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Angela Eiter

Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

Angela Eiter
Personal information
Nickname(s)Angy
NationalityAustrian
Born (1986-01-27) 27 January 1986 (age 37)
Arzl im Pitztal, Austria
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Weight46 kg (101 lb)
Websiteangelaeiter.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
First ascents
  • Madame Ching (9b, 2020)
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
World Games
2005 Duisburg Lead
World Championships
2005 Munich Lead
2007 Avilés Lead
2011 Arco Lead
2012 Paris Lead
World Cup
Winner 2004 Lead
Winner 2005 Lead
Winner 2006 Lead
Winner 2006 Combined
European Championships
2010 Imst/Innsbruck Lead
Rock Master
Winner 2003 Lead
Winner 2004 Lead
Winner 2005 Lead
Winner 2007 Lead
Winner 2009 Lead
Winner 2012 Lead
Updated on 8 May 2013.

Climbing career Edit

Competition climbing Edit

Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.

In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[1] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[2] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[3] She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[4] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[5] the 2011 edition in Arco,[6] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[7]

For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[8]

In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[9] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.

Rock climbing Edit

On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[10][11] On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade.[12][13] In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.[14][15]

Rankings Edit

Climbing World Cup Edit

Discipline 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 18 3 1 1 1 2 13 4 3 4 35
Bouldering - - - - 15 33 - - - - -
Combined - - - - 1 2 - - - - -

[16]

Climbing World Championships Edit

Discipline 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012
Lead 7 1 1 5 1 1
Bouldering - - 8 - - -

[17]

Climbing European Championships Edit

Discipline 2004 2006 2010
Lead 6 5 1

[17]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Edit

Lead Edit

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2002 0
2003 2 3 5
2004 4 1 5
2005 8 1 9
2006 7 1 1 9
2007 2 3 5
2008 1 1
2009 2 2
2010 2 2
2011 2 1 1 4
Total 25 13 4 42

[17]

Notable ascents Edit

Redpointed routes Edit

9b (5.15b):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Hercules - Götterwandl (AUT) - October 2014 - First ascent
  • Ingravids Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 2010[22]
  • Claudio Café - Terra Promessa (ITA) - 2007[23]

8c (5.14b):

Onsighted routes Edit

8b (5.13d):

Boulder problems Edit

8B (V13):

See also Edit

References Edit

  1. ^ "Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004". planetmountain.com. 23 November 2004. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  2. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (21 November 2005). "Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  3. ^ "World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj". planetmountain.com. 24 November 2006. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  4. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (4 July 2005). "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  5. ^ "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  6. ^ "Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco". planetmountain.com. 23 July 2011. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  7. ^ Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  8. ^ . rockmaster.com. Archived from the original on 21 January 2016. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  9. ^ . angelaeiter.com. 26 September 2008. Archived from the original on 21 September 2013. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  10. ^ a b . DPM Magazine. 14 October 2014. Archived from the original on 18 October 2014. Retrieved 16 October 2014.
  11. ^ a b "Angela Eiter climbs 9a: Hades at Götterwandl in Austria". PlanetMountain.com.
  12. ^ a b Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b". Retrieved 24 October 2017.
  13. ^ a b Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b". Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  14. ^ "Angy Eiter Completes 5.15b First Ascent (Story + Photo Gallery)". 17 December 2020.
  15. ^ "NEWSFLASH: 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter". www.ukclimbing.com. 16 December 2020.
  16. ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  17. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Eiter's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  18. ^ "Angy Eiter Sends New 5.15b with Madame Ching in Austria". Gripped Magazine. 17 December 2020. Retrieved 18 December 2020.
  19. ^ "Angy Eiter is Not Slowing Down". 10 July 2019.
  20. ^ "Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven climb 9a at Margalef in Spain". PlanetMountain.com.
  21. ^ "Angela Eiter climbs Big Hammer, her second 9a". PlanetMountain.com.
  22. ^ ukclimbing.com, ed. (27 November 2010). "Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension, 8c+".
  23. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (31 May 2007). "Arrampicata: Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffè 8c+".
  24. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (5 October 2009). . Archived from the original on 8 October 2009. Retrieved 25 October 2017.
  25. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (21 September 2006). "Angela Eiter vola a-vista verso Skyline 8b".
  26. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (26 August 2014). "Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa".

