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Claudia Brush Kidwell

January 01, 1970

Claudia Brush Kidwell (born January 7, 1941) is a costume historian and former curator at the Smithsonian Institution at the National Museum of American History in the Division of Social History, primarily in the Costume Collection. She served as the first and only female acting director at the Museum of History and Technology in 1979.

Education edit

Claudia Brush Kidwell received her bachelor's degree at University of Maryland in 1962 and her master's degree in 1964 from Pennsylvania State University in Home Economics and Clothing and Textiles.

Professional career edit

Between her junior and senior year at the University of Maryland, Kidwell worked as an intern in the Division of Textiles at the Museum of History and Technology[1] in 1961. After completing her undergraduate and graduate studies, Kidwell returned to the Smithsonian as assistant curator in the Section of Costume[2] in 1964. She advanced to curator after three years,[3] serving as liaison to her predecessor, Anne Wood Murray, where her primary research focused on 18th- and 19th-century women's clothing. Kidwell published her research on American women's bathing suits and costume in 1968 and continued her research on short gowns[4] and the McDowell Garment Drafting Machine[5] until plans for the Bicentennial of the American Revolution anniversary exhibition began in the early 1970s.

The inaugural exhibition for the bicentennial was curated by Kidwell in an exhibit called Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. The exhibit opened in 1974 and received positive reviews in its thematic interpretation of clothing and fashion appearance's influence on cultural identity, a new strategy in the Section of Costume.[6] Her research on this particular exhibit not only inspired visitors but her own initiative to research gender perspectives in costume and appearance, which would surface in her later exhibits and Smithsonian activities.[7]

Establishment of the Division of Costume edit

Kidwell initiated a proposal for the formal separation of the former Division of Costume and Furnishings in 1977. Kidwell proposed an independent Division of Costume in a memorandum addressed to then assistant director, Silvio Bedini:

"Clothes made the man," observed Mark Twain. "Naked people have little or no influence in society."

I use this quote to illustrate in a different way the obvious but frequently overlooked fact that clothing is fundamental to the human experience. Remember, the first thing that Adam and Eve did after eating an apple was to find fig leaves!

- Subject: Costume-to be a Division or not to be a Division? Memo to Silvio Bedini from Claudia Kidwell, March 31, 1977[8]

The Division of Costume was formally established the following year in 1978[9] upon Kidwell's proposal. The successful proposal subsequently led to her promotion to curator and supervisor in the new Division of Costume from 1978 to 1981.[10] She served as chairman to the Department of Cultural History from 1978 to 1981, after which she returned to her position as curator/supervisor in the Division of Costume until 1995. She would come to serve as the first and only female acting director of the Museum of History and Technology in the fall of 1979.[11]

Kidwell went on to curate a number of exhibits, of which Getting Dressed: Fashionable Appearance, 1750–1800 (1985–1987), Men and Women: A History of Costume, Gender, and Power (1989–1991), and Looking American (1994 as a part of The Smithsonian's America) held particular attention in their successful redefinition of the American identity through clothing and appearance.

In 1995, Kidwell became curator of the Division of Social History in the Costume Collection.

Other professional work edit

Kidwell's initial research primarily focused on 18th- and 19th-century women's clothing, influencing her innovative research on short gowns.[12] Her trajectory changed course as her research turned towards the changing gender conventions in and throughout fashion history. Her primary work aimed to study the importance of fashionable appearance for the identification of social group, changing fashions and philosophies, and the relationship between prescribed posture and gestures and the layers of clothing as they were put on.[13] Kidwell's main priority in her research was to "talk about behavior" as opposed to solely clothes, denoting an emphasis on the influence of fashion on not only gender roles but consequently identity and culture.[14]

In 1990, Kidwell created an initiative, catalyzed by her own interest in gender perspectives, called the Gender Issues Action Group (GIAG).[15] This organization originated within the Smithsonian Institution and has since moved on to work with other Smithsonian organizations to formally integrate ethnicities and identities formerly underrepresented at the Smithsonian Institution.

