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Cambric

February 15, 2024

Not to be confused with Cambria, Cambrian, or Cumbric.
"Batiste" redirects here. For other uses, see Batiste (disambiguation).
Look up cambric in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Cambric or batiste is a fine dense cloth.[1] It is a lightweight plain-weave fabric, originally from the commune of Cambrai (in present-day northern France), woven greige (neither bleached nor dyed), then bleached, piece-dyed, and often glazed or calendered. Initially it was made of linen; from the 18th and 19th centuries the term came to apply to cotton fabrics as well.

Embroidered cutwork on cambric
Morning blouse made of cambric
Corsage made of cambric (1898)

Chambray is a similar fabric,[2] with a coloured (often blue or grey) warp and white filling; the name "chambray" replaced "cambric" in the United States in the early 19th century.[3]

Cambric is used as fabric for linens, shirts, handkerchiefs, ruffs,[4] lace, and in cutwork and other needlework.[5][6] Dyed black, it is also commonly used as the dustcover on the underside of upholstered furniture.[7]

Description edit

Cambric is a finely woven cloth with a plain weave and a smooth surface appearance, the result of the calendering process. It may be made of linen or cotton. The fabric may be dyed any of many colours.[8]

Batiste is a kind of cambric;[9] it is "of similar texture, but differently finished, and made of cotton as well as of linen".[10] Batiste also may be dyed or printed.[9] Batiste is the French word for cambric, and some sources consider them to be the same,[8] but in English, they are two distinct fabrics.

Chambray, though the same type of fabric as cambric, has a coloured warp and a white weft, though it may be "made from any colour as you may wish, in the warp, and also in the filling; only have them differ from each other."[11]

Chambray differs from denim in that "chambray's warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other, while denim’s warp thread will go over two threads in the weft before going under one."[12] As a result, the colour of chambray cloth is similar front and back, while the reverse side of denim is lighter in colour.[13]

History edit

Cambric was originally a kind of fine, white, plain-weave linen cloth made at or near Cambrai.[10][9] The word comes from Kameryk or Kamerijk, the Flemish name of Cambrai,[10][9] which became part of France in 1677. The word is attested since 1530.[10] It is a synonym of the French word batiste,[10] itself attested since 1590.[14] Batiste itself comes from the Picard batiche, attested since 1401 and derived from the old French battre for bowing wool. The modern form batiste, or baptiste, comes from a popular merge with the surname Baptiste, pronounced Batisse, as indicated by the use of the expressions thoile batiche (1499) and toile de baptiste (1536) for the same fabric.[14] The alleged[15] invention of the fabric, around 1300, by a weaver called Baptiste or Jean-Baptiste Cambray or Chambray, from the village of Castaing in the peerage of Marcoing, near Cambrai, has no historic ground.[14][16][17][18] Cambric was a finer quality and more expensive[19] than lawn (from the French laune, initially a plain-weave linen fabric from the city of Laon in France[20]). Denoting a geographic origin from the city of Cambrai or its surroundings (Cambresis in French), cambric is an exact equivalent[21] of the French cambrésine (/kɑ̃.bʁe.zin/),[10] a very fine, almost sheer white linen plain-weave fabric,[22] to be distinguished[23] from cambrasine, a fabric comparable to the French lawn despite its foreign origin.[24]

 
A blue chambray fabric, made of a blend of linen and cotton, with blue warp and white filling

Cambric is also similar to chambray (/ˈʃɒmbreɪ/) from a French regional variant of "Cambrai",[10] a name which "also comes from Cambrai, the French city, where the material was originally made of linen yarn".[25] Chambray (also spelled "chambrai") appears in North American English in the early 19th century.[10] Though the term generally refers to a cotton plain weave with a coloured warp and a white weft, close to gingham, "silk chambray" seems to have coexisted.[26] Chambray was often produced during this period by the same weavers producing gingham.[27]

White linen cambric or batiste from Cambrai, noted for its weight and lustre,[28] was "preferred for ecclesiastical wear, fine shirts, underwear, shirt frills, cravats, collars and cuffs, handkerchiefs, and infant wear".[29] Technical use sometime introduced a difference between cambric and batiste, the latter being of a lighter weight and a finer thread count.

