Chris Sharma

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport.^[1] He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route,^[a] and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport.^[3] Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich (who held it for almost a decade from the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012).^[4]

Chris Sharma

Sharma in 2008
Personal information
Born	(1981-04-23) April 23, 1981 (age 42)^[1] Santa Cruz, California, U.S.
Occupation	Professional rock climber
Height	6 ft 0 in (183 cm)^[2]
Weight	165 lb (75 kg)^[2]
Spouse(s)	Jimena Alarcón
Website	www.chrissharma.com
Climbing career
Type of climber	Sport climbing Bouldering Deep water solo Competition climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 5.15c (9b+) On-sight: 5.14b (8c) Bouldering: V15 (8C)
Known for	First to climb consensus sport 9a+ (5.15a)^[a], 9b (5.15b), and second to climb 9b+ (5.15c) First to climb DWS grades at 9a+ (5.15a)
First ascents	The Mandala (V12, 2000) Realization (5.15a, 2001) Es Pontàs (5.15a, 2006) Jumbo Love (5.15b 2008)
Medal record World Youth Championships 1995 Lead World Championships 1997 Lead
Updated on 20 June, 2022.

In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus 9b (5.15b) route with Jumbo Love, and in 2013, became only the second-ever person to climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route with La Dura Dura. Sharma is also known for free soloing the world's first-ever 9a+ (5.15a) deep-water solo route, Es Pontàs in 2006.^[5] Sharma became one of the most commercially successful climbers in his sport, and was noted for his "King Lines" – iconic routes that inspired him to spend the months and even years needed to climb them – some of which feature in the award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^[5][6]

Early life

Chris Omprakash Sharma was born and raised in Santa Cruz, California, the only child of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma.^[1][7][8] His parents were devotees of the yogi Baba Hari Dass, and adopted the surname Sharma when they got married.^[1][7] He went to Mount Madonna, and attended Soquel High School for a year.^[7][8] Sharma started rock climbing when he was 12 at the Pacific Edge Climbing Gym,^[1] and he described himself as "one of the first climbing-gym-generation kids".^[9]

Climbing career

1996–2002 (to Realization)

From the outset, Sharma was considered prodigy in the climbing world.^[10][11][12] At age 14, he won the adult 1996 US Open Bouldering Nationals,^[1] and a year later aged 15, he freed Boone Speed's project Necessary Evil 5.14c (8c+) in the Virgin River Gorge,^[12] the hardest sport climb in North America at the time.^[1][13] The following year, Sharma won silver at the biennial UIAA World Championships at Paris,^[14] and gold at the Kranj leg of the UIAA World Cup, both for lead climbing.^[15] Still 16, he suffered a serious knee injury that sidelined him for over a year.^[b][3] Aged 18, Sharma moved to Bishop, California, and began a US bouldering revolution with his 1999 film Rampage,^[18][19] and in February 2000, completed the first ascent of The Mandala, a world-famous boulder problem.^[1][20]

On 18 July 2001, aged 19, Sharma completed the extension of the 8c+ (5.14c) route Biographie in Ceüse in France, and named it Realization; the route was the first consensus 9a+ (5.15a) in the world,^[a] and has since become an important route in the history of sport climbing, with Climbing magazine noting that "technical rock climbing jumped in its evolution".^[1][3] It was the first confirmed increase in grades since Wolfgang Gullich's ascent of Action Directe 9a (5.14d), a decade earlier.^[4][24] Sharma's ascent of the route was captured in Josh Lowell's 2002 film, Dosage Volume 1.^[25] Days later, Sharma won the Munich leg of the IFSC World Cup in bouldering, only to be disqualified on testing positive for marijuana.^[10][26]

2002–2008 (to Jumbo Love)

After Realization, Sharma considered quitting climbing and went on Buddhist pilgrimages. A 2003 trip to Mallorca, Spain to meet Miquel Riera, a pioneer of deep-water soloing, led him to "fall in love with climbing all over again".^[3][16] Sharma largely abandoned competitions,^[c] to focus on "King Lines", a term he adopted for iconic routes that motivated him.^[d][8] In 2004, Sharma solved the boulder problem Practice of the Wild V15 (8C), and in 2005 solved the dramatic roof of Witness the Fitness V15 (8C), followed by redpointing Dreamcatcher 9a (5.14d), regarded as one of North America's most iconic sport climbs.^[1] In 2006, he made an early repeat of La Rambla 9a+ (5.15a), and in 2006, after 50 attempts,^[20] stuck the crux dyno of Es Pontàs in Mallorca, the world's first-ever 5.15a (9a+) DWS route.^[1][5] Some of Sharma's climbs from this era are in the iconic and award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^{[1][5][6][27]}

