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Marek Holeček

Marek Holeček (born 5 November 1974) is a Czech mountaineer, explorer, author and documentary filmmaker. Holeček has received the 2018 Piolet d'Or[1] award for his successful full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák, which he achieved in Alpine style.[2]

Marek Holeček
Holeček in 2018
Personal information
NationalityCzech
Born (1974-11-05) 5 November 1974 (age 49)
Prague, Czechoslovakia
Websitemarekholecek.cz
Climbing career
Known forFirst climb Gasherbrum I Southwest face
First ascents

„My body has been systematically tortured for years in achieving one important skill for staying in the mountains, the art of hardship."[3]

Awards and honors edit

  • 2018 Piolet d'Or award for full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák.[4][5]
  • Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent of 2017 – first ascent to the eight-thousander Gasherbrum I. in Alpine style. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hák
  • Nomination for the Piolet d'Or 2014 Prize (F & I)[6][7] for the first ascent to Talung (7,348 m), Nepal. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hrubý
  • Honorable recognition at Golden Piton Award [fr] in 2006[8] (GB) for the first-ascent to Meru Central (6,310 m), India
  • Czech Mountaineering Association honorable recognition – 1997, 1999, 2001, 2012, 2014
  • Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent – 2000, 2002, 2003, 2006, 2008, 2013

Gasherbrum I SW Face, Piolet d'Or Award 2018 edit

It took Holeček five attempts to finally complete his new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I, situated in the Baltoro region of Pakistan's Karakorum. Holeček succeeded together with his co-climber Zdeněk Hák on 30 July 2017.[9][5] They named the new route Satisfaction! and they climbed it in pure Alpine style.[10][11]

The route was rated ED+, M7, WI 5+, total inclination 70°.

In September 2018, they received the 2018 Piolet d'Or Award.[1][12][13]

 
Gasherbrum I, HiddenPeak

"Satisfaction!" Journey edit

In 2009 he climbed up the lefthand ice couloir in the central section of the face of Gasherbrum. Together with his climbing partner, Zdeněk Hrubý, he solved the first crux of the mixed terrain, an unclear passage from the couloir to the col, through the rock bottleneck at 7,400 meters, after their second bivy. The next day they reached 7,500 m to the base of the rock barrier, but they were forced to escape which resulted in 2,000 m of rappelling and down climbing. Hrubý suffered from perforated ulcers.[14][15]

In 2013, the attempt ended tragically for Zdeněk Hrubý who slipped and tumbled to his death, taking all their climbing gear with him.[16][17][18]

Next followed the 2015 attempt, where Holeček reached 7,400 m with Tomáš Petreček and had to retreat in the midst of avalanches and bad weather.[19][20]

In 2016, together with Ondřej Mandula, they reached 7,700 m, but they were pinned down at 7,500 m with no way to escape for eight days. By the time they got down, Holeček sustained frostbite on his feet, resulting in more than six months of recovery.[21][22][23]

