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Wikipedia

Ice climbing

Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water. To ascend the route, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes (or the more modern ice tools) and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles (or ice-daggers).

From the 1970s, ice climbing developed as a standalone skill from alpine climbing (where ice climbing skills are used on ice and snow). Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe. WI7 is very rare and usually attributed to long routes of sheer vertical ice with serious risk issues (i.e. unstable ice, little protection, and a risk of death). Mixed climbing has pushed the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes by crossing bare rock overhangs and roofs (using ice tools on bare rock is called dry-tooling).

Since 2002, the UIAA have regulated competition ice climbing, which is offered in a lead climbing format on an artificial bolted wall that employs dry-tooling techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves), and in a speed climbing format that uses a standardized wall of real ice. Since 2010, ice climbers at Helmcken Falls in Canada have been able to use the unique characteristics of the waterfall to create new severely overhanging bolted ice climbing routes, that are graded up to WI13, and are possibly the hardest ice climbs in the world.

Description edit

Ice climbing involves using specific pieces of specialized equipment, namely ice tools and crampons, to ascend routes consisting of frozen water ice, or frozen snow fields. As with rock climbing, ice climbing can be done as free climbing (i.e. with no additional artificial or mechanical device to aid progression outside of the ice tools and crampons) and performed in pairs where the lead climber inserts climbing protection into the route as they ascend. The second climber (or belayer), removes this temporary climbing protection as they climb the route after the lead climber has reached the top.[1][2] In contrast to rock climbing, the type of protective equipment used when leading ice climbing routes, is mainly specialized steel ice screws.[1][2] Ice screws are complex pieces of equipment to use properly, and given that the condition of the ice can change materially over time (including constantly breaking off),[3] the seriousness of leading an ice climbing route is considered to be far greater than that of a traditional rock climbing route.[1][2] For example, while an intermediate ice climber could top rope a WI4-graded ice climb, leading WI4-graded route is a far more serious undertaking.[2] In contrast to rock climbing, "the leader must not fall" is part of ice climbing.[2][4]

Ice climbing can also be done as free solo climbing, which is an even riskier undertaking, or done as top roping which is a much safer form of ice climbing and the format used for novices being introduced to the sport.[5]

Ice climbing was developed as part of the broader climbing discipline of alpine climbing, where it is still a key component of the alpinist's skill set.[6] Where the ice climbing route does not fully consist of ice and has elements of bare rock, it is known as mixed climbing. Where the route has no ice whatsoever, but the climber still uses the ice tools and crampons, it is known as dry-tooling.[1][2] Because mixed climbing and dry-tooling routes can be fully bolted, like sport climbing routes, they have become popular as safer alternatives.[5]

Types of routes edit

Types of ice climbing routes
 
Central Pillar (WI5+), Weeping Wall, Canada
 
Chéré Couloir (WI4 M3), France
 
Silent Memories (WI6, M9), Italy
 
Juvsøyla (WI6), Norway

Ice climbing can take on a broad range of climbing routes. A common type of ice route is a frozen waterfall, particularly one that cascades down a mountain face or a down-mountain gully. Ice climbing routes can also take the form of high alpine snow-covered couloirs that are permanently frozen year-round. Giant icicles (also known as ice-daggers) have also been climbed as ice routes, and also as part of mixed routes; although such icicles can often dangerously break off and have been a source of several ice climber fatalities.[5]

Ice climbing routes normally don't move beyond the sheer vertical for sustained distances due to the nature of ice (i.e. ice rarely stays in an overhanging fashion for any length of time).[7] This means that standard ice-climbing grades broadly peak at WI6-7 (i.e. WI7 being completely sheer vertical ice and with additional risk issues).[7] In contrast, extreme mixed-climbing routes have been developed beyond the equivalent M8-grade (i.e. crossing bare overhanging rock roofs to get to the vertical hanging icicle, such as Jeff Lowe's groundbreaking Octopussy WI6 M8 in Vail, Colorado).[5]

In Helmcken Falls in Canada, an unusual situation arises where a perennially active waterfall keeps severely overhanging rock faces covered in thick ice, thus creating overhanging ice routes. Ice climbers have established bolted routes (there is enough rock for the bolts) that are graded above WI7 (currently at WI13, as at 2023) in Helmcken.[8]

History edit

For decades, ice climbing (and mixed climbing), had been part of the broader alpine climbing skill set. During the 1960s, ambitious early ice climbers began to use pitons to climb harder ice routes but this was dangerous and very unstable. The breakthrough came in the 1960s when Yvon Chouinard designed a new wooden-handled ice axe with a curved serrated pick called the "Climax". This was followed in 1970, when Hamish MacInnes designed the all-metal aluminum alloy ice axe that had a radically dropped pick called the "Terrordactyl" (or Terror). These two ice axes revolutionized ice climbing and eventually became merged into the modern all-metal ice axe (later the ice tool) with its dropped pick but curved and serrated tip (the now familiar "banana shape").[9]

 
Moonflower Buttress (WI6 M7 A2), Mount Hunter Alaska.[10]

Chouinard and McInnes' ice axes would lead to an explosion of interest in climbing on frozen waterfalls in the North American Rockies and in the European Alps. Ice climber and climbing author Raphael Slawinski wrote in the American Alpine Journal: "By the early 1980s ice climbing, from being merely one of the techniques in the alpinist's arsenal, had evolved into a full-blown technical art. The skills gained on waterfalls also gave rise to a whole new generation of alpine climbs. Slipstream (WI4+, 1979) in the Canadian Rockies blurred the distinction between waterfall ice and alpine climbing; the Moonflower Buttress (WI6 M7 A2, 1983) in the Alaska Range applied the highest levels of ice climbing skill to a major alpine first ascent; and the list goes on. Waterfall ice climbing, though initially pursued for its own sake, ended up revolutionizing alpine climbing".[6]

