The water knot (also tape knot, ring bend, grass knot, or overhand follow-through) is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling.
Water knot
Names
Water knot, Tape knot, Ring bend, Grass knot, Overhand follow through
It is tied by forming an overhand knot in one end and then following it with the other end, feeding in the opposite direction.
The ends should be left at least 7.5 centimetres (3.0 in) long and the knot should be "set" by tightening it with full body weight. The ends can be knotted, taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot.[1]
Variationsedit
The figure-8 water knot (or figure-8 bend or Flemish bend)[2] is based upon a figure-8 (or Flemish) knot instead of an overhand knot. It is easier to untie.
Usesedit
The knot can be used for joining flat materials such as leather or tape.[3]
Securityedit
Water knot before tightening
Once tied, for additional security each end should be tied in a double overhand stopper knot around the other standing end.
Some testing has shown that the water knot, in certain conditions, can slip very slightly but very consistently, with cyclic loading and unloading at relatively low forces; it is the tail on the exterior that slips (this would be the blue tail in the image presented here). In tests using 9/16in (14.3 mm) tubular nylon webbing, repeated loading and unloading with 250 lbs (113 kg) caused one of the 3in (76 mm) tails to work back into the knot in just over 800 loading cycles. Another test showed similar results for Spectra tape (but not for new, 1-inch tubular nylon). And yet the knot can be loaded to rupture without slippage. These results validate the need to leave adequate tails and inspect water knots before each use. With single overhand knot safeties on either end, the combination eventually seized and the slipping stopped.[4]
Although used extensively in climbing and caving, there is some opinion that the water knot is unsafe. According to Walter Siebert, several deaths have been reported due to failure of this knot (although, as in many failed-knot cases, the actual mechanism of failure is unknown, and only conjecture can be inferred). He demonstrates in a video how easily the knot can pull loose if snagged.[5] Siebert references an article from Pit Schubert in 1995 that details many deaths investigated where the water knot was used with webbing and failed. Schubert drew the conclusion after reviewing the remaining webbing and the sites where these falls took place that the knot can open if it catches on an edge or any protrusion.
However, these analyses fail to note that this uncommon vulnerability can lead to trouble only if (a) the knot will move much under load, so as to pull out enough tail to fail, and (b) the exterior strand is loaded from the top, resulting in a downwards pull by the interior strand (the red one, as shown here) that pulls it away from the snagged exterior strand.
To remove these failure conditions, orientate the knot in the opposite way --interior strand up, exterior strand down-- and place it high so as to minimize sideways movements.[6]
In Germany, the knot is sometimes called Todesknoten, which means death knot.[7]
^Grogono, Alan W. Grogono (Grog), David E. Grogono, Martin J. "Knots by Grog References - Knots Sources - Ashley Book of Knots". www.animatedknots.com. Retrieved 19 April 2018.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
^John 'Lofty' Wiseman SAS Survival Handbook, Revised Edition; William Morrow Paperbacks (2009) ISBN978-1875900060
^Tom Moyer, Water Knot Testing, 1999 International Technical Rescue Symposium, 1999. accessed 2007-04-07.)
^Archived at Ghostarchive and the : "Water knot = Death knot!". YouTube.
^Siebert, Walter (2002). [The Water Knot - an almost never-ending story] (PDF) (in German). Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2019. Retrieved 20 May 2020.
^Walter Siebert (2007), Deutscher Alpenverein; Österreichischer Alpenverein; Schweizer Alpen-Club (eds.), "Warten wir noch ein paar Tote ab" (PDF), Bergundsteigen (in German), no. 2/2007, Innsbruck, pp. 38-45, retrieved 5 March 2008
April 08, 2024
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The water knot also tape knot ring bend grass knot or overhand follow through is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together for instance when making a sling Water knotNamesWater knot Tape knot Ring bend Grass knot Overhand follow throughCategoryBendRelatedOverhand knot beer knot overhand bendTypical useTo join webbing for climbingCaveatEnds should be left long knot should be tightened and inspected before each use Difficult to untie ABoK 296 1412 343Instructionsanimatedknots com Contents 1 Tying 1 1 Variations 2 Uses 3 Security 4 See also 5 ReferencesTying editIt is tied by forming an overhand knot in one end and then following it with the other end feeding in the opposite direction The ends should be left at least 7 5 centimetres 3 0 in long and the knot should be set by tightening it with full body weight The ends can be knotted taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot 1 Variations edit The figure 8 water knot or figure 8 bend or Flemish bend 2 is based upon a figure 8 or Flemish knot instead of an overhand knot It is easier to untie Uses editThe knot can be used for joining flat materials such as leather or tape 3 Security edit nbsp Water knot before tighteningOnce tied for additional security each end should be tied in a double overhand stopper knot around the other standing end Some testing has shown that the water knot in certain conditions can slip very slightly but very consistently with cyclic loading and unloading at relatively low forces it is the tail on the exterior that slips this would be the blue tail in the image presented here In tests using 9 16 in 14 3 mm tubular nylon webbing repeated loading and unloading with 250 lbs 113 kg caused one of the 3 in 76 mm tails to work back into the knot in just over 800 loading cycles Another test showed similar results for Spectra tape but not for new 1 inch tubular nylon And yet the knot can be loaded to rupture without slippage These results validate the need to leave adequate tails and inspect water knots before each use With single overhand knot safeties on either end the combination eventually seized and the slipping stopped 4 Although used extensively in climbing and caving there is some opinion that the water knot is unsafe According to Walter Siebert several deaths have been reported due to failure of this knot although as in many failed knot cases the actual mechanism of failure is unknown and only conjecture can be inferred He demonstrates in a video how easily the knot can pull loose if snagged 5 Siebert references an article from Pit Schubert in 1995 that details many deaths investigated where the water knot was used with webbing and failed Schubert drew the conclusion after reviewing the remaining webbing and the sites where these falls took place that the knot can open if it catches on an edge or any protrusion However these analyses fail to note that this uncommon vulnerability can lead to trouble only if a the knot will move much under load so as to pull out enough tail to fail and b the exterior strand is loaded from the top resulting in a downwards pull by the interior strand the red one as shown here that pulls it away from the snagged exterior strand To remove these failure conditions orientate the knot in the opposite way interior strand up exterior strand down and place it high so as to minimize sideways movements 6 In Germany the knot is sometimes called Todesknoten which means death knot 7 See also editList of bend knots List of knotsReferences edit Craig Luebben Knots for Climbers Evergreen Colorado Chockstone Press 1993 19 Grogono Alan W Grogono Grog David E Grogono Martin J Knots by Grog References Knots Sources Ashley Book of Knots www animatedknots com Retrieved 19 April 2018 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint multiple names authors list link John Lofty Wiseman SAS Survival Handbook Revised Edition William Morrow Paperbacks 2009 ISBN 978 1875900060 Tom Moyer Water Knot Testing 1999 International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999 accessed 2007 04 07 Archived at Ghostarchive and the Wayback Machine Water knot Death knot YouTube Siebert Walter 2002 Der Band schlingen knoten eine beinahe unendliche Geschichte The Water Knot an almost never ending story PDF in German Archived from the original PDF on 4 August 2019 Retrieved 20 May 2020 Walter Siebert 2007 Deutscher Alpenverein Osterreichischer Alpenverein Schweizer Alpen Club eds Warten wir noch ein paar Tote ab PDF Bergundsteigen in German no 2 2007 Innsbruck pp 38 45 retrieved 5 March 2008 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Water knot amp oldid 1174894014, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