Expeditions edit

Major Ascents edit

  • August 2019 - Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte – 6360m, name of the route: Boys 1970, North face, length of ascent: 1200m, climbed in 2 days, M6, WI6, Alpine style, climbing partner: Radoslav Groh[24]
  • May 2019 – Nepal, Himalayas, Chamlang – 7,321 m, name of the route: UFO Line, north-west face of Chamlang, length of ascent: 2,000 m, climbed in 6 days, ABO, Alpine style, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hák[25][26]
  • May 2018 – Nepal, Central Himalayas, Kyazo Ri – 6,186 m, name of the route: Lapse of Reason, start from the W face and finish on the E through the summit head, M6, WI 4+, 3+UIAA, ED+, length of ascent: 1,600 m, Alpine style, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hák[27][28]
  • January 2018 – Antarctica, Palmer Archipelago, Winkle Island, Monte Pizduch (1000 m a.s.l.), name of the route: Bloody Nose,[29][30] SW wall, ED+ (M4/W15+) in one place 95°, length of ascent: 850 m, Alpine style, climbing partner: Mirek Dub
  • July 2017 – Pakistan, Gasherbrum I. – 8,080 m, name of the route: Satisfaction!,[31][32][33] SW wall, ED+ (M7, WI5+), slope 70°, length of ascent: 3,000 m, Alpine style, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hák, 2018 Piolet d'Or award
  • January 2014 – Antarctica, Palmer Archipelago, Region Anvers Island, Monte Samila – 1,500 m,[34][35] name of the route: Abdul's Blazing Calves, J wall WI5, slope 70°, Alpine style, length of ascent 1,700 m, climbing partner: Vladislav Nosek, Vladislav Jošt
  • May 2013 – Nepal, Eastern Himalayas, Kanchenjunga region, Talung – 7,343 m, name of the route: Thumba Party,[36][37] North Pillar (M6, W16), length of ascent: 2,100 m, duration of ascent: seven days, Alpine style, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý, nomination for the Piolets d'Or 2014 Prize (F & I)
  • September 2008 – Afghanistan, Vachán, Ishmurch Valley, Kohe Uparisina – 6,260 m, name of the route: Sweet 65,[38] NW notch,(W15), slope 70°, length of ascent: 1,600 m, duration of ascent: four days, Alpine style, climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
  • July 2008 – Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, Kapura Peak – 6,200 m, name of the route: Wild Wings, West Peak, NW notch (WI5+ M7), slope 70°, length of ascent 1,300 m, duration of ascent: three days, Alpine style, climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
  • September – October 2006 – India, Garhwal Himalaya, Mt. Meru – 6,310 m, name of the route: Filka's Heavenly Laugh,[39][40] NE wall – (7a M5) 80°, duration of ascent 13 days, Alpine style, length of ascent 2,000 m, climbing partner: Jan Kreisinger, honorable recognition at the Golden Piton Awards 2006 (GB)[41]
  • October – November 2005 – Nepal, Central Himalaya, Kyashar – 6,750 m, name of the route: Ramro Chaina,[42] SE wall (M6+ WI6), length of ascent 1,900 m, duration of ascent: five days to the eastern saddle reaching 6,500 m, Alpine style, climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
  • July – August 2003 – Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay – 3,850 m, name of the route: Otik's Victory (Ochtakurova paběda), N wall (7b A4), length of ascent: 750 m, duration of ascent: five days, Alpine style, climbing partners: David Šťastný, Otakar Vašek