In 2007, Sharma moved to Lleida, a town near the Spanish Pyrenees, in Catalonia, Spain,^[3] and over the next five years, created an unprecedented series of new 9a+ (5.15a) to 9b (5.15b) sport climbs,^[28] predominantly in Catalonian limestone crags (namely Oliana, Siurana, Santa Linya and Margalef), starting with the 9a+ (5.15a) classic of Papichulo in May 2008.^[e][3] In September 2008, Sharma made a trip back to the United States and climbed the world's first-ever consensus 5.15b (9b) route when he freed Randy Leavitt's 250-foot (76 m) bolted route,^[29] Jumbo Love in Clark Mountain in California.^[1]

2008–2013 (to La Dura Dura)

Sharma said that after climbing Jumbo Love, he needed to change his approach.^[12] His previous breakthroughs had been on routes established and bolted by other climbers who had given up on them,^[f] and now he needed to find his own limit saying: "I wanted to push myself to the next level. Where is that? I had to discover it. That was a big process in itself. So I bolted all these routes [in Spain]. And a lot of them ended up being that next level".^[12] The period saw Sharma bolt and free numerous new extreme 9b (5.15b)-graded "King Lines", including Golpe de Estado [fr] (2008), Neanderthal (2009), and First Round First Minute (2011), each a major project in itself and since regarded as important classics, with Sharma saying "That's the thing about being on the cutting edge. You have to invent it".^[12]

In 2011, Sharma invited the then 19-year-old climbing prodigy Adam Ondra, to try an Oliana route he had bolted in 2009 called La Dura Dura, which Sharma himself had given up on saying "I never saw myself being able to climb it.", and "I figured it would be for the next generation".^[12] For the next year, the two climbers worked the route in a collaborative process that saw Ondra make the first ascent in February 2013, and Sharma make the first repeat in March 2013.^[12] National Geographic called their collaboration a defining moment in the sport of rock climbing, when the title of "world's best climber" had begun to pass from one generation to the next.^[4] Both Ondra and Sharma declared the collaboration to be a very positive experience with Sharma saying post his March ascent: "It was a healthy process for both of us, we fed off each other's motivation and through him, I think I became a better climber myself".^[12][30] Their collaboration was documented in Reel Rock 7 (2012), and La Dura Complete (2013).^[31][32]

Post 2013

At 9b+ (5.15c), La Dura Dura would hold the rank of "world's hardest climb"^[g] until Ondra climbed Silence at 9c (5.15d) in 2017, and while Sharma would put up several more "King Lines" over the next 5 years, it marked the high-point in terms of his hardest route.^[1] In 2015, he freed El Bon Combat, considered at the time to be close to 9b+ (5.15c), and in 2016 he soloed Alesha, the world's first 9b (5.15b) DWS route.^[1][3] One of Sharma's unfinished projects was a potential 9c (5.15d) route in Oliana beside La Dura Dura called Le Blond, named in memory of Patrick Edlinger; it remains unfinished.^[34][35] In March 2023, aged 41, Sharma made the first redpoint of Sleeping Lion, a 9b+ (5.15c) route beside La Rambla in Spain, which he described as the hardest thing he had done in over eight years.^[36] At the same time in 2023, noting that neighboring Golpe de Estado has never had a third ascent, Sharma wondered if it was a really 9b+ (5.15c) graded route, which would have made it the world's first-ever at that grade.^[37]

Legacy

Sharma is widely considered one of the greatest and most important rock climbers in the history of the sport.^{[1][3][5][16][13]} Sharma took on the title of "world's strongest sport climber" in 2001 from Wolfgang Gullich (who dominated in the decade from the early 1980s to the early 1990s), and passed it on to Adam Ondra (who dominated after 2012).^[4] In 2003, the LA Times called him the "greatest natural rock climber in the world".^[10] In 2007, Melissa Block on NPR's All Things Considered, introduced him saying "Chris Sharma is hailed as the world's best rock climber, a pioneer who has mastered some of the most spectacular and difficult routes in the history of the sport".^[2] In 2016, Outside said "Sharma shaped modern rock climbing. Whatever he thought was cool, we followed. Bouldering. Projecting hard sport routes. Deep water soloing.^[3] In 2022, Climbing said: "The pioneering American sport climber is among the best to ever tie in, and was arguably the world's strongest rock climber for almost 20 years".^[1]

