Acitrón

The acitrón is a Mexican candy which is commonly used as a decoration on a three kings' cake. As an ingredient, it has great cultural significance since it is used in a large number of ritual and festive preparations.^[1] Unfortunately, the biznaga cactus from which acitróns are made is an endangered species due to excessive consumption.^[2]

Crystallized sweets in a Mexican market.

In Pre-Columbian Mexico, ancient peoples used the acitrón as a food source as well as for ritual purposes, according to artifacts found in caves near Tehuacán. Currently, the extraction and consumption of biznaga cactus pith to produce acitróns is a federal crime in Mexico.^[3]

Description

The biznaga cactus is actually several cacti in various genera of the family Cactaceae (specifically Ferocactus, Melocactus, and Echinocactus) found in the Americas, in a range stretching from Canada to Chile.^[4] They exist in several different shapes; those used to produce acitróns are generally globular or cylindrical. Acitróns are obtained by extracting the pith from the cactus and then putting it through a crystallizing process, which produces a sweet yellow or translucent cream, with a smooth texture on the inside and a firm layer on the outside. Once the process is complete, the acitrón has a sugar content of 70 to 75%.^[5][6]

The preparation of acitróns is traditional in Mexico, and they are typically used to produce other traditional dishes such as three kings' cake, chiles en nogada, or tamales.^[7]

Production

The production of an acitrón candy is difficult, since it is illegal to remove a biznaga cactus from its habitat.^[8] To produce one, the biznaga is cleaned by removing the spines and the outer layer of skin. Once it is cleaned, it is cut into small pieces and crystallized, substituting the water contained in the biznaga for sugar, by submerging it in syrup for long periods of time. Finally, it is dried so that the surface layer hardens.^[9] This process takes up to 48 hours, and the result is a solid, sweet, candy.^[10]

Biznaga cactus

 

Echinocactus platyacanthus, one of the biznaga cactus species from which pith is extracted to create acitrón candies.

Biznaga is the common name for cacti of the genus Ferocactus or Echinocactus, which had great importance to the Aztecs, since they used them for medicinal, religious, and nutritional purposes. They are characterized by having cylindrical or spherical shapes. In Pre-Columbian Mexico, the flower and pith of the cactus were used in various dishes alongside chilies and spices for sauces, beans, and corn. It was not until the colonial era that Spanish cooking techniques were imported to Mesoamerica, allowing for the acitrón to become a commonly produced and appreciated candy.^[7]

Echinocactus platyacanthus (also known as the candy barrel cactus) is one of the most popular cacti used to produce acitrón candies, due to their high concentration of saccharides and range stretching across Mexico.^[11]

Ecosystem

The biznaga family of cacti is endemic to the Americas, with its range extending from Canada to Argentina. The cacti primarily grow in hot, dry climates, such as broadleaf forests, grasslands, steppes, and deserts with an average temperature between 25 °C and 45 °C, and minimal precipitation for most of the year. They grow in rocky and clay-like soils, with thick but not very deep roots. This climate is common in the north of Mexico as well as in some small microclimates of states of the center of the country.^[4]

The biznaga family have evolved to have particular anatomical and physical properties which allow them to thrive in arid environments. Because they are succulents, the structure of their bodies allows them to accumulate a large amount of water in their tissues, and small, nearly nonexistent leaves reduce water loss via evapotranspiration. Photosynthesis occurs on the surface of their cylindrical bodies, and they flower only during periods of rain, generally with yellow inflorescences.^[1]

Conservation efforts

Biznaga cacti are characterized by slow growth, which reduces their availability for the production of acitrón candies. This, combined with a lack of cultivation, has caused the cacti to become scarce and consequently protected by Mexican federal law, with prohibitions on cutting, processing and sale of biznaga cacti.^[4] Due to uncontrolled extraction of biznaga pith, Mexican state governments have created ecological reserves, such as the Metztitlán Canyon Biosphere Reserve and the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve, whose purpose is the conservation of both animal and plant species in their own habitats.^[11]