  • July – August 2002 – Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, PIK 4,810 – 4,810 m, name of the route: Otik's Wet Dream, NW wall (7b+/7c), length of ascent: 1,200 m, duration of ascent: eight days, Alpine style, climbing partners: Václav Šatava, Pavel Jonák
  • July – August 2000 – Chile, Patagonia, Cerro Paine Grande – 2,460 m, name of the route: Macaroni Porridge Junction, E wall (7a A3+), length of ascent: 1,300 m, duration of ascent: 8 days, Alpine style, climbing partners: David Šťastný, Filip Šilhan

Other Ascents edit

  • August 2018 – Pakistan, Himalayas, Nanga Parbat – 8,125 m, attempt to ascent the top of Nanga Parbat by the Southern Rupal Wall, the ascent ended at 7,600 m due to bad weather, climbing partner: Tomáš Petreček
  • August 2016 – Pakistan, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I.[43] – 8,080 m, fourth attempt to first ascent the SW wall, due to unfavorable weather, they were trapped for eight days at an altitude of 7,700 m, climbing partner: Ondřej Mandula[44]
  • August 2015 – Pakistan, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I.[45] – 8,080 m, third attempt to first ascent the SW wall, due to unfavorable weather, they were trapped for six days at an altitude of 7,400 m, climbing partner: Tomáš Petreček[46]
  • August 2013 – Pakistan, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. – 8,080 m, expedition Never Stop Exploring – Gasherbrum I. 8,080 m, second attempt to first ascent the SW wall, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý (he died on the descent on August 7, 2013)[47][48]
  • July 2012 – Pakistan, Himalayas, Nanga Parbat – 8,125 m, expedition: Wild Choice Comeback – Nanga Parbat 2012, ascended to the top of "Kinshofer route", duration of ascent: 11 days (from 5,800 m Alpine style), climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý[49]
  • July – August 2011 – Pakistan, Himalayas, Nanga Parbat – 8,125 m, expedition: Wild Choice – Nanga Parbat 2011, attempt by Marek Holeček to solo ascent to the top of Nanga Parbat by the Southern Rupal Wall, the ascent ended 800 meters below the summit due to bad weather, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
  • February 2010 – Argentina, Andy, Aconcagua – 6,962 m, name of route: Polish Glacier- right, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
  • 2009 – Pakistan, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. – 8,080 m, name of route: Japanese Swing from 1986, NW wall, vertical rise from BC 2,950 m, duration of ascent: four days, solo ascent
  • August 2009 – Pakistan, Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I.'[50] – 8,068 m, SW wall – attempted first ascent, climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
  • January – February 2001 – CHILE, Patagonia, Escudo – 2,600 m, name of route: The Dream, first repetition, E wall (6b A4+), length of ascent: 1,200 m, duration of ascent: 20 days, Alpine style, climbing partners: Tomáš Rinn and Tomáš Sobotka
  • February 1998 – FRANCE, Alps, Grandes Jorasses, name of the route: MacIntyre – Colton, 1976 from Colton/MacIntyre, N wall, ED2 A1 VI/6 90°, length of ascent: 1,150 m, duration of ascent: three days, climbing partner: Tomáš Rinn
  • June 1997 – France, Alps, Grandes Jorasses, name of the route: Manitua 1991 from Svetičič, N wall (7+ A3+) 70°, length of ascent: 1,150 m, climbed six days, Alpine style, climbing partner: Tomáš Rinn
  • July 1997 – India, Garhwal, Mt. Meru – 6,310 m, N wall, attempted first ascent, climbing partner: Filip Šilhán