Sharma is noted for a "humble softly-spoken meditative disposition" (who often leaves it to others to grade his routes)^[24][38][39] coupled with a "highly aggressive and dynamic" climbing style.^[8][20][5] In 2016, Climbing said: "Over the past three decades, Sharma has cultivated a mellow Southern California persona, but in reality, he's one of the most competitive, focused, and driven athletes out there".^[3] His demeanor has been ascribed to his Buddhist raising;^[39] the LA Times called him "the Karma Climber".^[10] He has credited Zen meditation techniques with helping him on routes,^[20][40] or when seeking direction and motivation.^[3][17] Sharma was also known for eschewing any gym-based training (including fingerboards or cross-training) or dieting,^[41] preferring to climb as his sole method of training.^[20][3][42]

Sharma is credited with developing the commercial potential of extreme sport climbing, with Climbing saying "Not only did Sharma have the guns to become the first human to climb 5.15, he had the genius to see the potential, coupled with the commitment to spend months and years of his life proving it",^[3] and calling Sharma "arguably the highest-paid pro climber in the world".^[3] Outside added, "Before Sharma figured out how to balance elite performance with making a living, "professional climber" was an oxymoron.^[43] Sharma's commercial appeal, and becoming one of the most filmed climbers,^[5] was attributed to his focus on "King Lines",^[d] which Sharma described as: "It's not enough to do something hard; it needs to be in an amazing position, a route that asks you to pour your heart and soul into climbing it".^[3][5]

Personal life

Sharma is the founder of the rock climbing gym Sender One, headquartered in Santa Ana, California, which he opened in 2013 as a business partnership with Walltopia, who was a sponsor of Sharma.^[1][2][43] In 2015, he opened a second gym, Sharma Climbing BCN, in Barcelona in Spain, and in 2021 he opened a third gym, Sharma Climbing Gava, on the outskirts of Barcelona.^[1][20]

Sharma was in a long-term public relationship with the Spanish professional climber Daila Ojeda [fr], and they lived together in Oliana.^[8][44][45] In August 2015, he married Venezuelan model and television personality Jimena Alarcón, and the couple moved from Oliana to Barcelona.^[1][3] Their first child, a daughter named Alana, was born in June 2016,^[3] and their second child, a son, in 2019.^[16]

Zen

Sharma's parents were practising Zen Buddhists (although they did not live in at the Mount Madonna ashram)^[8] and for long periods Sharma has followed Zen routines (including daily 5.45am temple meditation).^[10][20][39] Sharma has been on various Asian pilgrimages lasting several months, including the Shikoku Pilgrimage in Japan that he undertook after climbing Realization in 2001.^[20][46]

The 2010 book Climbing: Because It's There (Philosophy for Everyone) discussed the impact of Zen Buddhism on Sharma saying: "Sharma's affinity for Buddhism, and Zen in particular, is well documented in film and print. He exemplifies the spirit of Zen, being humble (but potent), ordinary (but extraordinary), self-aware, and most of all, authentic".^[47]

Sharma has however rejected the label of "spiritual climber", saying in 2011: "To be stereotyped like that definitely detracts from me personally. Like I said, I'm totally happy talking about this stuff. I just don’t want to make some image for myself like I’m some sort of saint or something. I get frustrated, and I get bummed out".^[8] Sharma is no longer a practicing Zen Buddhist, and said in 2022: "Climbing is fully engaging… it’s an easy way to access that [meditative] state of mind… easier than sitting down and meditating".^[20]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

• La Dura Dura – Oliana (ESP) – 23 March, 2013. Sharma developed and bolted the route, and made the first repeat after Adam Ondra's February 2013 first ascent.^[1][12]

• Sleeping Lion – Siurana (ESP) – 28 March, 2023. First ascent of a route that Sharma developed and bolted.^[36]

9b/+  (5.15b/c):

• El Bon Combat – Cova de l'Ocell (ESP) – 7 March, 2015. First ascent; described by Sharma as a "King Line",^[1][48] now considered closer to 5.15b, but a classic.^[49]

9b (5.15b):

• Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – 11 September, 2008. First ascent, and world's first-ever 9b (5.15b) route. Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), and Jonathan Siegrist (2018).^[1][50]
• Golpe de Estado [fr] – Siurana (ESP) – 17 December, 2008. First ascent, and the first-ever 9b (5.15b) to be repeated when Adam Ondra climbed it in March 2010 (it was Ondra's first-ever 9b).^[51] In 2023, noting that it has never had a 3rd ascent, Sharma wondered if it was a 9b+ (5.15c).^[37]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 18 December, 2009. First ascent. Second ascent by Jakob Schubert (2018), and third, after almost a decade of attempts, by Adam Ondra (2019).^[52]
• First Round First Minute – Margalef (ESP) – 19 April, 2011. First ascent. First repeat by Adam Ondra (2014), second by Alex Megos (2016), and third by Stefano Ghisolfi (2017).^[53][54]
• Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – 5 May, 2011. First ascent. First repeat by Adam Ondra (2013); the "first 9b" for many others (Jakob Schubert (2015), Sachi Amma (2015), Matty Hong (2018)).^[55]
• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 6 February 2013. First ascent. First repeat by Adam Ondra (2016), and like Fight or Flight, a popular 9b route.^[56]

9a+ (5.15a):

• Realization – Céüse (FRA) – 18 July, 2001. First ascent and the world's first-ever consensus 9a+ (5.15a) route;^[a] features in Dosage Volume 1.^[1][20][3]
• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 31 May, 2008. First ascent. First repeat by Adam Ondra (2009), and has since become one of the most repeated and popular 9a+ routes.^[e][58]
• Demencia Senil – Margalef (ESP) – 20 February, 2009. First ascent. First repeated by Iker Pou (2010), and second repeat by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (2010).^[59]
• Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 29 May, 2009. First ascent. First repeated by Sachi Amma (2011), and then by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (2015), and Adam Ondra (2017).^[60]
• First Ley – Margalef (ESP) – 28 February, 2010. First ascent. Shorter 15m route that avoids the 9b finish of First Round First Minute; popular "first 9a+" with several repeats.^[61]
• Power Inverter – Oliana (ESP) – December, 2010. First Ascent. First repeated by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (2014), and then by Sachi Amma (2015).^[62]
• Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 14 January, 2011. First Ascent. First repeated by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué (2012); numerous repeats.^[63]
• La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – 1 December, 2006. Third ascent (just a day after the second ascent), and made Scharma the first climber to have climbed multiple confirmed 5.15a (9a+) routes.^[64]

9a (5.14d):

• Dreamcatcher – Squamish, British Columbia (CDN) – September, 2005. First ascent. Bolted with Sonnie Trotter, since considered one of the most iconic climbs in North America.^[65][66][67]
• Three Degrees of Separation – Céüse (FRA) – July, 2007. First ascent. Right of Realization and uses 3 large dynos;^[5] the first repeat was by Adam Ondra (2015), who felt it was a 9a+.^[68][69]
• Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – March, 2010. First ascent. Sharma did it warming up and called a "soft 9a"; it became a popular "first 9a",^[70] but the grade is now considered 8c+/9a.^[71][72]
• Samfaina – Margalef (ESP) – June, 2010. First ascent. Sharma felt it was 9a, but Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Alex Megos suggest 9a+.^[73]

8c+ (5.14c):

• Necessary Evil – Virgin River Gorge (USA) – 1997. First ascent. Sharma, aged 15, freed Boone Speed's project to create North America's hardest route at the time.^[1]

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

• French Gangster – Yangshuo (CHN) – April, 2009. Hardest route in China at the time (renamed from American Gangster).^[74][75]
• Humildes Pa' Casa – Oliana (ESP) – December, 2008.^[76]
• Divine Fury – Maple Canyon (USA) – September, 2008.^[77][75]
• T-Rex – Maple Canyon (USA) – September, 2008.^[77][75]
• Snuff Movies – Sant Llorenç del Munt (ESP) – May, 2015.^[75][78]
• V for Vendatta – Siurana (ESP) – 1 April, 2022. Sharma was about to turn 41, and it was his sixth time onsighting 8c.^[79][80]

Deep-water solo routes

 

Es Pontàs, Mallorca. Sharma's route climbs the roof of the sea arch finishing at its apex.^[81]

9a+ (5.15a):

• Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – 26 September, 2006. First ascent, and featured in the film King Lines.^[82][83] World's first-ever DWS at 9a+, and considered one of the most spectacular in the sport.^[27][81][84] First repeat by Jernej Kruder (2016), then Jan Hojer (2018) and Jakob Schubert (2021).^[85]

9a (5.14d):

• Alasha – Mallorca (ESP) – 16 September, 2016. First ascent (named for his daughter Alana). Sharma felt it would be 9a with bolts, but as a DWS route was closer to 9b.^[86] First repeat by Jakob Schubert in 2021 who felt it was a 9a DWS route.^[87]

Boulder problems

V15 (8C):