Kidwell formally changed the Division of Costume's mission statement in 1991 to shift the collecting focus from that of assembling complete collections of objects to that of collecting material to provide insights into what it had meant to be an American.[16] This influenced a major change in the questions asked about what is included in a collection of costume.

Kidwell's legacy on material culture's influence and significance as well as her determination to change conservative views of identity at the Smithsonian has proven pivotal in the Smithsonian Institution's reimagining of history and museum culture.

Publications edit

  • "Conformity and Deindividuation: Studies in Conflict and Restraint". Research Bulletin. 44. Pennsylvania State University Department of Psychology. 1964.
  • "Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States" (PDF). U.S. National Museum Bulletin. 250. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press. 1968.
  • Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. With Margaret C. Christman. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press. 1974.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  • "Paper Patterns". 1876: A Centennial Exhibition. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press. 1976.
  • "Rags, Riches, and In-Between". Historic Preservation. 28: 73–87. 1976.
  • Kidwell, Claudia (1977-01-01). "Apparel for Ballooning with speculations on more commonplace garb". Costume. 11 (1): 73–87. doi:10.1179/cos.1977.11.1.73. ISSN 0590-8876.
  • Kidwell, Claudia (1978). "Short Gowns". Dress. 4 (1): 30–65. doi:10.1179/036121178805298838. ISSN 0361-2112.
  • "Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers' Drafting Systems in the United States". Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology (42): 163. 1979. doi:10.5479/si.00810258.42.1.
  • Getting Dressed: Fashionable Appearance, 1750–1800. Division of Costume, NMAH. 1985.
  • Steele, Valerie, ed. (1989). Men and Women: Dressing the Part. With Valerie Steele. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press.

Notes edit

  1. ^ The Museum of History and Technology opened in 1964 and was formally renamed the National Museum of American History in 1980. "National Museum of American History". Smithsonian Institution Archives. 2011-04-14. Retrieved 2023-10-16.
  2. ^ The section of costume became a formal division of costume at the Smithsonian Institution in 1977. SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 1 "Costume Collection to be a Division- Memo Departmental re-organization 9 May 1977".
  3. ^ In 1969, the Section of Costume was renamed the Division of Costume and Furnishings although it did not have official autonomy as the sole costume collection. The Division of Political History held responsibility with the Division of Costume and Furnishings. For additional details on the history of the Section under the Division of Political History, see SIA Record Unit 252.
  4. ^ Kidwell, Claudia (1978). "Short Gowns". Dress. 4 (1): 30–65. doi:10.1179/036121178805298838. ISSN 0361-2112.
  5. ^ Kidwell, Claudia B. (1979). "Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers' Drafting Systems in the United States". Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology (42): 163. doi:10.5479/si.00810258.42.1.
  6. ^ SIA RU009603 African American Exhibits at the Smithsonian, KIDWELL-I1-ML-PMH.doc
  7. ^ PAEC Memo dated May 5, 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 1.
  8. ^ SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 1
  9. ^ Official departmental division in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 2.
  10. ^ PAEC Memo dated May 5, 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 1.
  11. ^ Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution for the year ended September 30, 1979 (Report). 1979. p. 206. for Kidwell's announcement as Acting Director. Note: There were several acting directors before her, including Otto Mayr as acting director for 2 ½ years prior to her appointment.
  12. ^ SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 3
  13. ^ SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 2
  14. ^ Jones, Julia (May 22, 1985). "Clothing: A clue to the future". The Phoenix Gazette.
  15. ^ SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 2 "GIAG".
  16. ^ PAEC Memo dated May 5, 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945–2010, Box 1.