In the 18th century, after the prohibition of imports into England of French cambrics,[30] with the development of the import of Indian cotton fabrics, similar[5] cotton fabrics, such as nainsook, from the Hindi nainsukh ("eyes' delight"),[10] became popular. These fabrics, initially called Scotch cambrics to distinguish them from the original French cambrics,[31] came to be referred to as cotton cambrics or batistes.[29] Some authors increased the confusion with the assumption the word batiste could come from the Indian fabric bastas.[32]

In the 19th century, the terms cambric and batiste gradually lost their association with linen, implying only different kinds of fine plain-weave fabrics with a glossy finish.[33][34] In 1907, a fine cotton batiste had 100 ends per inch in the finished fabric, while a cheap-grade, less than 60.[35] At the same time, with development of an interest in coloured shirts, cambric was also woven in colours, such as the pink fabric used by Charvet for a corsage, reducing the difference between cambric and chambray. Moreover, the development and rationalization of mechanical weaving led to the replacement, for chambray, of coloured warp and white weft by the opposite, white warp and coloured weft, which allowed for longer warps.[36]

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ Sir David Brewster (1814). Second American edition of the new Edinburgh encyclopædia. Published by Samuel Whiting and John L. Tiffany [and others]. pp. 189–190.
  2. ^ Extension of the Emergency Price Control Act of 1942. U.S. Government Printing Office. 1944. p. 823. Retrieved 14 July 2020.
  3. ^ Bradley, Linda Arthur (2014). Ethnic Dress in the United States. Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. pp. 67–68. ISBN 9780759121508.
  4. ^ Westman, Hab'k O. (1844). Transactions of the Society of Literary & Scientific Chiffoniers. New York: Harper & Brothers. p. 58.
  5. ^ a b Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier; Bernard Berthod; Martine Chavent-Fusaro (1994). Les étoffes: dictionnaire historique (in French). Editions de l'amateur. p. 120. ISBN 9782859171759.
  6. ^ Betzina, Sandra (2004). More Fabric Savvy: A Quick Resource Guide to Selecting and Sewing Fabric. Taunton Press. ISBN 978-1-56158-662-2.
  7. ^ Popular Mechanics. Hearst Magazines. December 1935. p. 935.
  8. ^ a b Mytum, Harold, ed. (2018). Death Across Oceans: Archaeology of Coffins and Vaults in Britain, America, and Australia. Smithsonian. ISBN 9781944466169.
  9. ^ a b c d Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Cambric" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 5 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 89.
  10. ^ a b c d e f g h i Oxford English Dictionary
  11. ^ Bronson, J. and R. (1977) [First published in 1817]. Early American Weaving and Dyeing: The Domestic Manufacturer's Assistant and Family Directory in the Arts of Weaving and Dyeing. New York: Dover Publications. p. 21.
  12. ^ "WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHAMBRAY AND DENIM?". Nenad SEO. 30 January 2023.
  13. ^ "Chambray vs Denim". Proper Cloth. 12 February 2014. Retrieved 4 August 2018.
  14. ^ a b c Le Robert: Dictionnaire historique de la langue française (in French). Vol. 1. Dictionnaires Le Robert. 2000. p. 352. ISBN 2-85036-532-7.
  15. ^ Archives historiques et littéraires du nord de la France, et du midi de la Belgique (in French). Au Bureau des Archives. 1829. pp. 341–.
  16. ^ France. Comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques. Section d'histoire et de philologie (1898). Bulletin historique et philologique du Comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques (in French). Impr. nationale. Pas plus une réalité historique que l'étymologique brasseur Cambrinus.