• Practice of the Wild – Magic Wood, (CHE) – August, 2004. First ascent. First repeat by Tyler Landman, then Daniel Woods;^[88] possible 8B+/C .^[89]
• Witness the Fitness – Ozarks (USA) – March, 2005. First ascent of 40-foot (12 m) roof and filmed in Dosage 3. Repeated by Fred Nicole and Daniel Woods, but unclimbable after hold broke.^[88][90]
• Catalan Witness the Fitness – Cova de l’Ocell (Barcelona, ESP) – January, 2016. First ascent. A tunnel-like, horizontal roof;^[88][91] possible 8B+/C .^[92]

V12 (8A+):

• The Mandala – The Buttermilks (Bishop, USA) – February, 2000. First Ascent of an iconic boulder problem. Several holds have since broken, and it is speculated the original grade was V14 (8B+).^[20]

Bibliography

• Why We Climb: The World's Most Inspiring Climbers (Chris Noble), 2017, Falcon Guides. pages 239–261 ISBN 978-1493018536.

Filmography

• Sharma's 1999 bouldering tour of California: Lowell, Josh (director) (1999). Rampage (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000GD5FNS. Retrieved 20 June 2022.^[18]
• Sharma's 2001 ascent of Realization: Lowell, Josh (director) (2001). Dosage Volume I (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000NOK288. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
• Sharma's 2005 ascent of the roof of Witness the Fitness: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005). Dosage Volume III (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B00YKPDS96. Retrieved 20 June 2022.
• Sharma's 2005 ascent of Dreamcatcher: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005). Dosage Volume IV (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000JQK8BG. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
• Sharma's 2007 ascent of Es Pontas, and Three Degrees: Mortimer, Peter (director) (2007). King Lines (Motion picture). Sender Films. ASIN B000XW1NV0. Retrieved 17 June 2022.^[6]
• Ondra and Sharma's 2012 attempts on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2012). Reel Rock 7 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 28 December 2021.^[32]
• Ondra and Sharma's 2013 ascents on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2014). La Dura Complete (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. Retrieved 29 December 2021.

Competitions

• 1995 Annual IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships (Lead, Youth B for age 14-15), Laval event. Gold Medal.
• 1996 Annual U.S. Open Bouldering Nationals. Gold Medal. Sharma was aged 14 when he won the adult open competition.^[1][7]
• 1997 Biennial UIAA Climbing World Championships (Lead), Paris event. Silver Medal. Sharma was aged 16.^[14]
• 1997 UIAA World Cup (Lead), Kranj event. Gold Medal. Sharma was aged 16.^[15]
• 1999 Summer X Games, San Francisco (Bouldering). Gold Medal. Sharma was aged 17.^[1][7][10]
• 2000 Wasatch Open Bouldering Competition.^[93]
• 2001 18th Annual Phoenix Bouldering Contest.^[94]
• 2001 IFSC World Cup (Bouldering), Munich event. Gold Medal,^[94] but subsequently disqualified when testing positive for marijuana.^[10][26]

After 2001, Sharma largely abandoned most competition climbing but did take part in various US events:^[c]

• 2002 Ford Gorge Games^[39]
• 2003 Earth Treks Roc Comp^[95]
• 2004 Earth Treks Roc Comp^[95]
• 2004 American Bouldering Series, third round of the 2003–04 Series (ABS5).^[1][96]
• 2007 Mammut Bouldering Championships^[97]
• 2008 Mammut Bouldering Championships^[97]
• 2009 Ilerbloc Open Internacional^[98]
• 2010 Earth Treks Roc Comp^[99]
• 2010 Psicobloc Masters Series, Bilbao, Spain. The world's first DWS competition.^[1]

See also

• List of grade milestones in rock climbing
• History of rock climbing
• Josune Bereziartu, greatest female sport climber of the 1990s and 2000s
• Wolfgang Güllich, greatest sport climber of the 1980s