By the end of the 1980s, ice climbers had effectively reached the limits of what could be climbed at grade WI6-7; ultimately, the inherent tendency of the medium to hang in a vertical fashion limited the possibilities for development.[7] It was mixed climbing that began to drive development in ice climbing as pioneers like Jeff Lowe dry-tooled bare rock overhangs and roofs to get to more radical ice features, such as hanging icicles; the culmination of which was Lowe's historic ascent of Octopussy (WI6, M8) in Vail in 1994, which lead to the birth of modern mixed climbing.[6]

It would not be until 2010 when Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that ice climbing development would take a leap forward in technical development. Helmcken Fall's unique characteristics provided severely overhanging iced-routes, and in the next decade, grades jumped to WI13 with Mission to Mars in 2020. Emmett and Gadd consider Helmcken to be a potential Yosemite of ice climbing.[8]

Competition ice climbing edit

 
Lead ice climbing
 
Speed ice climbing

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has organized and regulated the sport of competition ice climbing since 2002 when the very first "Ice World Cup" (IWC) competition took place under the new UIAA rules and codes.[11]

Amongst others, the UIAA runs two main competition ice climbing events, the annual Ice Climbing World Cup (which is run as a series of events in the year) and the bi-annual Ice Climbing World Championships (a single, once-off, competition).[11][12]

Most of the IWC lead climbing routes are held on bolted dry artificial surfaces and thus employ dry-tooling techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves).[12] In contrast, the IWC speed-climbing routes are on a standardized 40–50 ft (12–15 m) wall of ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete (as per speed rock climbing).[12][13]

Over the years, the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment, including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools (so they cannot be used as aid), and increased controls on the use of "heel spurs" while climbing (to counter their use for resting).[14]

Equipment edit

Climbing edit

 
Advanced ergo ice tool[15]
 
Horizontal (l), Vertical (r) crampon
  • Ice axes or the more modern ice tools: Modern ice climbing requires double ice axes (or ergo ice tools); a key decision is whether it uses a leash or not. Competition ice climbing has prohibited leashes (as they can be used for aid), and most extreme mixed climbing tends not to use leashes. However, the lack of a leash means that the shock of any sudden "blowout" of the feet, can lead to an immediate fall.[2]
  • Crampons: Ice climbers often use mono-point crampons instead of the more typical dual-point crampons used by alpine climbers, to maintain greater control and cutting accuracy. Some favor the front points to be "vertical" (i.e. like a mini-ice tool), which increases cutting power but is less table and can "blowout" without warning; others use the traditional "horizontal" (i.e. flat like an adze) front points.[2]
  • Ice boots. Ice climbers can use the "shell" or "plastic" rigid mountaineering boots used by alpine climbers, to which crampons are attached. Advanced mixed climbers, and competition ice climbers, use "fruit boots", which are light boots with crampons integrated into the sole. In addition, fruit boots can add "heel spurs", which are used in mixed climbing for overhangs.[2]

Protection edit

 
Ice screw

Where ice climbing is done as lead climbing (i.e. not top roping), the key tool for protection is the ice screw, a hollow metal threaded steel tube with cutting teeth on its base and a hanger eye on the opposite end. It is screwed into the ice and its stability is dependent both on the angle and quality of its placement and the soundness of the ice.[1][2] Some ice climbs, such as in Helmcken Falls (see below), and also mixed and dry-tooling routes, have enough rock that enables them to be bolted like sport climbs, avoiding the need for screws.[2]

As well as ice screws, the ice itself can be used for protection, with the most common technique being the Abalakov thread (or V-thread/A-thread). This consists of two intersecting tunnels bored into the ice using ice screws that form a V-shaped tunnel. A sling is threaded through this tunnel and tied into a loop. The climbing rope is passed through this sling, which remains left behind after use. Because of the difficulty in construction, the common use of V-threads is as anchor points for abseiling or belaying, and not for lead climbing.[2]

Grading edit

WI-grades edit

 
Kristoffer Szilas on Pilsner Pillar (Grade WI6), Mt Dennis, Canada.[16]
 
Climber on Dryer Hose (Grade WI3+), Munising, Michigan

Ice climbing uses a WI (for "water ice") grading system.[5] WI-grades broadly equate to the mixed climbing M-grades from WI1 up to WI6, but after M6, mixed climbs become overhanging, which ice does not.[5] WI-grades try to take some account of the difficulty of placing protection on the route but, as with M-grades, are more focused on the technical and physical challenge of the route, and are thus more akin to the French and US sport climbing grades, although as with the US system, the "R/X" suffix is used for danger.[5]

The WI-grade is for "hard ice"; steep snow slopes, which are encountered frequently on alpine climbing routes, are not explicitly graded but instead, their steepest angle (approximate figure or a range) is quoted (e.g. 60–70 degree slope).[17][18] WI-grade is for "seasonal" hard ice; an AI prefix is used instead for "alpine ice", which is year-round and usually firmer, more stable, making AI-grade routes slightly easier than WI routes.[17][18]

In Canada, the WI prefix is sometimes dropped from the grade, and for longer multi-pitch ice routes, a "commitment grade" (a Roman numeral from I to VII) is also added to reflect the seriousness of the overall undertaking (e.g. the grade of a Canadian ice route can appear as III-5)[5]

The following WI-grades and descriptions are provided by the American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) who note: "Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. ... The following descriptions approximate the average systems:":[17][18] Additional comment is from Will Gadd.[5]