  17. ^ Société d'émulation de Cambrai (1859). Séance publique [afterw.] Mémoires (in French). pp. 1–. On ignore complètement le siècle où a vécu Jean-Baptiste Cambrai.
  18. ^ Max Pfister (1980). Einführung in die romanische Etymologie (in German). Wissenschaftliche Buchgesellschaft, [Abt. Verl.] ISBN 978-3-534-07834-9. Obschon Cambrai fûr die mittelalterliche Leinenindustrie bekannt ist und Baptiste sogar mit einem Denkmal geehrt wurde, dürfte dieser Fabrikant historisch nicht nachweisbar sein, da batiste etymologisch auf battre zurück geht.
  19. ^ Belfast Literary Society (1808). Select papers. p. 32. Cloth of this fabrick, lower than 5s. per yard, is called Lawn, above 5s., Cambrick.
  20. ^ Société des amis de la Romania (1900). Romania. Vol. 29. Société des amis de la Romania. p. 182.
  21. ^ Revue de l'enseignement des langues vivantes (in French). 1902. p. 304.
  22. ^ Bernardini, Michele (2004). "The Illustrations of a Manuscript of the Travel Account of François de la Boullaye le Gouz in the Library of the Accademia Nazionale dei Lincei in Rome". Muqarnas. 21: 64. doi:10.1163/22118993-90000054. Elle a une pièce de cambrésine sur son corps tellement fine que l'on voit à travers.
  23. ^ Académie française (1836). Dictionnaire de l'Académie française (in French). Firmin Didot frères. p. 135.
  24. ^ Guillaumin (Gilbert-Urbain, M.) (1839). Dictionnaire universel théorique et practique du commerce et de la navigation (in French). Guillaumin et Cie. p. 493. On a donné ce nom à des toiles fines d'Égypte, à cause de leur ressemblance avec la toile de Cambrai. Il y a aussi des cambrasines, que l'on tire de Smyrne; elles sont de deux sortes : celles qui viennent de la Perse, et celles apportées de la Mecque. Les premières conservent la dénomination de cambrasinbes; les secondes se nomment mamoudis.
  25. ^ Eliza Bailey Thompson (1917). The cotton and linen departments. Ronald press company. p. 63.
  26. ^ Bassett, Lynne Z. (2001). Textiles for Regency clothing 1800-1850: a workbook of swatches and information. Q Graphics Production Co. p. 28. ISBN 9780965819763.
  27. ^ Fowler Mohanty, Gail (Summer 1989). "Putting up with Putting-Out: Power-Loom Diffusion and Outwork for Rhode Island Mills, 1821-1829". Journal of the Early Republic. 9: 204, 206, 214.
  28. ^ Savary des Bruslons, Jacques (1741). Dictionnaire universel de commerce (in French). Vol. 1. Paris: Vve Estienne. p. 902. Sorte de toile de lin, très fine, & très blanche
  29. ^ a b Greene, Susan W. (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Vol. 1. Charles Scribner's sons. p. 217.
  30. ^ The Gentleman's magazine. F. Jefferies. 1759. p. 241.
  31. ^ Official descriptive and illustrated catalogue: Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of all Nations, 1851. By Authority of the Royal Commission. In 3 volumes. Spicer Brothers. 1851. p. 516.
  32. ^ George Ripley; Charles Anderson Dana (1859). The new American cyclopaedia: a popular dictionary of general knowledge. D. Appleton and Co. pp. 738–.
  33. ^ Denny, Grace Goldena (1923). Fabrics and How to Know Them. Lippincott. OCLC 2231068. In this century, [nainsook] is described as a soft-finished white cotton fabric with a polish on one side ... not so closely woven as cambric but heavier than batiste.
  34. ^ Philippine magazine. 1922. p. 382. Cambric is a fine calendered cotton or linen cloth of plain weave characterised by the smooth glossy surface.
  35. ^ Frank P. Bennett & Co (1914). A cotton fabrics glossary. Frank P. Bennett & co., inc. p. 125.
  36. ^ David Page Coffin (1998). Shirtmaking: developing skills for fine sewing. Taunton Press. p. 7. ISBN 978-1-56158-264-8.