Notes

1. It is possible that it was not the actual first-ever 9a+ route to be climbed, as in 2008 Czech climber Adam Ondra estimated that Alexander Huber's 1996 ascent of Open Air was at 9a+ (5.15a).^[21][22] Climbing author Andrew Bisharat notes in a 2016 essay on climbing re-grades, that "The other interesting point about Open Air that’s worth mentioning is that the route reportedly contains some rather flaky holds that have broken off over the years. So was the Open Air that Ondra climbed the exact same route that Alex Huber climbed? Maybe, but probably not."^[23]
2. In various interviews, Sharma describes that this period had a profound effect on his outlook on life and climbing and that he spent time reading into Buddhism and meditation techniques, noting that "You learn to be patient, sit tight, and not add more mental strife to an already difficult situation".^[3][16][17]
3. In a 2011 interview with Climbing magazine editor Jeff Achey, Sharma said "Personally, that’s not ever really been my deal. I mean, competitions are fun, but 15 minutes after the competition they take the holds off. It's way more important for me to put up new routes and develop my vision in rock climbing. Create a legacy, create something lasting. No one remembers who won the freakin’ World Cup in 1997, but people know who put up Action Directe.^[8]
4. The term "King Lines" was originally coined by climber Klem Loskot, but after the 2007 climbing film King Lines, it became associated with Sharma's drive to find and climb iconic routes.^[3]
5. Realization, La Rambla and Papichulo have become known as the "9a+ trilogy", as they are regarded as classic benchmark 9a+/5.15a test-pieces for extreme sport climbers.^[57]
6. Necessary Evil 5.14c (8c+) was shown to him by its creator Boone Speed (who became a mentor to Sharma), Realization 5.15a (9a+) was created and developed by French climbers Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Arnaud Petit [fr], while Jumbo Love 5.15b (9b) was bolted by Randy Leavitt who invited Sharma to try it as a potential 5.15b/c.^[12][29]
7. Ondra confirmed that La Dura Dura was harder than the world's only other 9b+ route, Change, which was climbed by Ondra in 2013 in Norway.^[12] In August 2022, French climber Seb Bouin, frequent climbing partner of Ondra, made the third ascent of Change and felt that the discovery of a kneebar made the grade it 9b/9b+  (5.15b/c), thus making La Dura Dura the world's first-ever 9b+.^[33]