  • WI1: "Low angle, no ice tools are required".[17][18] Like scrambling with 10-point crampons up a frozen river, does not require double ice axes or front-pointing skills.[5]
  • WI2: "Consistent 60º ice with possible bulges; good protection".[17][18] Beginner routes can, if needed, be climbed with one ice axe; Will Gadd notes that WI2 has "more accidents than any other grade".[5]
  • WI3: "Sustained 70º with possible long bulges of 80º–90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws".[17][18] Will Gadd calls it "proper technical ice climbing needing a rope and double ice axes".[5]
  • WI4: "Continuous 80º ice fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests".[17][18] According to Gadd, "Strong novices can top rope WI4, but leading WI4 is serious".[5]
  • WI5: "Long and strenuous, with a rope length of 85º–90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that’s difficult to place".[17][18]
  • WI6: "A full rope length of near-90º ice with no rests, or a shorter pitch more tenuous than WI5. Highly technical".[17][18] According to Gadd, "the best climbers will find an occasional reason to retreat at WI6".[5]
  • WI7: "As per [WI6] above, but on thin poorly bonded ice or long, overhanging poorly adhered columns. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality".[17][18] Gadd calls WI7, "Semi-mythical", and "with a high publicity co-efficient, that often becomes a WI6 on repeat".[5][7] In 2023, Climbing magazine wrote that other leading Canadian ice climbers such as Quentin Roberts and Marc-André Leclerc had also publicly stated that pure WI7 grades could exist in nature.[19]
  • WI8: "Under discussion".[17][18] According to Gadd, "only claimed a few times", and "either bad gear and bad ice", or "an overhanging glacial serac that is like an M8 in physicality".[5]

Helmcken routes edit

 
Angelika Rainer [it] high up on the severely overhanging Clash of Titans (WI10+), Helmcken Falls.

In 2010, ice climbers Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that had unique characteristics. Unlike WI7 ice routes that rarely overhang, these routes were significantly overhanging like extreme M-graded routes. This was due to the intense spray from the active waterfall, which covered the overhanging routes in ice so that there was little dry-tooling, with all the movements on hard ice.[8]

As the routes were all bolted like M-grade climbs (a metal detector is used to find the bolts),[20] Emmett and Gadd re-established the link with M-grades to guide on the WI-grade. The result was a series of new WI-graded routes that laid claim to being the new "world's hardest ice climbing routes", starting with Spray On at WI10 in 2010, Wolverine at WI11 in 2011, Interstellar Spice at WI12 in 2016, and by 2020 reached WI13 with Mission to Mars.[8]

There has been debate in the ice climbing world around whether Helmcken-WI routes are really M-grade climbs.[8] In 2023, British ice climber Neil Gresham said that Helmcken routes are definitely harder than WI7 routes and that a confident M-climber will take time to adjust to the Helmcken WI-equivalent.[21]

Emmett has described Helmcken as the ice climbing equivalent of Yosemite,[8] and it has attracted some of the world's best ice climbers.[20]

M-grades edit

 
Pak Hi-jong [cs] on Tequila Stuntman (Grade M7 WI6) in Chamonix, France

When ice climbing is done as mixed climbing, a separate M-grading grading system is used, which goes from M1, M2, M3, ..... , M13, M14, etc.[5][17][18]

D-grades edit

When ice climbing is done as dry-tooling, which is ice climbing on bare rock, the M-grade is replaced by a "D" prefix.[5][22]

Evolution of grade milestones edit

 
Repentance Super WI5-6 Val di Cogne, Italy

The following ice climbs are particularly notable in the evolution of ice climbing grade milestones and ice climbing standards from being a skill used by alpine climbing to a standalone sport in its own right:[6]

  • 1979. Slipstream WI4+ Canadian Rockies. First ascent was in 1979 by Jim Elzinga and John Lauchlan; considered an important early example of the blurring between alpine climbing and pure ice climbing and the first major alpine, serac waterfall route in the Rockies.[23]
  • 1983. Gimme Shelter WI6 Canadian Rockies. First ascent was in 1983 by Kevin Doyle and Tim Friesen; considered an early WI7 contender in ice climbing, and the hardest ice route at the time;[7] grade since softened to WI6.[24]
  • 1987. Riptide WI6-7 Canadian Rockies. First ascent was in 1987 by Larry Ostrander and Jeff Marshall; considered an early WI7 contender in ice climbing, and the hardest ice route at the time;[7] grade since softened to WI6+.[25][26]
  • 1988. Reality Bath WI7 X Canadian Rockies. First ascent was in 1988 by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff; never been repeated and described by Albi Sole in the Canadian Rockies guide book as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined"; possibly first-ever WI7.[7]
  • 1989. Repentance Super WI5-6 Val di Cogne, Italy. First ascent was in 1989 by a non-local team of François Damilano [fr], Gian Carlo Grassi [it], and Fulvio Conta; considered the hardest ice climb in Europe at the time and a breakthrough in standards; mostly bolted now and grade softened.[27]
  • 2002. Rites of Passage WI7+ Mount Kitchener, Canadian Rockies. First ascent was in 2002 by Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet; initially graded WI8, but considered one of the few routes that are truly above WI7 (pre-Helmcken Falls), and the hardest route in the world at the time.[7][28]
  • 2010. Centrecourt WI7+ Gasteinertal, Austria. First ascent was in 2010 by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner; considered one of the hardest routes in the world at the time and another of the few ice climbing routes at WI7+.[29][30][31]

The grade milestones at Helmcken Falls are as follows:[32]

  • 2010. Spray On WI10. First ascent by Tim Emmett and Will Gadd at Helmcken Falls; first-ever WI10 in ice climbing; bolted.[8][32]
  • 2011. Wolverine W11. First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls; first-ever WI11 in ice climbing; bolted.[8][32][33]
  • 2016. Interstellar Spice W12. First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls; first-ever WI12 in ice climbing; bolted.[8][32][34]
  • 2020. Mission to Mars W13. First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls; first-ever WI13 in ice climbing; bolted.[8][34]