Publications edit

  • Marek Holeček: Dotknout se nebe – Zápisky Marouška blázna, 1. edition, November, 2018, Computer Press, 256 pages, ISBN 978-80-264-2243-3
  • Marek Holeček: České himalájské dobrodružství II – Zápisky Marouška blázna, 1. edition, Universum Praha, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-80-242-5107-3
  • Jiří Novák: Himálaj a Karakoram – československé a české prvovýstupy, 1. edition, Alpy Praha, November 2015, ISBN 978-80-85613-54-4

Movies edit

  • 2003: Sen, directed by Jiří Kratochvíl, movie about climbing in Yosemite
  • 2007: Tous Européens! (French)
  • 2009: Dotknout se nebe, TV documentary
  • 2011: Chytnout nebe za kšandy, TV documentary
  • 2016: The Elements, directed by Tomáš Galásek[51]

References edit

  1. ^ a b "2018 Honoured ascents".
  2. ^ "Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák win the Piolet d'Or, the Oscar of mountain sports". Lezec.
  3. ^ Marek Holeček - Hyde Park Civilizace | Česká televize (in Czech), retrieved 14 July 2023
  4. ^ "Four climbs and one person to be recognized at 2018 Piolets d'Or in Ladek, Poland".
  5. ^ a b "Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák". planetmountain.com. 11 August 2017.
  6. ^ "Bramborova hvezda".
  7. ^ "Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list".
  8. ^ "Golden Piton Awards 2006".
  9. ^ "New Line on Gasherbrum I SW Face by Holeček and Hàkelease # 3 - July 2018". ukclimbing.com. 18 August 2017.
  10. ^ "Marek Holeček na vrcholu Gašerbrumu: Jsem tady, i s dokončeným snem, takže prd bída!". reflex.cz. 21 August 2017.
  11. ^ "Satisfaction: Five Epic Expeditions and Finally Success on Gasherbrum I's Southwest Face". Americanalpineclub.org.
  12. ^ "Press Release # 3 - July 2018" (PDF). pioletsdor.net. July 2018.
  13. ^ "2018 Piolet d'Or Winners Announced". Rockandice.com. 6 August 2018.
  14. ^ "Marek Holeček a Zdeněk Hrubý". radiozurnal.rozhlas.cz. 17 September 2009.
  15. ^ "Horolezec Zdeněk Hrubý přežil Gasherbrum I. a už má další plány". irozhlas.cz. 21 October 2009.
  16. ^ "V Pákistánu tragicky zahynul šéf českých horolezců Zdeněk Hrubý". ceskatelevize.cz. 10 August 2013.
  17. ^ "Czech Climber Zdenek Hruby Died on Gasherbrum I". Altitude.com. 10 August 2013.
  18. ^ "Zemřel horolezec Hrubý. Zdeněk uklouznul a zřítil se, potvrdil Holeček". Lidovky.cz. 10 August 2013.
  19. ^ "Marek Holecek y Tomas Petrecek vuelven al CB tras diez días a 7.300 m en el G1". desnivel.com. 19 August 2015.
  20. ^ "Tomáš Petreček má za sebou nejnáročnější expedici v životě". ostrava.rozhlas.cz. 8 September 2015.
  21. ^ "V zóně smrti jsme čekali 10 dní, málem jsem umrzl, říká horolezec Holeček". idnes.cz. 8 September 2016.
  22. ^ "Horolezec Mára Holeček se vrátil z Gašerbrumu: Bylo to peklo a očistec v jednom". wave.rozhlas.cz. 6 September 2016.
  23. ^ "Gasherbrum I, Southwest Face, Attempt on New Route". AAJ.
  24. ^ "Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru". 12 August 2019.
  25. ^ "ERSTBEGEHUNG AM CHAMLANG". bergsteigen.com. 19 June 2019.
  26. ^ "Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal". planetmountain.com. 11 June 2019.
  27. ^ "Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal". planetmountain.com. 24 August 2018.
  28. ^ "'Lapse of Reason', la nueva vía de Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hak en el Kyajo Ri". desnivel.com. 27 August 2018.
  29. ^ "Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch".
  30. ^ "Marek Holecek y Míra Dub, aventura y primera ascensión en la Antártida". 19 February 2018.
  31. ^ "Marek Holeček o zrodu cesty Satisfaction!". 14 August 2017.
  32. ^ "Czech climbers realize 'Satisfaction' on Gasherbrum's southwest face".
  33. ^ "Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák".
  34. ^ "Marek Holeček: Akci Never Stop Exploring jsem zakončil prvovýstupem v Antarktidě". 16 February 2014.
  35. ^ "První stopy na Samici milé aneb prvovýstup v Antarktidě".
  36. ^ "Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hruby ascienden la cara norte del Talung en estilo alpino". 31 July 2013.
  37. ^ "Holecek and Hruby climb north face of Talung in alpine-style".
  38. ^ "Sweet 65´".
  39. ^ "Fámy a fakta kolem Filkova nebeského smíchu".
  40. ^ "El cielo sonrió en el Meru Central". 30 October 2006.
  41. ^ "Golden Piton Award".
  42. ^ Holecek, Marek. "Prvovýstup na Kyashar".
  43. ^ "Mára Holeček a Ondra Mandula znovu na Gasherbrum I".
  44. ^ "Marek Holecek y Ondra Mandula llegan al CB del G-I dos semanas después". 12 August 2016.
  45. ^ "Expedice Wild Challenge 2015, Marek Holeček".
  46. ^ "Marek Holecek y Tomas Petrecek vuelven al CB tras diez días a 7.300 m en el G1". 19 August 2015.
  47. ^ "Rekviem pro Zdendu".
  48. ^ "El alpinista checo Zdenek Hruby muere en el G1". 12 August 2013.
  49. ^ "Press conference, Marek Holeček, Nanga Parbat 2012".
  50. ^ "Expedice Gasherbrum I".
  51. ^ "The Elements". YouTube.

External links edit

  • Official website
  • Videochannel on Youtube.com
  • Před půlnocí TV show with Marek Holeček on Czech Television
  • Casablanca show with Marek Holeček on Czech Radio