References

1. Clarke, Owen (11 June 2022). "Chris Sharma—One Of The Best And Most Influential Rock Climbers Of All Time". Climbing. Retrieved 11 June 2022.
2. Block, Melissa. "Rock Climber Chris Sharma Chases Next 'King Line'". NPR. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
3. Noble, Chris (27 September 2016). "Interview: The Future of Sharma". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021. Consider that in 2016 it's possible to be a sponsored climber simply by repeating Sharma routes. No need to discover, bolt, and send new routes of equal or greater difficulty. Sharma shaped modern rock climbing. Whatever he thought was cool, we followed. Bouldering. Projecting hard sport routes. Deep water soloing.
4. Cahall, Fitz (13 November 2013). "Adventurers of the Year: Climber Adam Ondra". National Geographic. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
5. Cahall, Fritz (15 June 2012). "Chris Sharma: King Of Kings". Climbing. Retrieved 15 June 2022. Tiger Woods, Michael Jordan, or Kelley Slater. They're all people who changed their sports, who redefined what was possible. You've been that same kind of incredible force inside your sport.
6. Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 18 October 2022. Number 11. King Lines (2007)
7. Fraser, Christa (27 September 2000). "Rock Star". Metro Silicon Valley. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
8. Achey, Jeff (November 2018). "Half Life: Chris Sharma Interview (February 2011, Issue 292)". Vantage Point: 50 Years of the Best Climbing Stories Ever Told. Falcon Guides Publishing. p. 202. ISBN 978-1493034772. Retrieved 18 June 2022.
9. Sharma, Chris (23 August 2018). "Chris Sharma: A Lifetime of Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
10. Reitman, Janet (19 January 2013). "Karma Climber". LA Times. Retrieved 15 June 2022. Those hands and those seemingly unnatural feats have helped make him the greatest natural rock climber in the world.
11. "The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz". Rock & Ice. 15 April 2021. ... has teamed up with Chris Sharma, the California prodigy turned sport-climbing and bouldering visionary
12. Bishart, Andrew (27 November 2013). "Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb la Dura Dura (5.15c) – the World's Hardest Route". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
13. Geldard, Jack (August 2012). "Exclusive Interview: Chris Sharma Talks 9b+". UKClimbing. Retrieved September 25, 2017. Chris Sharma, the 31 year old American sport climber, is perhaps the most famous rock climber in the world.
14. "Climbing World Champions 1991 - 2009". PlanetMountain. 8 March 2011. Retrieved 18 June 2022. 1997 Paris (France) 1. François Petit FRA, 2. Chris Sharma USA, 3. François Legrand FRA
15. "THE HISTORY OF WORLD CUP COMPETITIONS IN KRANJ". IFSClimbingWorldCup. January 2022. Retrieved 17 June 2022. 1997 - Liv Sansoz (FRA) and Chris Sharma (USA)
16. Osius, Alison (13 July 2020). "Chris Sharma: What I've Learned". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 15 June 2022. Chris Sharma is one of the greatest sport climbers and boulderers of all time.
17. "Why Chris Sharma Never Gets Mad (Well, maybe a little sometimes)". Climbing. 21 July 2021. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
18. Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 18 October 2022. Number 18. Rampage (1999)
19. "Rampage: Full Film With Chris Sharma". Climbing. 2 April 2020. Retrieved 20 June 2022.
20. Golay, Carolyn (29 May 2022). "Chris Sharma: A Climber of Our Time". ClimbingHouse. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
21. "Chris Sharma Turns 40 Today, Happy Birthday!". Gripped.com. 23 April 2021. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
22. McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
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26. "Bouldering World Cup 2001, Munich, the results". PlanetMountain. 25 July 2011. Retrieved 18 June 2022.
27. "Watch Chris Sharma's Most Spectacular Climb Es Pontás, Remastered". Gripped. 25 April 2021. Retrieved 18 June 2022.
28. Larssen, Jens (8 September 2013). "Ondra and Sharma totally dominate the 9b stats". 8a.nu. Retrieved 22 June 2022. Beside Ondra and Sharma, we have not seen any dramatic redpoint progress since 1991!
29. McDonald, Dougald (9 October 2013). "Sharma Working Clark Mountain Mega-Proj". Climbing. Retrieved 18 June 2022.
30. "Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview". PlanetMountain.com. 26 March 2013. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
31. "La Dura Complete: The Full Story Of The Hardest Rock Climb In The World". Climbing. 26 March 2014. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
32. Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 18 October 2022. Number 6. Reel Rock 7 (2012)
33. Potter, Stephen (8 August 2022). "Seb Bouin Gets Third Ascent of the World's First 5.15c". Climbing. Retrieved 18 November 2022.
34. Corrigan, Kevin (21 March 2017). "Interview: Chris Sharma Talks Le Blond, Training, and 5.15d". Climbing. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
35. "Hardest Climbs In The World: Highest Climbing Grades + Routes". ClimberNews. 29 March 2021. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
36. Miller, Delaney (30 March 2023). "Exclusive Interview: Chris Sharma Makes 5.15c FA in Siurana". Climbing. Retrieved 18 April 2023.
37. Spoon, Nathaniel (27 February 2023). "The Next 9c in the World will be…". UKClimbing. Retrieved 15 July 2023.
38. Niswonger, Matt (22 October 2009). "King of the Line". Adventure Sports Journal. Retrieved 18 June 2022. Refusing to grade his projects, Sharma became a force for de-emphasizing numerical grades in order to focus on the intrinsic and personal challenges that climbing presents. Although this more closely allied with his Zen beliefs, it made things difficult for the climbing magazines looking to quantify his projects for an international audience.
39. Struby, Tim (31 December 2002). "Balancing Act". ESPN The Magazine. Retrieved 20 June 2022.
40. Spring, Joe (20 April 2012). "Getting Inside the Heads of Chris Sharma, Steph Davis, and Dean Potter". Outside. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
41. Landu, Ian (29 July 2013). "Training Secrets from the World's Best Rock Climber". Outside. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
42. Thomas, Gregory (10 October 2016). "Pro Climber Chris Sharma's First-Ever Training Plan". Outside. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
43. Heller, Seth (22 January 2018). "Chris Sharma Sends the Corporate Ladder". Outside. Retrieved 15 June 2022.
