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Tirsuli

Tirsuli is a Himalayan mountain peak in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of the complex of mountains, including Tirsuli West, Hardeol, Dunagiri, Changabang, and Kalanka, which make up the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, in the Garhwal Himalaya. It rises at the northern end of the Johar Valley, which drains into the Gori Ganga. This peak should not be confused with nearby Trisul, which is on the southwest side of the Sanctuary.

Tirsuli
Hardeol (left) and Tirsuli I, photo by Kurt Boeck in 1890
Highest point
Elevation7,074 m (23,209 ft)[1]
Prominence624 m (2,047 ft)[2]
Coordinates30°34′48″N 80°01′12″E / 30.58000°N 80.02000°E / 30.58000; 80.02000Coordinates: 30°34′48″N 80°01′12″E / 30.58000°N 80.02000°E / 30.58000; 80.02000[3]
Naming
English translationTrident
Geography
Tirsuli
Location in India
LocationPithoragarh district, Uttarakhand, India
Parent rangeKumaon Himalaya
Climbing
First ascent1966, N. Mallik(Dy.leader, S. Chakravorty, Tashi (Sherpa), Dorji (Sherpa)
Easiest routeEast Face of Southeast Ridge to Southeast Ridge: snow/ice climb

In 1939, a serious attempt on this peak by the successful Polish expedition to Nanda Devi East was abandoned after a night avalanche buried leader Adam Karpinski and climber Stefan Bernadzikiewicz at Camp 3.[4][5] Indian team led by Mohan Singh Kohli from Indian Mountaineering Foundation, under Ministry of Defence, Government of India tried an unsuccessful attempt to the peak in 1964. Another team led by K. P. Sharma and organized by Himalayan Association attempted the peak in 1965, but turned back from about 18,000 ft (5,500 m).[6][7][8] The peak was scaled for the first time on 9 October 1966 by another Indian team led by Chanchal Kumar Mitra & organised for the 2nd. time by Himalayan Association of calcutta. They ascended the east face of the south-east ridge and then took the south-east ridge to the top, mounting the summit bid from Camp 5, at about 21,860 ft (6,660 m). Nirapada Mallik (Dy.leader), Shyamal Chakrabarty, Nima Tashi ( former Dy.Director of training at The HMI Darjeeling) and Dorji sherpa were the summitters. Other members of the team were Manik Banerjee, K.K.Khanna, Marcopolo Srimal, Dr. Jungpangi from Geological Survey of India, Dr.Amitava Sen(M.O), Pinaki Sinha and Sailesh Chakraborty. The expedition was organised by the Himalayan Association, Kolkata.[9]

Expedition team

See also

References

  1. ^ Kumaon-Himalaya Ost (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research.
  2. ^ This is an approximate figure. See Kumaon-Himalaya Ost (map, 1:150,000), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  3. ^ The Alpine Club's Himalayan Index. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation quarterly Newsletter No.16 gives a slightly different figure.
  4. ^ Jill Neate, High Asia: An illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, 0-89886-238-8, p. 89.
  5. ^ Himalayan Journal Vol. 12, p. 65.
  6. ^ Himalayan Association Journal, Vol. 2.
  7. ^ Joydeep Sircar, Himalayan handbook, Calcutta, 1979.
  8. ^ Himalayan Mountaineering Journal, Vol. 1, No.2, p. 73.
  9. ^ Himalayan Journal 27, p. 67.


tirsuli, himalayan, mountain, peak, pithoragarh, district, uttarakhand, india, part, complex, mountains, including, west, hardeol, dunagiri, changabang, kalanka, which, make, northeast, wall, nanda, devi, sanctuary, garhwal, himalaya, rises, northern, johar, v. Tirsuli is a Himalayan mountain peak in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand India It is part of the complex of mountains including Tirsuli West Hardeol Dunagiri Changabang and Kalanka which make up the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in the Garhwal Himalaya It rises at the northern end of the Johar Valley which drains into the Gori Ganga This peak should not be confused with nearby Trisul which is on the southwest side of the Sanctuary TirsuliHardeol left and Tirsuli I photo by Kurt Boeck in 1890Highest pointElevation7 074 m 23 209 ft 1 Prominence624 m 2 047 ft 2 Coordinates30 34 48 N 80 01 12 E 30 58000 N 80 02000 E 30 58000 80 02000 Coordinates 30 34 48 N 80 01 12 E 30 58000 N 80 02000 E 30 58000 80 02000 3 NamingEnglish translationTridentGeographyTirsuliLocation in IndiaLocationPithoragarh district Uttarakhand IndiaParent rangeKumaon HimalayaClimbingFirst ascent1966 N Mallik Dy leader S Chakravorty Tashi Sherpa Dorji Sherpa Easiest routeEast Face of Southeast Ridge to Southeast Ridge snow ice climbIn 1939 a serious attempt on this peak by the successful Polish expedition to Nanda Devi East was abandoned after a night avalanche buried leader Adam Karpinski and climber Stefan Bernadzikiewicz at Camp 3 4 5 Indian team led by Mohan Singh Kohli from Indian Mountaineering Foundation under Ministry of Defence Government of India tried an unsuccessful attempt to the peak in 1964 Another team led by K P Sharma and organized by Himalayan Association attempted the peak in 1965 but turned back from about 18 000 ft 5 500 m 6 7 8 The peak was scaled for the first time on 9 October 1966 by another Indian team led by Chanchal Kumar Mitra amp organised for the 2nd time by Himalayan Association of calcutta They ascended the east face of the south east ridge and then took the south east ridge to the top mounting the summit bid from Camp 5 at about 21 860 ft 6 660 m Nirapada Mallik Dy leader Shyamal Chakrabarty Nima Tashi former Dy Director of training at The HMI Darjeeling and Dorji sherpa were the summitters Other members of the team were Manik Banerjee K K Khanna Marcopolo Srimal Dr Jungpangi from Geological Survey of India Dr Amitava Sen M O Pinaki Sinha and Sailesh Chakraborty The expedition was organised by the Himalayan Association Kolkata 9 Expedition teamSee also EditList of mountains in IndiaReferences Edit Kumaon Himalaya Ost map 1 150 000 Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research This is an approximate figure See Kumaon Himalaya Ost map 1 150 000 Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research The Alpine Club s Himalayan Index The Indian Mountaineering Foundation quarterly Newsletter No 16 gives a slightly different figure Jill Neate High Asia An illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks The Mountaineers 1989 0 89886 238 8 p 89 Himalayan Journal Vol 12 p 65 Himalayan Association Journal Vol 2 Joydeep Sircar Himalayan handbook Calcutta 1979 Himalayan Mountaineering Journal Vol 1 No 2 p 73 Himalayan Journal 27 p 67 This article related to a location in the Indian state of Uttarakhand is a stub You can help Wikipedia by expanding it vte Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Tirsuli amp oldid 1059852216, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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