Free solo edit

A number of ice climbers have set new grade milestones in a free solo climbing style (i.e. no protection such as ice screws):

  • 1997. Sea of Vapours WI6+ Canadian Rockies. Free solo in 1997 by Guy Lacelle [fr]. Sea of Vapours was considered WI7+ at the time.[35]
  • 2017. Beta Block Super WI7 Breitwangfluh, Switzerland. Free solo in 2017 by Dani Arnold.[36][37]

In film edit

A number of notable climbing films have been made that feature ice climbing, including:[38]

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ a b c d e Lowe, Jeff (1996). Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing. Seattle: The Mountaineers.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l Gadd, Will (2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 14–35. ISBN 978-0898867695. Equipment
  3. ^ Yang, Maya (6 April 2023). "Woman dies saving fellow climber from ice column collapse in Utah". The Guardian. Retrieved 11 May 2023.
  4. ^ Issac, Sean; Banfield, Tim (19 November 2021). "Four Tips to Lead Ice With Confidence". Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2023.
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r Gadd, Will (2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 84–86. ISBN 978-0898867695. Ice Grades
  6. ^ a b c d Slawinski, Raphael (2002). "Degrees of Freedom: From dry tooling to figure fours, M-climbing in the mountains is redefining the vision of what's a climbable line". American Alpine Journal. 44 (76): 72–85. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h "New Ice Climb Gets Elusive WI7, Here's Some Grade History". Gripped Magazine. 15 April 2022. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Emmett talks about "Mission to Mars" and Helmcken Falls". Climbr. 24 April 2020. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  9. ^ "Legendary Climber Dr. Hamish MacInnes Dies". Gripped Magazine. 23 November 2020. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  10. ^ "The Moonflower Buttress (Bibler/Klewin)". MountainProject. 2023. Retrieved 8 September 2023. 5.8 (YDS) WI6 M7 A2 Steep Snow
  11. ^ a b "A Brief History". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  12. ^ a b c Buhay, Corey (10 March 2020). "The Strange Underworld of Competition Ice Climbing". Outside. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  13. ^ Buhay, Corey (14 March 2019). "Fish Out of Ice: A Beginner Takes on the Ice Climbing World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  14. ^ "UIAA Statement on Competition Ice Climbing". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. 30 August 2022. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  15. ^ "The Best Ice and Mixed Climbing Tools for 2023". Gripped Magazine. 8 December 2022. Retrieved 30 April 2023.
  16. ^ "Six Classic WI6 Canadian Rockies Ice Climbs". Gripped Magazine. 27 November 2022. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  17. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l "International Grade Comparison Chart". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  18. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l "International Grade Comparison Chart". American Alpine Journal. 2013. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  19. ^ Potter, Stephen (23 February 2023). "New Sends We Cared About: A WI 6+ Free Solo FA (and more)". Climbing. Retrieved 22 December 2023.
  20. ^ a b "Huge Canadian Waterfall Attracts Strong Climbers in Winter". Gripped Magazine. 11 January 2023. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  21. ^ "Hard New Climb at One of Canada's Highest Waterfalls". Gripped Magazine. 3 February 2023. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  22. ^ "Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites". PlanetMountain. 5 February 2016. Retrieved 2 May 2023.
  23. ^ "Jim Elzinga and Slipstream, a 35-Year Story". Gripped Magazine. 30 January 2014. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  24. ^ "Gimme Shelter in Canadian Rockies Climbed in 2019". Gripped Magazine. 1 April 2019. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  25. ^ "Legendary Rockies Riptide WI6+ Climbed in 2021". Gripped Magazine. 27 January 2021. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  26. ^ "10 of Canada's Hardest Ice Climbs at WI6+". Gripped Magazine. 16 February 2023. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  27. ^ "Repentance Super, the most coveted ice climb in Cogne". PlanetMountain.
  28. ^ McDonald, Dougald (7 November 2003). "Rites of Passage: Canadian WI 8 Repeated". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  29. ^ "Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner". PlanetMountain. 12 January 2010. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  30. ^ Lambert, Erik (22 January 2010). "Austrians Overcome X-rated Grade WI7 Ice". Alpinist. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  31. ^ McDonald, Dougald (12 January 2010). "New Austrian Ice Route Given WI7+". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  32. ^ a b c d Gray, Will (9 December 2021). "These are the 10 hardest climbs in the world". RedBull. Retrieved 21 December 2021.
  33. ^ "Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing". PlanetMountain. 10 January 2013. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  34. ^ a b Levy, Michael (19 February 2020). ""Mission to Mars" Is Tim Emmett and Klem Premrl's New WI 13 (What?!) at Helmcken Falls". Rock&Ice. Retrieved 21 December 2021.
  35. ^ "Guy Lacelle and His Epic Ice Solos on Trophy Wall". Gripped Magazine. 3 December 2020. Retrieved 8 May 2023.
  36. ^ "Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland". PlanetMountain. 23 January 2018.
  37. ^ Luthiger, Valentin (28 January 2018). "Dani Arnold Free Soloing a 1,000-Foot WI 7 Ice Climb". Retrieved 8 May 2023.
  38. ^ Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 28 September 2023.