References edit

[1] SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945-2010, Box 1

[2] SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945-2010, Box 2

[3] SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records, 1893, 1915, 1945-2010, Box 3

[4] SIA RU009603 African American Exhibits at the Smithsonian, KIDWELL-I1-ML-PMH.doc

January 01, 1970
claudia, brush, kidwell, born, january, 1941, costume, historian, former, curator, smithsonian, institution, national, museum, american, history, division, social, history, primarily, costume, collection, served, first, only, female, acting, director, museum, . Claudia Brush Kidwell born January 7 1941 is a costume historian and former curator at the Smithsonian Institution at the National Museum of American History in the Division of Social History primarily in the Costume Collection She served as the first and only female acting director at the Museum of History and Technology in 1979 Contents 1 Education 2 Professional career 3 Establishment of the Division of Costume 4 Other professional work 5 Publications 6 Notes 7 ReferencesEducation editClaudia Brush Kidwell received her bachelor s degree at University of Maryland in 1962 and her master s degree in 1964 from Pennsylvania State University in Home Economics and Clothing and Textiles Professional career editBetween her junior and senior year at the University of Maryland Kidwell worked as an intern in the Division of Textiles at the Museum of History and Technology 1 in 1961 After completing her undergraduate and graduate studies Kidwell returned to the Smithsonian as assistant curator in the Section of Costume 2 in 1964 She advanced to curator after three years 3 serving as liaison to her predecessor Anne Wood Murray where her primary research focused on 18th and 19th century women s clothing Kidwell published her research on American women s bathing suits and costume in 1968 and continued her research on short gowns 4 and the McDowell Garment Drafting Machine 5 until plans for the Bicentennial of the American Revolution anniversary exhibition began in the early 1970s The inaugural exhibition for the bicentennial was curated by Kidwell in an exhibit called Suiting Everyone The Democratization of Clothing in America The exhibit opened in 1974 and received positive reviews in its thematic interpretation of clothing and fashion appearance s influence on cultural identity a new strategy in the Section of Costume 6 Her research on this particular exhibit not only inspired visitors but her own initiative to research gender perspectives in costume and appearance which would surface in her later exhibits and Smithsonian activities 7 Establishment of the Division of Costume editKidwell initiated a proposal for the formal separation of the former Division of Costume and Furnishings in 1977 Kidwell proposed an independent Division of Costume in a memorandum addressed to then assistant director Silvio Bedini Clothes made the man observed Mark Twain Naked people have little or no influence in society I use this quote to illustrate in a different way the obvious but frequently overlooked fact that clothing is fundamental to the human experience Remember the first thing that Adam and Eve did after eating an apple was to find fig leaves Subject Costume to be a Division or not to be a Division Memo to Silvio Bedini from Claudia Kidwell March 31 1977 8 The Division of Costume was formally established the following year in 1978 9 upon Kidwell s proposal The successful proposal subsequently led to her promotion to curator and supervisor in the new Division of Costume from 1978 to 1981 10 She served as chairman to the Department of Cultural History from 1978 to 1981 after which she returned to her position as curator supervisor in the Division of Costume until 1995 She would come to serve as the first and only female acting director of the Museum of History and Technology in the fall of 1979 11 Kidwell went on to curate a number of exhibits of which Getting Dressed Fashionable Appearance 1750 1800 1985 1987 Men and Women A History of Costume Gender and Power 1989 1991 and Looking American 1994 as a part of The Smithsonian s America held particular attention in their successful redefinition of the American identity through clothing and appearance In 1995 Kidwell became curator of the Division of Social History in the Costume Collection Other professional work editKidwell s initial research primarily focused on 18th and 19th century women s clothing influencing her innovative research on short gowns 12 Her trajectory changed course as her research turned towards the changing gender conventions in and throughout fashion history Her primary work aimed to study the importance of fashionable appearance for the identification of social group changing fashions and philosophies and the relationship between prescribed posture and gestures and the layers of clothing as they were put on 13 Kidwell s main