External links edit

 
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cambric.
  • Article on cambric
  • The history of cambric's use in clothing
  • Article on why to wear cambric

February 15, 2024
cambric, confused, with, cambria, cambrian, cumbric, batiste, redirects, here, other, uses, batiste, disambiguation, look, cambric, wiktionary, free, dictionary, batiste, fine, dense, cloth, lightweight, plain, weave, fabric, originally, from, commune, cambrai. Not to be confused with Cambria Cambrian or Cumbric Batiste redirects here For other uses see Batiste disambiguation Look up cambric in Wiktionary the free dictionary Cambric or batiste is a fine dense cloth 1 It is a lightweight plain weave fabric originally from the commune of Cambrai in present day northern France woven greige neither bleached nor dyed then bleached piece dyed and often glazed or calendered Initially it was made of linen from the 18th and 19th centuries the term came to apply to cotton fabrics as well Embroidered cutwork on cambricMorning blouse made of cambricCorsage made of cambric 1898 Chambray is a similar fabric 2 with a coloured often blue or grey warp and white filling the name chambray replaced cambric in the United States in the early 19th century 3 Cambric is used as fabric for linens shirts handkerchiefs ruffs 4 lace and in cutwork and other needlework 5 6 Dyed black it is also commonly used as the dustcover on the underside of upholstered furniture 7 Contents 1 Description 2 History 3 See also 4 References 5 External linksDescription editCambric is a finely woven cloth with a plain weave and a smooth surface appearance the result of the calendering process It may be made of linen or cotton The fabric may be dyed any of many colours 8 Batiste is a kind of cambric 9 it is of similar texture but differently finished and made of cotton as well as of linen 10 Batiste also may be dyed or printed 9 Batiste is the French word for cambric and some sources consider them to be the same 8 but in English they are two distinct fabrics Chambray though the same type of fabric as cambric has a coloured warp and a white weft though it may be made from any colour as you may wish in the warp and also in the filling only have them differ from each other 11 Chambray differs from denim in that chambray s warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other while denim s warp thread will go over two threads in the weft before going under one 12 As a result the colour of chambray cloth is similar front and back while the reverse side of denim is lighter in colour 13 History editCambric was originally a kind of fine white plain weave linen cloth made at or near Cambrai 10 9 The word comes from Kameryk or Kamerijk the Flemish name of Cambrai 10 9 which became part of France in 1677 The word is attested since 1530 10 It is a synonym of the French word batiste 10 itself attested since 1590 14 Batiste itself comes from the Picard batiche attested since 1401 and derived from the old French battre for bowing wool The modern form batiste or baptiste comes from a popular merge with the surname Baptiste pronounced Batisse as indicated by the use of the expressions thoile batiche 1499 and toile de baptiste 1536 for the same fabric 14 The alleged 15 invention of the fabric around 1300 by a weaver called Baptiste or Jean Baptiste Cambray or Chambray from the village of Castaing in the peerage of Marcoing near Cambrai has no historic ground 14 16 17 18 Cambric was a finer quality and more expensive 19 than lawn from the French laune initially a plain weave linen fabric from the city of Laon in France 20 Denoting a geographic origin from the city of Cambrai or its surroundings Cambresis in French cambric is an exact equivalent 21 of the French cambresine kɑ bʁe zin 10 a very fine almost sheer white linen plain weave fabric 22 to be distinguished 23 from cambrasine a fabric comparable to the French lawn despite its foreign origin 24 nbsp A blue chambray fabric made of a blend of linen and cotton with blue warp and white fillingCambric is also similar to chambray ˈʃɒmbreɪ from a French regional variant of Cambrai 10 a name which also comes from Cambrai the French city where the material was originally made of linen yarn 25 Chambray also spelled chambrai appears in North American English in the early 19th century 10 Though the term generally refers to a cotton plain weave with a coloured warp and a white weft close to gingham silk chambray seems to have coexisted 26 Chambray was often produced during this period by the same weavers producing gingham 27 White linen cambric or batiste from Cambrai noted for its weight and lustre 28 was preferred for ecclesiastical wear fine shirts underwear shirt frills cravats collars and cuffs handkerchiefs and infant wear 29 Technical use sometime introduced a difference between cambric and batiste the latter being of a lighter weight and a finer thread count In the 18th century after the prohibition of imports into England of French cambrics 30 with the development of the import of Indian cotton fabrics similar 5 cotton fabrics such as nainsook from the Hindi nainsukh eyes delight 10 became popular These fabrics initially called Scotch cambrics to distinguish them from the original French cambrics 31 came to be referred to as cotton cambrics or batistes 29 Some authors increased the confusion with the assumption the word batiste could come from the Indian fabric bastas 32 In the 19th century the terms cambric and batiste gradually lost their association with linen implying only different kinds of fine plain weave fabrics with a glossy finish 33 34 In 1907 a fine cotton batiste had 100 ends per inch in the finished fabric while a cheap grade less than 60 35 At the same time with development of an interest in coloured shirts cambric was also woven in colours such as the pink fabric used by Charvet for a corsage reducing the difference between cambric and chambray Moreover the