Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has specialized in both competition climbing (lead and bouldering), and outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. He has been climbing for 30 years as a professional climber, a member of the Iranian National climbing team for many years, as a route setter in many national, continental, and world cups and championships, and Head Coach of the Iranian National climbing team for 6 years.^[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Artimes FarshadYeganeh
آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه

Personal information
Born	(1981-05-27) May 27, 1981 (age 42) Tehran, Iran
Education	Bachelor of Physical Education/Master Degree in Physical Education Management
Occupation(s)	Rock climber, Head Coach of Iranian climbing team for 9 years, Asian and IFSC Chief route setter
Height	177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight	61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing Sport climbing Bouldering
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8b+/8c  On-sight: 8a+ (5.13c) Bouldering: 8B (V13)
Medal record National Championships 2006 Lead 2002 Lead Groups Cup 2000 National Competition Fajr Championships 2006 National Competition 2002 International Competition 1998 National Competition Tehran Province Championships 2001 Lead 2002 Lead 2003 Lead 2004 Lead 2006 Lead 2007 Lead 2008 Lead 2009 Lead 2005 Lead 2010 Lead 2012 Lead 2013 Lead 2013 Bouldering 2014 Lead 2021 Lead Tehran Province League 2010 Lead 2011 Lead
Updated on 11 Dec 2014.

Biography

Artimes was elected as one of the five members among competition climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league's statute.^{[clarification needed][5][6][7]} Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club's representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.^[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.^[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters.^[11] He became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019 and Asian Chief Route Setter. He also became International Route Setter in 2020.He is only Iranian International Route Setter.

Positions

Here are some positions he has held:

• 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2009 – Tehran League founding member
• 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
• 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
• 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
• 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
• 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2017 — Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council
• 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
• 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
• 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
• 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
• 2020 — IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
• 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
• 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council.
• 2021 — Chair of Coaching Commission Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation

Coaching

Coaching certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
• Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching experience

Gym	Time
Emam Ali University	2003-2006
Army	2005-2006
Davoudi	2005-2008
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym	2005-current
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan	2012-current
Payam Climbing Gym	2015-current
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym	2016-2018
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach	2014-current

Route setting

Route Setting certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
• ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
• Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC  – Asian Continental Council 2017
• IFSC Junior  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
• IFSC International Route Setter  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
• Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC  – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
• Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC  – Asian Continental Council 2021
• IFSC International Chief Route Setter  – International Sport Climbing Route Setter 2023

Route setting experiences

• Chief Route Setter^[5]
• 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
• 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
• 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
• 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup international Competition
• 2013 – Route Setter– IFSC Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
• 2015 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
• 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Iran
• 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
• 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
• 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
• 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
• 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC World university Championships Slovakia
• 2018 – Route Setter – 18th Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
• 2018 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Totori, Japan
• 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
• 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
• 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
• 2019 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
• 2020 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Moscow, Russia
• 2021 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh, Russia
• 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Munich, Germany
• 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran , Iran
• 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championships Seoul , Korea
• 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran , Iran
• 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian K Championships Jamshedpur , India
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Chinese Team Training Camp Beijing ,China
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Games Test Event Hangzhou ,China
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran , Iran
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIIONSHIP Seoul , Korea
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran , Iran
• 2023 – Chief Route Setter – 19th Asian Games Hangzhou ,China

^[11]

Judging

Judging certificates

• IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge

Iran National Team memberships

• Junior National Team
  • 1999
• National Team
  • 2003
  • 2004 – China, Asian Championship
  • 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
  • 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
  • 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
  • 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]}

Ranks and medals

IFSC Climbing Worldcup

	2009	2007
Bouldering	29
Lead	26

^{[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]}

UIAA Asian Championships

	2005	2006
Lead	19	10

^{[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]}

Fajr championships

	1998	2002	2006
Lead	3	3	2

^[24]

National championships

	2002	2006
Lead	3	1

Tehran Province championships

	2001	2002	2003	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2012	2013	2014
Lead	1	1	1	1	2	1	1	1	1	2	2	2	2
Lead												2

^[5]

Tehran Province League

	2010	2011
Lead	1	1

^[25]

Groups Cup

	2000
Lead	2

Solo

• Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
• Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent

Climbing

Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:

Year	Name	Grade
1999	Mashallah	7c
1999	Alen	7b+/7c
2000	Iran Gate (SA)	8a+
2001	Safeh	8a
2002	Ghoul	7c+
2002	Nemat	7c
2002	Speed(FA)	7c
2002	Ashiane(FA)	8a
2003	Iran(FA)	7c+
2004	Iran Swiss	8a
2005	Khashol(FA)	7c
2006	Khoke chamosh(FA)	7c
2007	Ashianedoe(FA)	8a
2009	Solo(FA)	8a+
2010	Tehran Guy(FA)	7c
2011	Father & Son(FA)	7b+
2018	Marmolak	8a+
2018	Bargrizan	8a
2018	Ghij	7c+
2018	Shahin(Flash)	7c
2018	Push your must(FA)	7c+
2018	Pishadul(FA)	7c+
2019	Vampire(FA)	8b+
2019	Grezzly (FA)	8b
2019	Colony(FA)	8b+
2020	Sourkhpoost(Indian)	8a+
2020	Gladiator	8b+
2020	Merry Jain (FA)	8a+,8b
2020	Karimz(SA)	8b+
2021	Blue(TA)	8a

Roc Trips

• Petzl 2008
• Petzl 2009
• Petzl 2014

^[26]

Filmography

• Mashalla^[10]

Route

Here are some of the routes he bolted:

Year	Name	Grade
2006	Khashol	7c
2006	Pichol	project
2007	Khoke chamosh	7c+
2009	O+	7c
2008	Solo	8b
2008	Toxic	8a+
2009	Emperor project	?
2010	Tehran guys	8a
2011	Gladiator	8b+/8c
2011	Father and Son	7c
2013	Vampire	8b+
2014	Ati	7b+
2018	Colony	8b+
2018	Pishadul	7c+
2019	Surkhpoost (Indian)	8a
2020	Merry Jain	8a+/8b
2020	Kingdom	project

References

1. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
2. . Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
3. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
4. "آخرین نتایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
5. "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
6. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
7. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
8. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
9. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
10. "Mashalah {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
11. "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
12. . Digital Rock. 23 September 2005. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
13. . Digital Rock. 29 October 2006. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
14. . Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
15. "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
16. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
17. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
18. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
19. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
20. "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
21. . mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
22. "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
23. "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
24. "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
25. . Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Archived from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
26. . klettern. 29 August 2008. Archived from the original on 19 April 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.