44. "Daila Ojeda: The love of rock connects climbers". LACrux. 26 February 2018. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
45. "ESPN 2013 Body Issue: Chris Sharma & Daila Ojeda". ESPN The Magazine. 2013. Retrieved 19 June 2022. AGES: 32 & 32 WHO THEY ARE: Rock climbers. BODY STATS: 6-foot, 161 pounds & 5-foot-2, 110 pounds
46. Hensley, Tiff (May 2009). "Rock Climber Chris Sharma: Playing with Peace & Chaos". Wanderlust. Retrieved 16 June 2020.
47. Schmid, Stephen E.; Allhoff, Fritz (September 2010). "Chapter 9: Zen and the art of Climbing". Climbing: Because It's There (Philosophy for Everyone). Wiley & Blackwell. p. 126-127. doi:10.1002/9781444327717.ch9. ISBN 978-1444334869.
48. "Chris Sharma interview after new 9b/+ climb at Cova de Ocell in Spain". PlanetMountain. 9 March 2015. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
49. Potter, Stephen (27 May 2022). "Watch Jorge Díaz-Rullo on "El Bon Combat"". Climbing. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
50. Levy, Michael (17 May 2018). "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
51. "Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 22 March 2010. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
52. "Ondra Puts "Neanderthal" (5.15b) to Rest". Rock & Ice. 12 February 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
53. "Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma's First Round, First Minute (5.15b)". Rock & Ice. February 2017. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
54. "Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats First Round First Minute 9b at Margalef". PlanetMountain. 1 April 2021. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
55. "Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 2 May 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
56. "Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Stoking the Fire 5.15b". Gripped. 30 December 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
57. "Flor on La Rambla!". UP Climbing. 19 February 2021. Retrieved 16 June 2022. La Rambla is one of the most known 9a+ in the whole world, a real dream for generations of climbers. Together with Papichulo and Biographie, the line in Siurana forma makes the Trilogy 9a+, and it is the most repeated on the grade.
58. McDonald, Dougald (3 June 2008). "Sharma Climbs 5.15, Heads to Vail World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
59. Pohl, Bjorn (13 October 2010). "Demencia senil, 9a+, by Ramonet". UKClimbing. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
60. "Adam Ondra Sends Pachamama 5.15 in Spain". Gripped. 4 February 2017. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
61. "Buster Martin Climbs 9a+ First Ley". Climbernews. 27 November 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
62. Pohl, Bjorn (17 February 2015). "Power Inverter, 9a+, by Sachi Amma". UKClimbing. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
63. "Jakub Konečný climbs Sharma's Catxasa at Santa Linya, his first 9a+". PlanetMountain. 5 January 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
64. McDonald, Dougald (4 December 2006). "Sharma Repeats La Rambla". Climbing. Retrieved 16 June 2022. Sharma is now the only climber in the world to have climbed multiple routes confirmed at 5.15a, beginning with his landmark send of Realization (5.15a) at Ceüse, France, in 2001.
65. Baile, Alex (18 October 2012). "Sharma Route Dreamcatcher (5.14d) Sees Third Ascent". Climbing. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
66. "Paige Claassen seizes Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish". PlanetMountain. 6 September 2021. Retrieved 19 June 2022. Ever since Dreamcatcher was first ascended in 2005 by Chris Sharma on the Cacodemon boulder at The Chief above Squamish in Canada, this diagonal rail of holds has rapidly evolved into one of the most iconic sport climbs in North America
67. "Alexander Megos dashes up Dreamcatcher at Squamish in Canada". PlanetMountain. 30 August 2016. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
68. "Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse". Rock & Ice. 23 July 2015. Retrieved 17 June 2022. Three dynos and 80 feet of 5.14d climbing later, Adam Ondra clipped the chains on Three Degrees of Separation for its first repeat, eight years after Chris Sharma established the line. As the second person to climb the route, Ondra suggested a harder grade.
69. "Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse". PlanetMountain. 5 April 2019. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
70. Fox, Amanda (6 August 2012). "15-Year-Old Redpoints Era Vella (5.14d)". CLimbing. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
71. Larrsen, Jens (20 April 2018). "Era Vella should officially be called 8c+". 8a.nu. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
72. "The Era Vella Downgrade Debate". Gripped. 23 April 2015. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
73. "Alex Megos Sends a 5.15a as Chris Sharma Weighs In". Gripped. 13 May 2022. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
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75. "Chris Sharma onsight climbs 'Snuff movies' 8c in Sant Llorenç del Munt" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 8 May 2015. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
76. O'Donovan, Pete (9 December 2008). "Catalunya Report - December 8th, 8c Onsight + more". UKClimbing. Retrieved 17 June 2012.
77. MacDonald, Dougald (30 September 2008). "Sharma Onsights Two 5.14's". Climbing. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
78. "Chris Sharma Onsights 5.14b in Spain". Gripped. 7 May 2015. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
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82. "A History of Mallorca Deep Water Soloing". British Mountaineering Council. 8 March 2011. Retrieved 21 December 2021.
83. "Chris Sharma's Mallorca Es Pontas remastered". PlanetMountain. 23 April 2021. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
84. "Es Pontas - Most spectacular deep water soloing route". LACrux. 20 June 2021. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
85. "Jan Hojer Repeats Es Pontas, 5.15b Deep Water Solo". Gripped. 8 October 2018. Retrieved 17 June 2022.
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External links

 

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Chris Sharma.

• Official website
• Chris Sharma at the International Federation of Sport Climbing ()

• theCrag profile
• Climbing.com profile

• Tenaya profile