Present day

In the Norma Oficial Mexicana (NOM-059-ECOL-2001), the biznaga cactus is listed as a protected species, despite its wide distribution in the central and northern regions of Mexico, because its populations are low and declining due to human impact.^[12]

Despite legal protections, the acitrón is commonly available in Mexican markets, particularly in states such as San Luis Potosí, Querétaro, Hidalgo, Puebla and Oaxaca, as well as in Mexico City. To avoid legal problems related to the extraction of the biznaga, only the cactus pith is transported in trucks to Mexico City. Once the shipments arrive, the candies are prepared by a small group of producers within the city, then exported to the other states. Thus, although the extraction of the biznaga is illegal, the traditional acitrón is still consumed in Mexico.^[11]

Culinary and cultural importance

The acitrón forms part of many traditional Mexican dishes. It is used in a Mexican variant of the thee king's cake, which is associated with and eaten on Epiphany, as well as in chiles en nogada, a dish usually associated with Mexican independence festivities. Other dishes created using acitróns remain popular in Mexico, and are often eaten in the Christmas season and during the feast days of Christian saints. These cultural and culinary traditions are a major difficulty in the protection of the biznaga cactus, since they cannot be made without the cactus pith.^[13]

Possible substitutes for biznaga acitróns

As a result of the prohibition of biznaga harvesting, large industries have sought substitutes for the ingredient instead.^[13] Examples of such substitutes include the quince cheese (a jelly made of the pulp of the quince fruit), industrially produced jellies, or crystallized green papaya or jícama, among others.^[14]

Bibliography

• Hefter, H (1995). Tecnología de los alimentos: Procesos físicos y químicos de la preparación de alimentos. México: Limusa.
• Eduards, W (2000). Las ciencias de las Golosinas. España: Acribia.
• Badui, S (2006). Química en los alimentos. Pesaron Educación.
• Norman, P (1992). La ciencia de los alimentos. México: Harla.
• Desrosier, N (1994). Conservación de alimentos. México: Continental.

References

1. Bravo, H; Schernvar, L (1995). El interesante mundo de las cactáceas. México: Fondo de cultura Económica.
2. "Acitrón, el dulce de la Rosca de Reyes que está condenando a la biznaga a la extinción". National Geographic en Español (in Mexican Spanish). 2021-01-05. Retrieved 2021-03-06.
3. "Acciones y Resultados de Protección a biznagas en 2019" [Actions and Results of Protection to Biznagas in 2019]. Gobierno de Mexico Procuraduria Federal de Proteccion al Ambiente (in Spanish). 2019-12-30. Retrieved 2021-03-06.
4. Guzmán, U; Dávila, P; Arias, S (2003). Catalogo de Cactáceas. UNAM-Conabio.
5. Verti, S (2001). Solo para Florivoros ¿Las Flores se comen?. México: Panorama.
6. Introducción a la bioquímica y tecnología de los alimentos. Vol. 1. España. 1992.{{cite encyclopedia}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
7. Mond, P (1999). Confitería y pastelería: manual de Formación. España.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
8. Curiel, J. L (2007). La dulcería Mexicana: Historia, Ciencia y Tecnología. México: Limusa.
9. Bali, Jaime (2008). México, Dulzura y Alegría. Lindero. ISBN 978-607-7590-00-2.
10. Enciclopedia de México (1. ed.). Planeta. 2008. ISBN 9789689520009. OCLC 429235498.
11. Jiménez-Sierra, Cecilia Leonor; Eguiarte, Luis E. (2010-06-01). "Candy Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus platyacanthus Link & Otto: A Traditional Plant Resource in Mexico Subject to Uncontrolled Extraction and Browsing". Economic Botany. 64 (2): 99–108. doi:10.1007/s12231-010-9119-y. ISSN 1874-9364. S2CID 24463711.
12. Secretaría de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales (2001). NOM-059-ECOL-2001. México.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
13. Picas, C; Vigata, A (1997). Técnicas de Pastelería, panadería y Conservación de Alimentos. España: Sintesis.
14. Alarcón, P; Zarte, R (2011). Claustro de Sor Juana (ed.). Elaboración de productos cristalizados como potencial sustituto del Acitrón.