Further reading edit

External links edit

  • UIAA Ice Climbing Word Tours, UIAA (2023)
  • VIDEO: Helmcken Falls Ice Routes, Gripped Magazine (2023)
  • Grading of Ice and Mixed Climbs, Ari Paulin Base Camp Database (2023)

climbing, this, article, about, activity, video, game, climber, climbing, discipline, that, involves, ascending, routes, consisting, frozen, water, ascend, route, climber, uses, specialist, equipment, particularly, double, axes, more, modern, tools, rigid, cra. This article is about the activity For the video game see Ice Climber Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of frozen water To ascend the route the ice climber uses specialist equipment particularly double ice axes or the more modern ice tools and rigid crampons To protect the route the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type and include seasonally frozen waterfalls high permanently frozen alpine couloirs and large hanging icicles or ice daggers From the 1970s ice climbing developed as a standalone skill from alpine climbing where ice climbing skills are used on ice and snow Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe WI7 is very rare and usually attributed to long routes of sheer vertical ice with serious risk issues i e unstable ice little protection and a risk of death Mixed climbing has pushed the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes by crossing bare rock overhangs and roofs using ice tools on bare rock is called dry tooling Since 2002 the UIAA have regulated competition ice climbing which is offered in a lead climbing format on an artificial bolted wall that employs dry tooling techniques e g stein pulls and figure four moves and in a speed climbing format that uses a standardized wall of real ice Since 2010 ice climbers at Helmcken Falls in Canada have been able to use the unique characteristics of the waterfall to create new severely overhanging bolted ice climbing routes that are graded up to WI13 and are possibly the hardest ice climbs in the world Contents 1 Description 1 1 Types of routes 2 History 3 Competition ice climbing 4 Equipment 4 1 Climbing 4 2 Protection 5 Grading 5 1 WI grades 5 2 Helmcken routes 5 3 M grades 5 4 D grades 6 Evolution of grade milestones 6 1 Free solo 7 In film 8 See also 9 References 9 1 Further reading 10 External linksDescription editIce climbing involves using specific pieces of specialized equipment namely ice tools and crampons to ascend routes consisting of frozen water ice or frozen snow fields As with rock climbing ice climbing can be done as free climbing i e with no additional artificial or mechanical device to aid progression outside of the ice tools and crampons and performed in pairs where the lead climber inserts climbing protection into the route as they ascend The second climber or belayer removes this temporary climbing protection as they climb the route after the lead climber has reached the top 1 2 In contrast to rock climbing the type of protective equipment used when leading ice climbing routes is mainly specialized steel ice screws 1 2 Ice screws are complex pieces of equipment to use properly and given that the condition of the ice can change materially over time including constantly breaking off 3 the seriousness of leading an ice climbing route is considered to be far greater than that of a traditional rock climbing route 1 2 For example while an intermediate ice climber could top rope a WI4 graded ice climb leading WI4 graded route is a far more serious undertaking 2 In contrast to rock climbing the leader must not fall is part of ice climbing 2 4 Ice climbing can also be done as free solo climbing which is an even riskier undertaking or done as top roping which is a much safer form of ice climbing and the format used for novices being introduced to the sport 5 Ice climbing was developed as part of the broader climbing discipline of alpine climbing where it is still a key component of the alpinist s skill set 6 Where the ice climbing route does not fully consist of ice and has elements of bare rock it is known as mixed climbing Where the route has no ice whatsoever but the climber still uses the ice tools and crampons it is known as dry tooling 1 2 Because mixed climbing and dry tooling routes can be fully bolted like sport climbing routes they have become popular as safer alternatives 5 Types of routes edit Types of ice climbing routes nbsp Central Pillar WI5 Weeping Wall Canada nbsp Chere Couloir WI4 M3 France nbsp Silent Memories WI6 M9 Italy nbsp Juvsoyla WI6 Norway Ice climbing can take on a broad range of climbing routes A common type of ice route is a frozen waterfall particularly one that cascades down a mountain face or a down mountain gully Ice climbing routes can also take the form of high alpine snow covered couloirs that are permanently frozen year round Giant icicles also known as ice daggers have also been climbed as ice routes and also as part of mixed routes although such icicles can often dangerously break off and have been a source of several ice climber fatalities 5 Ice climbing routes normally don t move beyond the sheer vertical for sustained distances due to the nature of ice i e ice rarely stays in an overhanging fashion for any length of time 7 This means that standard ice climbing grades broadly peak at WI6 7 i e WI7 being completely sheer vertical ice and with additional risk issues 7 In contrast extreme mixed climbing routes have been developed beyond the equivalent M8 grade i e crossing bare overhanging rock roofs to get to the vertical hanging icicle such as Jeff Lowe s groundbreaking Octopussy WI6 M8 in Vail Colorado 5 In Helmcken Falls in Canada an unusual situation arises where a perennially active waterfall keeps severely overhanging rock faces covered in thick ice thus creating overhanging ice routes Ice climbers have established bolted routes there is enough rock for the bolts that are graded above WI7 currently at WI13 as at 2023 in Helmcken 8 History editFor decades ice climbing and mixed climbing had been part of the broader alpine climbing skill set During the 1960s ambitious early ice climbers began to use pitons to climb harder ice routes but this was dangerous and very unstable The breakthrough came in the 1960s when Yvon Chouinard designed a new wooden handled ice axe with a curved serrated pick called the Climax This was followed in 1970 when Hamish MacInnes designed the all metal aluminum alloy ice axe that had a radically dropped pick called the Terrordactyl or Terror These two ice axes revolutionized ice climbing