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Shell cordovan

Shell cordovan, cordovan, or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an equine leather made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse.[1] The leather derives its name from the city of Cordoba, Spain, where it was first produced by the Visigoths in the seventh century,[2][dubious ] and later also by the Moors.[3][dubious ] It is a difficult and expensive leather to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a finger tab. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin. [4]

Shell cordovan oxford Brogue

Horween Leather Company, the oldest tannery in the United States, is known for its production of shell cordovan and was called the "Cordovan capital of the world" by the Chicago Tribune.[5][6]

Production edit

After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the tail 18 inches forward on the backbone. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term galoshes, meaning the vamps or boot-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.[7]

After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication of gloves, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or hair side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable leather used mostly in the manufacture of shoes. [7] Other uses include watch straps and the manufacture of finger protection tabs for archery—where it is prized for its toughness, longevity, and protective qualities.

References edit

  1. ^ Baldwin, William Henry (1929). The Shopping Book. The Macmillan company. p. 223.
  2. ^ Constable, Olivia Remie (1994). Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain. Cambridge University Press.
  3. ^ Watt, Alexander (1906). Leather Manufacture. Van Nostrand. pp. 228.
  4. ^ "All About Shell Cordovan - An Interview With Horween Leather Co. - BestLeather.org". bestleather.org. 4 June 2013. Retrieved 2016-12-17.
  5. ^ Barbara Rolek (October 27, 2003). "Horween's leather bound by tradition". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved March 27, 2013.
  6. ^ Stephanie Arena (December 8, 1991). "Leather Land: At Horween Tannery, Cordovan has Been King for 86 Years". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved March 26, 2013.
  7. ^ a b Encyclopædia Britannica (1905). Encyclopædia Britannica. The Werner Company. p. 284.

External links edit

  • Shell cordovan making

shell, cordovan, cordwain, redirects, here, occupation, cordwainer, cordovan, cordwain, type, tanned, fibrous, connective, tissue, commonly, used, high, shoemaking, cordovan, equine, leather, made, from, fibrous, flat, connective, tissue, shell, beneath, hide,. Cordwain redirects here For the occupation see Cordwainer Shell cordovan cordovan or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high end shoemaking Cordovan is an equine leather made from the fibrous flat connective tissue or shell beneath the hide on the rump of the horse 1 The leather derives its name from the city of Cordoba Spain where it was first produced by the Visigoths in the seventh century 2 dubious discuss and later also by the Moors 3 dubious discuss It is a difficult and expensive leather to make and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to hone razors in barber shops More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes wallets and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability It is also used in archery to protect the fingers It is smooth and durable ideal for a finger tab Shell cordovan has a unique non creasing characteristic Because it is made of connective tissue it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin 4 Shell cordovan oxford BrogueHorween Leather Company the oldest tannery in the United States is known for its production of shell cordovan and was called the Cordovan capital of the world by the Chicago Tribune 5 6 Production editAfter removal from the horse the hide is measured from the root of the tail 18 inches forward on the backbone The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a front the forward part and the butt The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts but is especially used in connection with the term galoshes meaning the vamps or boot fronts cut from the shell of the butt 7 After being tanned leather from the front is typically used in the fabrication of gloves or blackened to be used in the tops of shoes The butt after tanning is passed through a splitting machine which removes the grain or hair side revealing what is termed the shell The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable leather used mostly in the manufacture of shoes 7 Other uses include watch straps and the manufacture of finger protection tabs for archery where it is prized for its toughness longevity and protective qualities References edit Baldwin William Henry 1929 The Shopping Book The Macmillan company p 223 Constable Olivia Remie 1994 Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain Cambridge University Press Watt Alexander 1906 Leather Manufacture Van Nostrand pp 228 All About Shell Cordovan An Interview With Horween Leather Co BestLeather org bestleather org 4 June 2013 Retrieved 2016 12 17 Barbara Rolek October 27 2003 Horween s leather bound by tradition Chicago Tribune Retrieved March 27 2013 Stephanie Arena December 8 1991 Leather Land At Horween Tannery Cordovan has Been King for 86 Years Chicago Tribune Retrieved March 26 2013 a b Encyclopaedia Britannica 1905 Encyclopaedia Britannica The Werner Company p 284 External links editShell cordovan making Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Shell cordovan amp oldid 1196457938, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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