development and rationalization of mechanical weaving led to the replacement for chambray of coloured warp and white weft by the opposite white warp and coloured weft which allowed for longer warps 36 See also editGingham Lawn NainsookReferences edit Sir David Brewster 1814 Second American edition of the new Edinburgh encyclopaedia Published by Samuel Whiting and John L Tiffany and others pp 189 190 Extension of the Emergency Price Control Act of 1942 U S Government Printing Office 1944 p 823 Retrieved 14 July 2020 Bradley Linda Arthur 2014 Ethnic Dress in the United States Rowman amp Littlefield Publishers pp 67 68 ISBN 9780759121508 Westman Hab k O 1844 Transactions of the Society of Literary amp Scientific Chiffoniers New York Harper amp Brothers p 58 a b Elisabeth Hardouin Fugier Bernard Berthod Martine Chavent Fusaro 1994 Les etoffes dictionnaire historique in French Editions de l amateur p 120 ISBN 9782859171759 Betzina Sandra 2004 More Fabric Savvy A Quick Resource Guide to Selecting and Sewing Fabric Taunton Press ISBN 978 1 56158 662 2 Popular Mechanics Hearst Magazines December 1935 p 935 a b Mytum Harold ed 2018 Death Across Oceans Archaeology of Coffins and Vaults in Britain America and Australia Smithsonian ISBN 9781944466169 a b c d Chisholm Hugh ed 1911 Cambric Encyclopaedia Britannica Vol 5 11th ed Cambridge University Press p 89 a b c d e f g h i Oxford English Dictionary Bronson J and R 1977 First published in 1817 Early American Weaving and Dyeing The Domestic Manufacturer s Assistant and Family Directory in the Arts of Weaving and Dyeing New York Dover Publications p 21 WHAT S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHAMBRAY AND DENIM Nenad SEO 30 January 2023 Chambray vs Denim Proper Cloth 12 February 2014 Retrieved 4 August 2018 a b c Le Robert Dictionnaire historique de la langue francaise in French Vol 1 Dictionnaires Le Robert 2000 p 352 ISBN 2 85036 532 7 Archives historiques et litteraires du nord de la France et du midi de la Belgique in French Au Bureau des Archives 1829 pp 341 France Comite des travaux historiques et scientifiques Section d histoire et de philologie 1898 Bulletin historique et philologique du Comite des travaux historiques et scientifiques in French Impr nationale Pas plus une realite historique que l etymologique brasseur Cambrinus Societe d emulation de Cambrai 1859 Seance publique afterw Memoires in French pp 1 On ignore completement le siecle ou a vecu Jean Baptiste Cambrai Max Pfister 1980 Einfuhrung in die romanische Etymologie in German Wissenschaftliche Buchgesellschaft Abt Verl ISBN 978 3 534 07834 9 Obschon Cambrai fur die mittelalterliche Leinenindustrie bekannt ist und Baptiste sogar mit einem Denkmal geehrt wurde durfte dieser Fabrikant historisch nicht nachweisbar sein da batiste etymologisch auf battre zuruck geht Belfast Literary Society 1808 Select papers p 32 Cloth of this fabrick lower than 5s per yard is called Lawn above 5s Cambrick Societe des amis de la Romania 1900 Romania Vol 29 Societe des amis de la Romania p 182 Revue de l enseignement des langues vivantes in French 1902 p 304 Bernardini Michele 2004 The Illustrations of a Manuscript of the Travel Account of Francois de la Boullaye le Gouz in the Library of the Accademia Nazionale dei Lincei in Rome Muqarnas 21 64 doi 10 1163 22118993 90000054 Elle a une piece de cambresine sur son corps tellement fine que l on voit a travers Academie francaise 1836 Dictionnaire de l Academie francaise in French Firmin Didot freres p 135 Guillaumin Gilbert Urbain M 1839 Dictionnaire universel theorique et practique du commerce et de la navigation in French Guillaumin et Cie p 493 On a donne ce nom a des toiles fines d Egypte a cause de leur ressemblance avec la toile de Cambrai Il y a aussi des cambrasines que l on tire de Smyrne elles sont de deux sortes celles qui viennent de la Perse et celles apportees de la Mecque Les premieres conservent la denomination de cambrasinbes les secondes se nomment mamoudis Eliza Bailey Thompson 1917 The cotton and linen departments Ronald press company p 63 Bassett Lynne Z 2001 Textiles for Regency clothing 1800 1850 a workbook of swatches and information Q Graphics Production Co p 28 ISBN 9780965819763 Fowler Mohanty Gail Summer 1989 Putting up with Putting Out Power Loom Diffusion and Outwork for Rhode Island Mills 1821 1829 Journal of the Early Republic 9 204 206 214 Savary des Bruslons Jacques 1741 Dictionnaire universel de commerce in French Vol 1 Paris Vve Estienne p 902 Sorte de toile de lin tres fine amp tres blanche a b Greene Susan W 2005 Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion Vol 1 Charles Scribner s sons p 217 The Gentleman s magazine F Jefferies 1759 p 241 Official descriptive and illustrated catalogue Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of all Nations 1851 By Authority of the Royal Commission In 3 volumes Spicer Brothers 1851 p 516 George Ripley Charles Anderson Dana 1859 The new American cyclopaedia a popular dictionary of general knowledge D Appleton and Co pp 738 Denny Grace Goldena 1923 Fabrics and How to Know Them Lippincott OCLC 2231068 In this century nainsook is described as a soft finished white cotton fabric with a polish on one side not so closely woven as cambric but heavier than batiste Philippine magazine 1922 p 382 Cambric is a fine calendered cotton or linen cloth of plain weave characterised by the smooth glossy surface Frank P Bennett amp Co 1914 A cotton fabrics glossary Frank P Bennett amp co inc p 125 David Page Coffin 1998 Shirtmaking developing skills for fine sewing Taunton Press p 7 ISBN 978 1 56158 264 8 External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cambric Article on cambric The history of cambric s use in clothing Article on why to wear cambric Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Cambric amp oldid 1199947375, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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