Damask with floral sprigs, Italy, Baroque, 1600–1650, silk two-tone damask
The production of damask was one of the five basic weaving techniques—the others being tabby, twill, lampas, and tapestry—of the Byzantine and Middle Eastern weaving centres of the early Middle Ages.[3] In daily nomadic life this form of weaving was generally employed by women, in the course of such occupations as carpet-making. Women would collect the raw material from pasture animals and dyes from local flora such as berries, insects, or grasses. Each woman would create a specialized pattern sequence and use of color that was customary to her ethnic group and even herself. These techniques would often be handed down from mother to daughter as well.[4]
In China, draw looms with a large number of heddles were developed to weave damasks with very complicated patterns.[5] The Chinese may have produced damasks as early as the Tang dynasty (618–907).[6] Damasks derive their name from the city of Damascus—in that period a large city active both in trading (as part of the silk road) and in manufacture.[7] Damasks became scarce after the 9th century outside Islamic Spain, but were revived in some places in the 13th century.[3]
The word damask first appeared in records in a Western European language in the mid-14th century in French.[8] By the 14th century, damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy. From the 14th to 16th century, most damasks were woven in one colour with a glossy warp-faced satin pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but weavers also produced wool and linen damasks.[2]
In the 19th century, the invention of the Jacquard loom which was automated with a system of punched cards, made weaving damask faster and cheaper.[5]
Modern usageedit
Damask as a tablecloth. Water droplet is lying on the surface due to low absorption of damask.
Modern damasks are woven on computerized Jacquard looms.[1] Damask weaves are commonly produced in monochromatic (single-colour) weaves in silk, linen or synthetic fibres such as rayon and feature patterns of flowers, fruit and other designs. The long floats of satin-woven warp and weft threads cause soft highlights on the fabric which reflect light differently according to the position of the observer. Damask weaves appear most commonly in table linens and furnishing fabrics, but they are also used for clothing.[5] The damask weave is used extensively throughout the fashion industry due to its versatility and high-quality finish. Damask is usually used for mid-to-high-quality garments, meaning the label tends to have a higher definition and a more “expensive” look.
^ abKadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ISBN0-13-118769-4, p. 251
^ abMonnas, Lisa. Merchants, Princes and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300–1550. New Haven, Yale University Press, 2008, pp. 295–299
^ abJenkins, David T., ed.: The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003, ISBN0-521-34107-8, p. 343.
damask, other, uses, disambiguation, arabic, دمشق, reversible, patterned, fabric, silk, wool, linen, cotton, synthetic, fibers, with, pattern, formed, weaving, woven, with, warp, yarn, weft, yarn, usually, with, pattern, warp, faced, satin, weave, ground, weft. For other uses see Damask disambiguation Damask ˈ d ae m e s k Arabic دمشق is a reversible patterned fabric of silk wool linen cotton or synthetic fibers with a pattern formed by weaving Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn usually with the pattern in warp faced satin weave and the ground in weft faced or sateen weave Twill damasks include a twill woven ground or pattern 1 2 Italian silk polychrome damasks 14th centuryThis article is about a type of fabric For the capital of Syria see Damascus Contents 1 History 2 Modern usage 3 See also 4 ReferencesHistory edit nbsp Damask with floral sprigs Italy Baroque 1600 1650 silk two tone damaskThe production of damask was one of the five basic weaving techniques the others being tabby twill lampas and tapestry of the Byzantine and Middle Eastern weaving centres of the early Middle Ages 3 In daily nomadic life this form of weaving was generally employed by women in the course of such occupations as carpet making Women would collect the raw material from pasture animals and dyes from local flora such as berries insects or grasses Each woman would create a specialized pattern sequence and use of color that was customary to her ethnic group and even herself These techniques would often be handed down from mother to daughter as well 4 In China draw looms with a large number of heddles were developed to weave damasks with very complicated patterns 5 The Chinese may have produced damasks as early as the Tang dynasty 618 907 6 Damasks derive their name from the city of Damascus in that period a large city active both in trading as part of the silk road and in manufacture 7 Damasks became scarce after the 9th century outside Islamic Spain but were revived in some places in the 13th century 3 The word damask first appeared in records in a Western European language in the mid 14th century in French 8 By the 14th century damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy From the 14th to 16th century most damasks were woven in one colour with a glossy warp faced satin pattern against a duller ground Two colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk but weavers also produced wool and linen damasks 2 In the 19th century the invention of the Jacquard loom which was automated with a system of punched cards made weaving damask faster and cheaper 5 Modern usage edit nbsp Damask as a tablecloth Water droplet is lying on the surface due to low absorption of damask Modern damasks are woven on computerized Jacquard looms 1 Damask weaves are commonly produced in monochromatic single colour weaves in silk linen or synthetic fibres such as rayon and feature patterns of flowers fruit and other designs The long floats of satin woven warp and weft threads cause soft highlights on the fabric which reflect light differently according to the position of the observer Damask weaves appear most commonly in table linens and furnishing fabrics but they are also used for clothing 5 The damask weave is used extensively throughout the fashion industry due to its versatility and high quality finish Damask is usually used for mid to high quality garments meaning the label tends to have a higher definition and a more expensive look See also editDiapering damask patterns in heraldry References edit a b Kadolph Sara J ed Textiles 10th edition Pearson Prentice Hall 2007 ISBN 0 13 118769 4 p 251 a b Monnas Lisa Merchants Princes and Painters Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300 1550 New Haven Yale University Press 2008 pp 295 299 a b Jenkins David T ed The Cambridge History of Western Textiles Cambridge UK Cambridge University Press 2003 ISBN 0 521 34107 8 p 343 Mozzati Luca 2019 Islamic Art Architecture Painting Calligraphy Ceramics Glass Carpets Prestel p 61 ISBN 978 3 7913 8566 2 a b c Gillow John 1999 World Textiles A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques Thames amp Hudson p 82 ISBN 0 500 28247 1 A World of Looms Weaving Technology and Textile Arts in China and Beyond China National Silk Museum Retrieved 11 September 2020 What is Damask Fabric 9 February 2012 Period Home and Garden accessed 2 March 2021 Damas etymology in French www cnrtl fr accessed 2 March 2021 nbsp Wikisource has the text of the 1911 Encyclopaedia Britannica article Damask nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Damask Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Damask amp oldid 1170869690, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
