mór was added beneath the brat; this was a greatcoat made of thick wool, with a small standup collar and sleeves that unbuttoned below the elbow to allow the long sleeves of the léine to come through.

Less is known of the early apparel of the Irish women and children. Like men, women's clothing was mostly derived from wool. It is likely that the earliest female inhabitants of Ireland also donned léinte which looked similar (if not identical) to those of their male counterparts. By the fifteenth century, women were wearing long dresses made from wool cloth, often decorated with ribbons and other accessories. These dresses were created and worn in direct imitation of those worn in England.

References edit

  1. ^ Jaster, Margaret Rose (2001). "Breeding Dissoluteness and Disobedience: Clothing Laws as Tudor Colonialist Discourse". Critical Survey. 13 (3): 61–67. ISSN 0011-1570.
  2. ^ "First color photos of Ireland taken by two French women in 1913". IrishCentral.com. Retrieved 2024-03-03.

Sources edit

External links edit

  Media related to Clothing of Ireland at Wikimedia Commons

irish, clothing, this, article, multiple, issues, please, help, improve, discuss, these, issues, talk, page, learn, when, remove, these, template, messages, this, article, needs, additional, citations, verification, please, help, improve, this, article, adding. This article has multiple issues Please help improve it or discuss these issues on the talk page Learn how and when to remove these template messages This article needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed Find sources Irish clothing news newspapers books scholar JSTOR July 2021 Learn how and when to remove this message The neutrality of this article is disputed Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page Please do not remove this message until conditions to do so are met July 2021 Learn how and when to remove this message Learn how and when to remove this message Traditional Irish clothing is the traditional attire which would have been worn historically by Irish people in Ireland During the 16th century Tudor conquest of Ireland the Dublin Castle administration proscribed many of Ireland s clothing traditions 1 A series of photos captured by French photographers Marguerite Mespoulet and Madeleine Mignon Alba in 1913 included images of Irish people in traditional clothing Some of these photos were taken in Claddagh a town thought to have retained much of its traditional attire 2 An Irish colleen in traditional dress c 1890 Woven pattern on a 20th century Galway shawl Aran jumpers were invented in the early 20th century Irish Tweed is a woven fabric incorporating mutli coloured neps scraps of wool said originally to have been swept from the floor under the looms at the end of the day and incorporated into the next day s weaving In the past much weaving was done in the home with the fabric being delivered to a broker Today a few mills exist around Ireland which re create this tweed in the traditional manner Donegal is the heartland of Irish tweed and Donegal tweed is better known than other Irish tweeds Contents 1 History 2 References 3 Sources 4 External linksHistory edit nbsp Muiredach s High Cross 9th century clearly depicting the Irish leine and mantles Shoes or brogues and pants were also commonplace in Ireland since the early Medieval period long before the Anglo Normans came to Ireland nbsp Dutch watercolour c 1575 of Irish in the service of the late king Henry VIII depicting a leine Little is known about Irish apparel before the twelfth century Historians believe that the early inhabitants of Ireland dressed in wool cloth although some argue that garments made of animal skins were more prevalent By the thirteenth century the Irish were bundling themselves in mantles which are coats made of wool cloth Most mantles were composed of small scraps of cloth sewn together although the wealthy were able to afford mantles made from a single but very large piece of cloth Cloaks called brait singular brat on the other hand would signify wealth if they were made from several different colors In fact sumptuary portion of the brehon law decreed that slaves could only wear cloaks with one color while freemen could wear four and kings wore several different colors dubious discuss Beneath these brait they wore leinte singular leine long woollen or linen tunics that extended to the ground but were gathered into pleats and belted so that they fell to the knees the excess material was allowed to hang down at the waist and cover the belt as can be seen in the Dutch painting illustration The leine was very wide at the bottom and narrow on top Likewise the leine s sleeves were narrow at the upper arms but widened greatly at the elbows The sleeves were open to allow the lower arm to emerge but hung down behind the elbow to the knee or sometimes as far as the ground in more ceremonial garb Leinte were most often saffron yellow leine croich saffron shirt but were also found in other solid colours red brown green black etc or occasionally striped The leine was worn throughout Gaelic culture including in western Scotland up until the late 16th century In Ireland traditional Gaelic dress including the leine was banned by the Dublin Castle administration nbsp William Gibson 2nd Baron Ashbourne 1929 adopted Irish dress during the Gaelic revival Another garment known as an inar was a jacket pleated at either beneath the breast or at the waist with split sleeves Woodcarvings seem to indicate that inar were richly decorated possibly through embroidery In winter a cota mor was added beneath the brat this was a greatcoat made of thick wool with a small standup collar and sleeves that unbuttoned below the elbow to allow the long sleeves of the leine to come through Less is known of the early apparel of the Irish women and children Like men women s clothing was mostly derived from wool It is likely that the earliest female inhabitants of Ireland also donned leinte which looked similar if not identical to those of their male counterparts By the fifteenth century women were wearing long dresses made from wool cloth often decorated with ribbons and other accessories These dresses were created and worn in direct imitation of those worn in England References edit Jaster Margaret Rose 2001 Breeding Dissoluteness and Disobedience Clothing Laws as Tudor Colonialist Discourse Critical Survey 13 3 61 67 ISSN 0011 1570 First color photos of Ireland taken by two French women in 1913 IrishCentral com Retrieved 2024 03 03 Sources editMairead Dunlevy 1989 Dress in Ireland A History Collins Press ISBN 978 1 898256 84 7 Mairead Dunlevy 2011 Pomp and Poverty A History of Silk in Ireland Yale University Press ISBN 978 0 300170 41 2External links edit nbsp Media related to Clothing of Ireland at Wikimedia Commons https web archive org web 20160328103204 http www reconstructinghistory com articles irish articles what is traditional irish dress html https www gaelicattire com index htm Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Irish clothing amp oldid 1222921379, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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