and eventually became merged into the modern all metal ice axe later the ice tool with its dropped pick but curved and serrated tip the now familiar banana shape 9 nbsp Moonflower Buttress WI6 M7 A2 Mount Hunter Alaska 10 Chouinard and McInnes ice axes would lead to an explosion of interest in climbing on frozen waterfalls in the North American Rockies and in the European Alps Ice climber and climbing author Raphael Slawinski wrote in the American Alpine Journal By the early 1980s ice climbing from being merely one of the techniques in the alpinist s arsenal had evolved into a full blown technical art The skills gained on waterfalls also gave rise to a whole new generation of alpine climbs Slipstream WI4 1979 in the Canadian Rockies blurred the distinction between waterfall ice and alpine climbing the Moonflower Buttress WI6 M7 A2 1983 in the Alaska Range applied the highest levels of ice climbing skill to a major alpine first ascent and the list goes on Waterfall ice climbing though initially pursued for its own sake ended up revolutionizing alpine climbing 6 By the end of the 1980s ice climbers had effectively reached the limits of what could be climbed at grade WI6 7 ultimately the inherent tendency of the medium to hang in a vertical fashion limited the possibilities for development 7 It was mixed climbing that began to drive development in ice climbing as pioneers like Jeff Lowe dry tooled bare rock overhangs and roofs to get to more radical ice features such as hanging icicles the culmination of which was Lowe s historic ascent of Octopussy WI6 M8 in Vail in 1994 which lead to the birth of modern mixed climbing 6 It would not be until 2010 when Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that ice climbing development would take a leap forward in technical development Helmcken Fall s unique characteristics provided severely overhanging iced routes and in the next decade grades jumped to WI13 with Mission to Mars in 2020 Emmett and Gadd consider Helmcken to be a potential Yosemite of ice climbing 8 Competition ice climbing edit2016 Ice Climbing World Cup nbsp Lead ice climbing nbsp Speed ice climbing The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation UIAA has organized and regulated the sport of competition ice climbing since 2002 when the very first Ice World Cup IWC competition took place under the new UIAA rules and codes 11 Amongst others the UIAA runs two main competition ice climbing events the annual Ice Climbing World Cup which is run as a series of events in the year and the bi annual Ice Climbing World Championships a single once off competition 11 12 Most of the IWC lead climbing routes are held on bolted dry artificial surfaces and thus employ dry tooling techniques e g stein pulls and figure four moves 12 In contrast the IWC speed climbing routes are on a standardized 40 50 ft 12 15 m wall of ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete as per speed rock climbing 12 13 Over the years the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools so they cannot be used as aid and increased controls on the use of heel spurs while climbing to counter their use for resting 14 Equipment editSee also Rock climbing equipment Climbing edit nbsp Advanced ergo ice tool 15 nbsp Horizontal l Vertical r cramponIce axes or the more modern ice tools Modern ice climbing requires double ice axes or ergo ice tools a key decision is whether it uses a leash or not Competition ice climbing has prohibited leashes as they can be used for aid and most extreme mixed climbing tends not to use leashes However the lack of a leash means that the shock of any sudden blowout of the feet can lead to an immediate fall 2 Crampons Ice climbers often use mono point crampons instead of the more typical dual point crampons used by alpine climbers to maintain greater control and cutting accuracy Some favor the front points to be vertical i e like a mini ice tool which increases cutting power but is less table and can blowout without warning others use the traditional horizontal i e flat like an adze front points 2 Ice boots Ice climbers can use the shell or plastic rigid mountaineering boots used by alpine climbers to which crampons are attached Advanced mixed climbers and competition ice climbers use fruit boots which are light boots with crampons integrated into the sole In addition fruit boots can add heel spurs which are used in mixed climbing for overhangs 2 Protection edit nbsp Ice screwWhere ice climbing is done as lead climbing i e not top roping the key tool for protection is the ice screw a hollow metal threaded steel tube with cutting teeth on its base and a hanger eye on the opposite end It is screwed into the ice and its stability is dependent both on the angle and quality of its placement and the soundness of the ice 1 2 Some ice climbs such as in Helmcken Falls see below and also mixed and dry tooling routes have enough rock that enables them to be bolted like sport climbs avoiding the need for screws 2 As well as ice screws the ice itself can be used for protection with the most common technique being the Abalakov thread or V thread A thread This consists of two intersecting tunnels bored into the ice using ice screws that form a V shaped tunnel A sling is threaded through this tunnel and tied into a loop The climbing rope is passed through this sling which remains left behind after use Because of the difficulty in construction the common use of V threads is as anchor points for abseiling or belaying and not for lead climbing 2 Grading editWI grades edit nbsp Kristoffer Szilas on Pilsner Pillar Grade WI6 Mt Dennis Canada 16 nbsp Climber on Dryer Hose Grade WI3 Munising MichiganIce climbing uses a WI for water ice grading system 5 WI grades broadly equate to the mixed climbing M grades from WI1 up to WI6 but after M6 mixed climbs become overhanging which ice does not 5 WI grades try to take some account of the difficulty of placing protection on the route but as with M grades are more focused on the technical and physical challenge of the route and are thus more akin to the French and US sport climbing grades although as with the US system the R X suffix is used for danger 5 The WI grade is for hard ice steep snow slopes which are encountered frequently on alpine climbing routes are not explicitly graded but instead their steepest angle approximate figure or a range is quoted e g 60 70 degree slope 17 18 WI grade is for seasonal hard ice an AI prefix is used instead for alpine ice which is year round and usually firmer more stable