The oldest name for the peak is probably Butterweck ("Bread and butter") or Butterweckfels, because the summit bears a certain resemblance to a bread roll when seen from a distance, such as from the other bank of the Elbe. The name Teufelsturm was already being used by Wilhelm Leberecht Götzinger in his descriptions of Saxon Switzerland, where he mentioned it as a sundial by the farmers on the plateaux around Schöna and Reinhardtsdorf. The shadow thrown by the Teufelsturm on the rock face behind it - when seen from the direction of Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna - disappears around midday exactly behind the rock tower, which is therefore also called the Mittagstein or Mittagfels (i.e. "Midday Rock"). Another name is Campanile, probably derived from similarly named summits in the Dolomites and the Brenta, so-named because of their smooth rock faces and generally rectangular structure of the tower. The name most used today, Teufelsturm ("Devil's Tower") probably arose due to the difficulty of climbing the rock tower.[2]
Rock climbingedit
At the beginning of the 20th century, the Teufelsturm was one of the most difficult climbing rocks in Saxon Switzerland. On 9 September 1906, Oliver Perry-Smith made the first successful ascent on the Alter Weg, today classified as climbing grade VIIb or, without support, VIIc (Saxon scale). This achievement was the high point of the first development period for the Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region[3] and was then described as "the most difficult climbing in Saxon Switzerland".[4]
In the 1930s, the valley side (Talseite) of the Teufelsturm was seen as one of the last, great, sport climbing challenges in Saxon Switzerland, after initial attempts, including one by Emanuel Strubich, had come to naught in the 1920s. In 1936, Rudolf Stolle finally climbed it for the first time. Today it is graded as a VIIIb climb.[5] Its ascent remains disputed, because the first climber, both in the lower section as well as at the key point, used a safety ring and thus supported himself over the key point (he used a human climbing tree (Steigbaum).
An important first climb was the ascent in 1965 of the Ostwand ("East Face", grade VIIIc) by Kurt Richter. In the 1970s and 1980s, Bernd Arnold climbed the Sonnenuhr (1977, IXa) and the Teufelei (1984, Xa) routes, whose difficulties made them among the top achievements of their day.
The most important route has to be the Pferdefuß. First conquered in 1984 by Werner Schönlebe, it runs along a prominent edge and is climbed in red point style and is classified as grade Xc.
In 2007, Heinz Zak first used a Highline from the Teufelsturm to the neighbouring massif,[6] which led to discussions about the sense and purpose of trendy types of sport in Saxon Switzerland.[7]
teufelsturm, saxon, switzerland, teufelsturm, also, butterweckfels, mittagstein, prominent, rock, tower, climbing, rock, formed, elbe, sandstone, about, forty, metres, high, saxon, switzerland, northeastern, germany, located, east, river, elbe, upper, edge, va. The Teufelsturm also Butterweckfels or Mittagstein is a prominent rock tower and climbing rock formed of Elbe Sandstone about forty metres high in Saxon Switzerland in northeastern Germany It is located east of the River Elbe on the upper edge of the valley between Schmilka and Bad Schandau in the Schrammsteinen The Teufelsturm is also referred to as the Symbol of Saxon Climbing 1 The Teufelsturm Contents 1 Origin of the name 2 Rock climbing 3 References 4 Sources 5 External linksOrigin of the name editThe oldest name for the peak is probably Butterweck Bread and butter or Butterweckfels because the summit bears a certain resemblance to a bread roll when seen from a distance such as from the other bank of the Elbe The name Teufelsturm was already being used by Wilhelm Leberecht Gotzinger in his descriptions of Saxon Switzerland where he mentioned it as a sundial by the farmers on the plateaux around Schona and Reinhardtsdorf The shadow thrown by the Teufelsturm on the rock face behind it when seen from the direction of Reinhardtsdorf Schona disappears around midday exactly behind the rock tower which is therefore also called the Mittagstein or Mittagfels i e Midday Rock Another name is Campanile probably derived from similarly named summits in the Dolomites and the Brenta so named because of their smooth rock faces and generally rectangular structure of the tower The name most used today Teufelsturm Devil s Tower probably arose due to the difficulty of climbing the rock tower 2 Rock climbing editAt the beginning of the 20th century the Teufelsturm was one of the most difficult climbing rocks in Saxon Switzerland On 9 September 1906 Oliver Perry Smith made the first successful ascent on the Alter Weg today classified as climbing grade VIIb or without support VIIc Saxon scale This achievement was the high point of the first development period for the Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region 3 and was then described as the most difficult climbing in Saxon Switzerland 4 In the 1930s the valley side Talseite of the Teufelsturm was seen as one of the last great sport climbing challenges in Saxon Switzerland after initial attempts including one by Emanuel Strubich had come to naught in the 1920s In 1936 Rudolf Stolle finally climbed it for the first time Today it is graded as a VIIIb climb 5 Its ascent remains disputed because the first climber both in the lower section as well as at the key point used a safety ring and thus supported himself over the key point he used a human climbing tree Steigbaum An important first climb was the ascent in 1965 of the Ostwand East Face grade VIIIc by Kurt Richter In the 1970s and 1980s Bernd Arnold climbed the Sonnenuhr 1977 IXa and the Teufelei 1984 Xa routes whose difficulties made them among the top achievements of their day The most important route has to be the Pferdefuss First conquered in 1984 by Werner Schonlebe it runs along a prominent edge and is climbed in red point style and is classified as grade Xc In 2007 Heinz Zak first used a Highline from the Teufelsturm to the neighbouring massif 6 which led to discussions about the sense and purpose of trendy types of sport in Saxon Switzerland 7 References edit Richter 1993 p 96 98 Heinicke S 176 Richter 1962 p 75 Fehrmann p 221 Heinicke p 179 Highline auf den Teufelsturm Climbing de Alle Infos fur Bergsteiger und Kletterer Archived from the original on 2011 08 23 Retrieved 2011 04 26 Sachsische Schweiz im Elbsandsteingebirge Archived from the original on 2011 09 15 Retrieved 2011 04 26 Sources editRudolf Fehrmann Der Bergsteiger in der Sachsischen Schweiz Verlagsanstalt Johannes Siegel Dresden 1908 Dietmar Heinicke Gesamtredaktion Kletterfuhrer Sachsische Schweiz Band Schrammsteine Schmilkaer Gebiet Berg amp Naturverlag Peter Rolke Dresden 1999 ISBN 3 934514 01 4 Frank Richter Klettern im Elbsandsteingebirge Bruckmann Verlag 1993 Kurt B Richter Der Sachsische Bergsteiger Sportverlag Berlin 1962External links editRock information by the German Alpine Club on the Teufelsturm Photograph of the Alter Weg on the Teufelsturm Heinz Zak on the Highline to the Teufelsturm50 54 19 55 N 14 13 7 48 E 50 9054306 N 14 2187444 E 50 9054306 14 2187444 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Teufelsturm Saxon Switzerland amp oldid 1106049605, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