External links Edit

  • theCrag profile

angela, eiter, angela, angy, eiter, born, january, 1986, arzl, pitztal, austrian, professional, rock, climber, specialises, competition, climbing, sport, climbing, competition, lead, climbing, three, ifsc, world, cups, 2004, 2006, four, ifsc, world, championsh. Angela Angy Eiter born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing In competition lead climbing she won three IFSC World Cups in a row 2004 2006 and four IFSC World Championships In 2011 she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world and in 2017 became the first ever female in history to climb a 9b 5 15b route La Planta de Shiva In 2020 she became the first ever female in history to complete the first free ascent FFA of a 9b 5 15b route Madame Ching Angela EiterPersonal informationNickname s AngyNationalityAustrianBorn 1986 01 27 27 January 1986 age 37 Arzl im Pitztal AustriaOccupationProfessional rock climberHeight154 cm 5 ft 1 in Weight46 kg 101 lb Websiteangelaeiter wbr comClimbing careerType of climberCompetition climbing Sport climbing BoulderingHighest gradeRedpoint 9b 5 15b On sight 8b 5 13d Bouldering 8B V13 Known forWinning 3 World Cup and 4 World Championships First ever female to climb 9b 5 15b First ever female to do an FFA at 9b 5 15b First ascentsMadame Ching 9b 2020 Medal record Women s competition climbingRepresenting AustriaWorld Games2005 Duisburg LeadWorld Championships2005 Munich Lead2007 Aviles Lead2011 Arco Lead2012 Paris LeadWorld CupWinner 2004 LeadWinner 2005 LeadWinner 2006 LeadWinner 2006 CombinedEuropean Championships2010 Imst Innsbruck LeadRock MasterWinner 2003 LeadWinner 2004 LeadWinner 2005 LeadWinner 2007 LeadWinner 2009 LeadWinner 2012 LeadUpdated on 8 May 2013 Contents 1 Climbing career 1 1 Competition climbing 1 2 Rock climbing 2 Rankings 2 1 Climbing World Cup 2 2 Climbing World Championships 2 3 Climbing European Championships 3 Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup 3 1 Lead 4 Notable ascents 4 1 Redpointed routes 4 2 Onsighted routes 4 3 Boulder problems 5 See also 6 References 7 External linksClimbing career EditCompetition climbing Edit Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst At fifteen she climbed her first indoor 8a 5 13b In 2002 having reached the age of sixteen she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing In 2003 she won her first Cup race at Aprica Since then she has won three World Cups in a row in 2004 1 in 2005 winning eight out of nine events 2 and in 2006 winning seven out of ten events 3 She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty the 2005 edition in Munich 4 the 2007 edition in Aviles 5 the 2011 edition in Arco 6 and the 2012 edition in Paris 7 For her achievements she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006 8 In September 2008 during the third round of the World Cup in Bern she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery 9 She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months rehabilitation She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai Rock climbing Edit On September 6 2014 Eiter climbed the 9a 5 14d route Hades at Nassereith Austria She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher 10 11 On October 22 2017 she climbed La Planta de Shiva Villanueva del Rosario Spain widely considered to be a 9b 5 15b route becoming the world s first ever female to climb at grade 12 13 In 2020 she did the first free ascent FFA of Madame Ching which she named after Ching Shih in Imst Austria and suggested the grade of 9b 5 15b for it which would make it the world s first ever female FFA at that grade 14 15 Rankings EditSee also Best IFSC results Climbing World Cup Edit Discipline 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012Lead 18 3 1 1 1 2 13 4 3 4 35Bouldering 15 33 Combined 1 2 16 Climbing World Championships Edit Discipline 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012Lead 7 1 1 5 1 1Bouldering 8 17 Climbing European Championships Edit Discipline 2004 2006 2010Lead 6 5 1 17 Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup EditLead Edit Season Gold Silver Bronze Total2002 02003 2 3 52004 4 1 52005 8 