making AI grade routes slightly easier than WI routes 17 18 In Canada the WI prefix is sometimes dropped from the grade and for longer multi pitch ice routes a commitment grade a Roman numeral from I to VII is also added to reflect the seriousness of the overall undertaking e g the grade of a Canadian ice route can appear as III 5 5 The following WI grades and descriptions are provided by the American Alpine Club republished in 2013 who note Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving The following descriptions approximate the average systems 17 18 Additional comment is from Will Gadd 5 WI1 Low angle no ice tools are required 17 18 Like scrambling with 10 point crampons up a frozen river does not require double ice axes or front pointing skills 5 WI2 Consistent 60º ice with possible bulges good protection 17 18 Beginner routes can if needed be climbed with one ice axe Will Gadd notes that WI2 has more accidents than any other grade 5 WI3 Sustained 70º with possible long bulges of 80º 90º reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws 17 18 Will Gadd calls it proper technical ice climbing needing a rope and double ice axes 5 WI4 Continuous 80º ice fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests 17 18 According to Gadd Strong novices can top rope WI4 but leading WI4 is serious 5 WI5 Long and strenuous with a rope length of 85º 90º ice offering few good rests or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with protection that s difficult to place 17 18 WI6 A full rope length of near 90º ice with no rests or a shorter pitch more tenuous than WI5 Highly technical 17 18 According to Gadd the best climbers will find an occasional reason to retreat at WI6 5 WI7 As per WI6 above but on thin poorly bonded ice or long overhanging poorly adhered columns Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality 17 18 Gadd calls WI7 Semi mythical and with a high publicity co efficient that often becomes a WI6 on repeat 5 7 In 2023 Climbing magazine wrote that other leading Canadian ice climbers such as Quentin Roberts and Marc Andre Leclerc had also publicly stated that pure WI7 grades could exist in nature 19 WI8 Under discussion 17 18 According to Gadd only claimed a few times and either bad gear and bad ice or an overhanging glacial serac that is like an M8 in physicality 5 Helmcken routes edit nbsp Angelika Rainer it high up on the severely overhanging Clash of Titans WI10 Helmcken Falls In 2010 ice climbers Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that had unique characteristics Unlike WI7 ice routes that rarely overhang these routes were significantly overhanging like extreme M graded routes This was due to the intense spray from the active waterfall which covered the overhanging routes in ice so that there was little dry tooling with all the movements on hard ice 8 As the routes were all bolted like M grade climbs a metal detector is used to find the bolts 20 Emmett and Gadd re established the link with M grades to guide on the WI grade The result was a series of new WI graded routes that laid claim to being the new world s hardest ice climbing routes starting with Spray On at WI10 in 2010 Wolverine at WI11 in 2011 Interstellar Spice at WI12 in 2016 and by 2020 reached WI13 with Mission to Mars 8 There has been debate in the ice climbing world around whether Helmcken WI routes are really M grade climbs 8 In 2023 British ice climber Neil Gresham said that Helmcken routes are definitely harder than WI7 routes and that a confident M climber will take time to adjust to the Helmcken WI equivalent 21 Emmett has described Helmcken as the ice climbing equivalent of Yosemite 8 and it has attracted some of the world s best ice climbers 20 M grades edit Main article Mixed climbing M grades nbsp Pak Hi jong cs on Tequila Stuntman Grade M7 WI6 in Chamonix FranceWhen ice climbing is done as mixed climbing a separate M grading grading system is used which goes from M1 M2 M3 M13 M14 etc 5 17 18 D grades edit Main article Dry tooling D grades When ice climbing is done as dry tooling which is ice climbing on bare rock the M grade is replaced by a D prefix 5 22 Evolution of grade milestones editSee also Mixed climbing Evolution of grade milestones and List of grade milestones in rock climbing nbsp Repentance Super WI5 6 Val di Cogne ItalyThe following ice climbs are particularly notable in the evolution of ice climbing grade milestones and ice climbing standards from being a skill used by alpine climbing to a standalone sport in its own right 6 1979 Slipstream WI4 Canadian Rockies First ascent was in 1979 by Jim Elzinga and John Lauchlan considered an important early example of the blurring between alpine climbing and pure ice climbing and the first major alpine serac waterfall route in the Rockies 23 1983 Gimme Shelter WI6 Canadian Rockies First ascent was in 1983 by Kevin Doyle and Tim Friesen considered an early WI7 contender in ice climbing and the hardest ice route at the time 7 grade since softened to WI6 24 1987 Riptide WI6 7 Canadian Rockies First ascent was in 1987 by Larry Ostrander and Jeff Marshall considered an early WI7 contender in ice climbing and the hardest ice route at the time 7 grade since softened to WI6 25 26 1988 Reality Bath WI7 X Canadian Rockies First ascent was in 1988 by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff never been repeated and described by Albi Sole in the Canadian Rockies guide book as so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined possibly first ever WI7 7 1989 Repentance Super WI5 6 Val di Cogne Italy First ascent was in 1989 by a non local team of Francois Damilano fr Gian Carlo Grassi it and Fulvio Conta considered the hardest ice climb in Europe at the time and a breakthrough in standards mostly bolted now and grade softened 27 2002 Rites of Passage WI7 Mount Kitchener Canadian Rockies First ascent was in 2002 by Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet initially graded WI8 but considered one of the few routes that are truly above WI7 pre Helmcken Falls and the hardest route in the world at the time 7 28 2010 Centrecourt WI7 Gasteinertal Austria First ascent was in 2010 by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner considered one of the hardest routes in the world at the time and another of the few ice climbing routes at WI7 29 30 31 The grade milestones at Helmcken Falls are as follows 32 2010 Spray On WI10 First ascent by Tim Emmett and Will Gadd at Helmcken Falls first ever WI10 in ice climbing bolted 8 32 2011 Wolverine W11 