High friction rope positionLow friction rope position
This device utilizes a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with the proper technique to be used as a belay device or for rappelling. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber's descent, or one's own descent when rappelling.
Prosedit
Figure-eights offer a smooth controlled descent when rappelling and lowering climbers.[1] They can be used with nearly any diameter climbing rope and don't get as hot as other friction devices because of their ability to dissipate heat efficiently.[2] The figure eight can also be used with a doubled rope, which is also possible with a rack but not a bobbin.
Consedit
The figure-eight cannot be removed from the rope without detaching the device from the harness, and so could be accidentally dropped, particularly when tackling a rebelay. They also twist the rope which is a particular problem where a rebelay prevents the rope from untwisting. They do not provide a convenient means to temporarily lock the descent at a rebelay.
Referencesedit
^Cox, Steven M. and Kris Fulsaas, ed., ed. (2003-09). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN0-89886-828-9.
^"Belay Devices: How to Choose". Rei.com. 2013-06-20. Retrieved 2013-10-24.
Bibliographyedit
Cox, Steven M. and Kris Fulsaas, ed., ed. (2003–09). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN0-89886-828-9.
External linksedit
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Figure eight.
Video Clip on Using a Figure 8 Belay Device
Rei.com How to Choose a Belay Device
Mountainproject.com
January 01, 1970
figure, climbing, figure, belay, device, piece, metal, usually, aluminum, alloy, shape, with, large, small, figure, eight, descender, contents, usage, pros, cons, references, bibliography, external, linksusage, edit, nbsp, high, friction, rope, position, nbsp,. The figure 8 belay device is a piece of metal usually an aluminum alloy in the shape of an 8 with one large end and one small end A figure eight descender Contents 1 Usage 2 Pros 3 Cons 4 References 5 Bibliography 6 External linksUsage edit nbsp High friction rope position nbsp Low friction rope position This device utilizes a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with the proper technique to be used as a belay device or for rappelling A figure 8 sometimes just referred to as an 8 is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber s descent or one s own descent when rappelling Pros editFigure eights offer a smooth controlled descent when rappelling and lowering climbers 1 They can be used with nearly any diameter climbing rope and don t get as hot as other friction devices because of their ability to dissipate heat efficiently 2 The figure eight can also be used with a doubled rope which is also possible with a rack but not a bobbin Cons editThe figure eight cannot be removed from the rope without detaching the device from the harness and so could be accidentally dropped particularly when tackling a rebelay They also twist the rope which is a particular problem where a rebelay prevents the rope from untwisting They do not provide a convenient means to temporarily lock the descent at a rebelay References edit Cox Steven M and Kris Fulsaas ed ed 2003 09 Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills 7 ed Seattle The Mountaineers ISBN 0 89886 828 9 Belay Devices How to Choose Rei com 2013 06 20 Retrieved 2013 10 24 Bibliography editCox Steven M and Kris Fulsaas ed ed 2003 09 Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills 7 ed Seattle The Mountaineers ISBN 0 89886 828 9 External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Figure eight Video Clip on Using a Figure 8 Belay Device Rei com How to Choose a Belay Device Mountainproject com Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Figure 8 climbing amp oldid 1184280158, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