priority in her research was to talk about behavior as opposed to solely clothes denoting an emphasis on the influence of fashion on not only gender roles but consequently identity and culture 14 In 1990 Kidwell created an initiative catalyzed by her own interest in gender perspectives called the Gender Issues Action Group GIAG 15 This organization originated within the Smithsonian Institution and has since moved on to work with other Smithsonian organizations to formally integrate ethnicities and identities formerly underrepresented at the Smithsonian Institution Kidwell formally changed the Division of Costume s mission statement in 1991 to shift the collecting focus from that of assembling complete collections of objects to that of collecting material to provide insights into what it had meant to be an American 16 This influenced a major change in the questions asked about what is included in a collection of costume Kidwell s legacy on material culture s influence and significance as well as her determination to change conservative views of identity at the Smithsonian has proven pivotal in the Smithsonian Institution s reimagining of history and museum culture Publications edit Conformity and Deindividuation Studies in Conflict and Restraint Research Bulletin 44 Pennsylvania State University Department of Psychology 1964 Women s Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States PDF U S National Museum Bulletin 250 Washington D C Smithsonian Institution Press 1968 Suiting Everyone The Democratization of Clothing in America With Margaret C Christman Washington D C Smithsonian Institution Press 1974 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint others link Paper Patterns 1876 A Centennial Exhibition Washington D C Smithsonian Institution Press 1976 Rags Riches and In Between Historic Preservation 28 73 87 1976 Kidwell Claudia 1977 01 01 Apparel for Ballooning with speculations on more commonplace garb Costume 11 1 73 87 doi 10 1179 cos 1977 11 1 73 ISSN 0590 8876 Kidwell Claudia 1978 Short Gowns Dress 4 1 30 65 doi 10 1179 036121178805298838 ISSN 0361 2112 Cutting a Fashionable Fit Dressmakers Drafting Systems in the United States Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology 42 163 1979 doi 10 5479 si 00810258 42 1 Getting Dressed Fashionable Appearance 1750 1800 Division of Costume NMAH 1985 Steele Valerie ed 1989 Men and Women Dressing the Part With Valerie Steele Washington D C Smithsonian Institution Press Notes edit The Museum of History and Technology opened in 1964 and was formally renamed the National Museum of American History in 1980 National Museum of American History Smithsonian Institution Archives 2011 04 14 Retrieved 2023 10 16 The section of costume became a formal division of costume at the Smithsonian Institution in 1977 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 Costume Collection to be a Division Memo Departmental re organization 9 May 1977 In 1969 the Section of Costume was renamed the Division of Costume and Furnishings although it did not have official autonomy as the sole costume collection The Division of Political History held responsibility with the Division of Costume and Furnishings For additional details on the history of the Section under the Division of Political History see SIA Record Unit 252 Kidwell Claudia 1978 Short Gowns Dress 4 1 30 65 doi 10 1179 036121178805298838 ISSN 0361 2112 Kidwell Claudia B 1979 Cutting a Fashionable Fit Dressmakers Drafting Systems in the United States Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology 42 163 doi 10 5479 si 00810258 42 1 SIA RU009603 African American Exhibits at the Smithsonian KIDWELL I1 ML PMH doc PAEC Memo dated May 5 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 Official departmental division in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 2 PAEC Memo dated May 5 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution for the year ended September 30 1979 Report 1979 p 206 for Kidwell s announcement as Acting Director Note There were several acting directors before her including Otto Mayr as acting director for 2 years prior to her appointment SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 3 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 2 Jones Julia May 22 1985 Clothing A clue to the future The Phoenix Gazette SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 2 GIAG PAEC Memo dated May 5 1998 in SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 References edit 1 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 1 2 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 2 3 SIA RS00468 Curatorial Records 1893 1915 1945 2010 Box 3 4 SIA RU009603 African American Exhibits at the Smithsonian KIDWELL I1 ML PMH doc Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Claudia Brush Kidwell amp oldid 1220875266, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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