First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls first ever WI11 in ice climbing bolted 8 32 33 2016 Interstellar Spice W12 First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls first ever WI12 in ice climbing bolted 8 32 34 2020 Mission to Mars W13 First ascent by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl at Helmcken Falls first ever WI13 in ice climbing bolted 8 34 Free solo edit A number of ice climbers have set new grade milestones in a free solo climbing style i e no protection such as ice screws 1997 Sea of Vapours WI6 Canadian Rockies Free solo in 1997 by Guy Lacelle fr Sea of Vapours was considered WI7 at the time 35 2017 Beta Block Super WI7 Breitwangfluh Switzerland Free solo in 2017 by Dani Arnold 36 37 In film editA number of notable climbing films have been made that feature ice climbing including 38 The Alpinist a 2021 documentary film about the late Canadian alpinist Marc Andre Leclerc featuring his free solo ascent of several ice routes Touching the Void a 2003 docudrama about a famous alpine climbing rescue in the Peruvian AndesSee also edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ice climbing Alpine climbing Mixed climbing Dry toolingReferences edit a b c d e Lowe Jeff 1996 Ice World Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing Seattle The Mountaineers a b c d e f g h i j k l Gadd Will 2003 Ice amp Mixed Climbing Modern Technique 1st ed Mountaineers Books pp 14 35 ISBN 978 0898867695 Equipment Yang Maya 6 April 2023 Woman dies saving fellow climber from ice column collapse in Utah The Guardian Retrieved 11 May 2023 Issac Sean Banfield Tim 19 November 2021 Four Tips to Lead Ice With Confidence Climbing Retrieved 10 May 2023 a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r Gadd Will 2003 Ice amp Mixed Climbing Modern Technique 1st ed Mountaineers Books pp 84 86 ISBN 978 0898867695 Ice Grades a b c d Slawinski Raphael 2002 Degrees of Freedom From dry tooling to figure fours M climbing in the mountains is redefining the vision of what s a climbable line American Alpine Journal 44 76 72 85 Retrieved 1 May 2023 a b c d e f g h New Ice Climb Gets Elusive WI7 Here s Some Grade History Gripped Magazine 15 April 2022 Retrieved 5 May 2023 a b c d e f g h i j Emmett talks about Mission to Mars and Helmcken Falls Climbr 24 April 2020 Retrieved 5 May 2023 Legendary Climber Dr Hamish MacInnes Dies Gripped Magazine 23 November 2020 Retrieved 6 May 2023 The Moonflower Buttress Bibler Klewin MountainProject 2023 Retrieved 8 September 2023 5 8 YDS WI6 M7 A2 Steep Snow a b A Brief History International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Retrieved 6 May 2023 a b c Buhay Corey 10 March 2020 The Strange Underworld of Competition Ice Climbing Outside Retrieved 5 May 2023 Buhay Corey 14 March 2019 Fish Out of Ice A Beginner Takes on the Ice Climbing World Cup Climbing Retrieved 6 May 2023 UIAA Statement on Competition Ice Climbing International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation 30 August 2022 Retrieved 5 May 2023 The Best Ice and Mixed Climbing Tools for 2023 Gripped Magazine 8 December 2022 Retrieved 30 April 2023 Six Classic WI6 Canadian Rockies Ice Climbs Gripped Magazine 27 November 2022 Retrieved 5 May 2023 a b c d e f g h i j k l International Grade Comparison Chart Alpinist Retrieved 1 May 2023 a b c d e f g h i j k l International Grade Comparison Chart American Alpine Journal 2013 Retrieved 1 May 2023 Potter Stephen 23 February 2023 New Sends We Cared About A WI 6 Free Solo FA and more Climbing Retrieved 22 December 2023 a b Huge Canadian Waterfall Attracts Strong Climbers in Winter Gripped Magazine 11 January 2023 Retrieved 5 May 2023 Hard New Climb at One of Canada s Highest Waterfalls Gripped Magazine 3 February 2023 Retrieved 5 May 2023 Tom Ballard claims world s first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites PlanetMountain 5 February 2016 Retrieved 2 May 2023 Jim Elzinga and Slipstream a 35 Year Story Gripped Magazine 30 January 2014 Retrieved 6 May 2023 Gimme Shelter in Canadian Rockies Climbed in 2019 Gripped Magazine 1 April 2019 Retrieved 6 May 2023 Legendary Rockies Riptide WI6 Climbed in 2021 Gripped Magazine 27 January 2021 Retrieved 6 May 2023 10 of Canada s Hardest Ice Climbs at WI6 Gripped Magazine 16 February 2023 Retrieved 6 May 2023 Repentance Super the most coveted ice climb in Cogne PlanetMountain McDonald Dougald 7 November 2003 Rites of Passage Canadian WI 8 Repeated Climbing Retrieved 6 May 2023 Centercourt WI7 new extreme ice climb in Austria s Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner PlanetMountain 12 January 2010 Retrieved 6 May 2023 Lambert Erik 22 January 2010 Austrians Overcome X rated Grade WI7 Ice Alpinist Retrieved 6 May 2023 McDonald Dougald 12 January 2010 New Austrian Ice Route Given WI7 Climbing Retrieved 6 May 2023 a b c d Gray Will 9 December 2021 These are the 10 hardest climbs in the world RedBull Retrieved 21 December 2021 Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing PlanetMountain 10 January 2013 Retrieved 5 May 2023 a b Levy Michael 19 February 2020 Mission to Mars Is Tim Emmett and Klem Premrl s New WI 13 What at Helmcken Falls Rock amp Ice Retrieved 21 December 2021 Guy Lacelle and His Epic Ice Solos on Trophy Wall Gripped Magazine 3 December 2020 Retrieved 8 May 2023 Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland PlanetMountain 23 January 2018 Luthiger Valentin 28 January 2018 Dani Arnold Free Soloing a 1 000 Foot WI 7 Ice Climb Retrieved 8 May 2023 Bisharat Andrew 6 September 2022 The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time Outside Retrieved 28 September 2023 Further reading edit Lowe Jeff 1996 Ice World Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing 1st ed Mountaineers Books ISBN 978 0898864465 Gadd Will 2003 Ice amp Mixed Climbing Modern Technique 1st ed Mountaineers Books ISBN 978 0898867695 Gadd Will 2021 Ice amp Mixed Climbing Improve Technique Safety and Performance 2nd ed Mountaineers Books ISBN 978 1680511260 Banfield Tim Isaac Sean 2021 How to Ice Climb 2nd ed Falcon Guides ISBN 978 0762782772 External links edit nbsp Look up ice climbing in Wiktionary the free dictionary UIAA Ice Climbing Word Tours UIAA 2023 VIDEO Helmcken Falls Ice Routes Gripped Magazine 2023 Grading of Ice and Mixed Climbs Ari Paulin Base Camp Database 2023 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Ice climbing amp oldid 1210678821 Equipment, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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