1 92006 7 1 1 92007 2 3 52008 1 12009 2 22010 2 22011 2 1 1 4Total 25 13 4 42 17 Notable ascents EditRedpointed routes Edit 9b 5 15b La Planta de Shiva Villanueva del Rosario ESP October 22 2017 World s first ever female ascent of a 9b route 12 13 Madame Ching Tyrol AUT December 2020 World s first ever new 9b route created by a female 18 9a 5 14d Pure Dreaming Arco ITA June 2019 19 Era Vella Margalef ESP April 2015 20 Big Hammer Pinswang AUT November 2014 21 Hades Gotterwandl AUT September 6 2014 10 11 8c 5 14c Hercules Gotterwandl AUT October 2014 First ascent Ingravids Extension Santa Linya ESP November 2010 22 Claudio Cafe Terra Promessa ITA 2007 23 8c 5 14b White Zombie Baltzola Cave ESP 2009 24 Strelovod Misja Pec SLO 2008 Bodybuilding Burs AUT 2007 Nobody is Perfect Burs AUT 2007Onsighted routes Edit 8b 5 13d Skyline Burs AUT 2006 25 Boulder problems Edit 8B V13 Fragile steps Rocklands ZAF August 2014 26 See also EditList of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medalsReferences Edit Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004 planetmountain com 23 November 2004 Retrieved 8 May 2013 Vinicio Stefanello 21 November 2005 Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005 planetmountain com Retrieved 8 May 2013 World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj planetmountain com 24 November 2006 Retrieved 8 May 2013 Vinicio Stefanello 4 July 2005 Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions planetmountain com Retrieved 8 May 2013 IX Climbing World Championship Aviles full results planetmountain com 24 September 2007 Retrieved 8 May 2013 Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco planetmountain com 23 July 2011 Retrieved 8 May 2013 Franz Schiassi 17 September 2012 World Climbing Championships 2012 all the results from Paris planetmountain com Retrieved 8 May 2013 Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter top the Arco Rock Legends 2006 rockmaster com Archived from the original on 21 January 2016 Retrieved 23 May 2013 Climbing break for Angy Eiter after shoulder surgery angelaeiter com 26 September 2008 Archived from the original on 21 September 2013 Retrieved 8 May 2013 a b Angela Eiter Climbs Hades 5 14d DPM Magazine 14 October 2014 Archived from the original on 18 October 2014 Retrieved 16 October 2014 a b Angela Eiter climbs 9a Hades at Gotterwandl in Austria PlanetMountain com a b Planet Mountain ed Interview with Angela Eiter the first woman to climb 9b Retrieved 24 October 2017 a b Planet Mountain ed Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b Retrieved 23 October 2017 Angy Eiter Completes 5 15b First Ascent Story Photo Gallery 17 December 2020 NEWSFLASH 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter www ukclimbing com 16 December 2020 IFSC ed 20 August 2019 World Cup Rankings Retrieved 20 August 2019 a b c IFSC ed 20 August 2019 Eiter s profile and rankings Retrieved 20 August 2019 Angy Eiter Sends New 5 15b with Madame Ching in Austria Gripped Magazine 17 December 2020 Retrieved 18 December 2020 Angy Eiter is Not Slowing Down 10 July 2019 Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven climb 9a at Margalef in Spain PlanetMountain com Angela Eiter climbs Big Hammer her second 9a PlanetMountain com ukclimbing com ed 27 November 2010 Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension 8c planetmountain com ed 31 May 2007 Arrampicata Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffe 8c up climbing com ed 5 October 2009 Angela Eiter in gran forma Archived from the original on 8 October 2009 Retrieved 25 October 2017 planetmountain com ed 21 September 2006 Angela Eiter vola a vista verso Skyline 8b planetmountain com ed 26 August 2014 Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa External links Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Angela Eiter Official website Angela Eiter at the International Federation of Sport Climbing archive theCrag profile Angela Eiter on Instagram nbsp Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Angela Eiter amp oldid 1180629403, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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