marek, holeček, born, november, 1974, czech, mountaineer, explorer, author, documentary, filmmaker, holeček, received, 2018, piolet, award, successful, full, ascent, southwest, face, gasherbrum, with, zdeněk, hák, which, achieved, alpine, style, holeček, 2018p. Marek Holecek born 5 November 1974 is a Czech mountaineer explorer author and documentary filmmaker Holecek has received the 2018 Piolet d Or 1 award for his successful full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdenek Hak which he achieved in Alpine style 2 Marek HolecekHolecek in 2018Personal informationNationalityCzechBorn 1974 11 05 5 November 1974 age 49 Prague CzechoslovakiaWebsitemarekholecek wbr czClimbing careerKnown forFirst climb Gasherbrum I Southwest faceFirst ascentsPeru Huandoy Norte Nepal Chamlang Nepal Kyazo Ri Antarctica Monte Pizduch Pakistan Gasherbrum I Antarctica Monte Samila Nepal Talung Afghanistan Kohe Uparisina Pakistan Kapura Peak India Mt Meru Nepal Kyashar Kyrgyzstan Pamir Alay 4810m Kyrgyzstan Pamir Alay 3850m Chile Cerro Paine Grande Pakistan Amin Brak Peru Huandoy North My body has been systematically tortured for years in achieving one important skill for staying in the mountains the art of hardship 3 Contents 1 Awards and honors 2 Gasherbrum I SW Face Piolet d Or Award 2018 2 1 Satisfaction Journey 3 Expeditions 3 1 Major Ascents 3 2 Other Ascents 4 Publications 5 Movies 6 References 7 External linksAwards and honors edit2018 Piolet d Or award for full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdenek Hak 4 5 Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent of 2017 first ascent to the eight thousander Gasherbrum I in Alpine style Co climber Zdenek Hak Nomination for the Piolet d Or 2014 Prize F amp I 6 7 for the first ascent to Talung 7 348 m Nepal Co climber Zdenek Hruby Honorable recognition at Golden Piton Award fr in 2006 8 GB for the first ascent to Meru Central 6 310 m India Czech Mountaineering Association honorable recognition 1997 1999 2001 2012 2014 Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent 2000 2002 2003 2006 2008 2013Gasherbrum I SW Face Piolet d Or Award 2018 editIt took Holecek five attempts to finally complete his new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I situated in the Baltoro region of Pakistan s Karakorum Holecek succeeded together with his co climber Zdenek Hak on 30 July 2017 9 5 They named the new route Satisfaction and they climbed it in pure Alpine style 10 11 The route was rated ED M7 WI 5 total inclination 70 In September 2018 they received the 2018 Piolet d Or Award 1 12 13 nbsp Gasherbrum I HiddenPeak Satisfaction Journey edit In 2009 he climbed up the lefthand ice couloir in the central section of the face of Gasherbrum Together with his climbing partner Zdenek Hruby he solved the first crux of the mixed terrain an unclear passage from the couloir to the col through the rock bottleneck at 7 400 meters after their second bivy The next day they reached 7 500 m to the base of the rock barrier but they were forced to escape which resulted in 2 000 m of rappelling and down climbing Hruby suffered from perforated ulcers 14 15 In 2013 the attempt ended tragically for Zdenek Hruby who slipped and tumbled to his death taking all their climbing gear with him 16 17 18 Next followed the 2015 attempt where Holecek reached 7 400 m with Tomas Petrecek and had to retreat in the midst of avalanches and bad weather 19 20 In 2016 together with Ondrej Mandula they reached 7 700 m but they were pinned down at 7 500 m with no way to escape for eight days By the time they got down Holecek sustained frostbite on his feet resulting in more than six months of recovery 21 22 23 Expeditions editMajor Ascents edit August 2019 Peru Cordillera Blanca Huandoy Norte 6360m name of the route Boys 1970 North face length of ascent 1200m climbed in 2 days M6 WI6 Alpine style climbing partner Radoslav Groh 24 May 2019 Nepal Himalayas Chamlang 7 321 m name of the route UFO Line north west face of Chamlang length of ascent 2 000 m climbed in 6 days ABO Alpine style climbing partner Zdenek Hak 25 26 May 2018 Nepal Central Himalayas Kyazo Ri 6 186 m name of the route Lapse of Reason start from the W face and finish on the E through the summit head M6 WI 4 3 UIAA ED length of ascent 1 600 m Alpine style climbing partner Zdenek Hak 27 28 January 2018 Antarctica Palmer Archipelago Winkle Island Monte Pizduch 1000 m a s l name of the route Bloody Nose 29 30 SW wall ED M4 W15 in one place 95 length of ascent 850 m Alpine style climbing partner Mirek Dub July 2017 Pakistan Gasherbrum I 8 080 m name of the route Satisfaction 31 32 33 SW wall ED M7 WI5 slope 70 length of ascent 3 000 m Alpine style climbing partner Zdenek Hak 2018 Piolet d Or award January 2014 Antarctica Palmer Archipelago Region Anvers Island Monte Samila 1 500 m 34 35 name of the route Abdul s Blazing Calves J wall WI5 slope 70 Alpine style length of ascent 1 700 m climbing partner Vladislav Nosek Vladislav Jost May 2013 Nepal Eastern Himalayas Kanchenjunga region Talung 7 343 m name of the route Thumba Party 36 37 North Pillar M6 W16 length of ascent 2 100 m duration of ascent seven days Alpine style climbing partner Zdenek Hruby nomination for the Piolets d Or 2014 Prize F amp I September 2008 Afghanistan Vachan Ishmurch Valley Kohe Uparisina 6 260 m name of the route Sweet 65 38 NW notch W15 slope 70 length of ascent 1 600 m duration of ascent four days Alpine style climbing partner Jan Doudlebsky July 2008 Pakistan Karakoram Charakusa Valley Kapura Peak 6 200 m name of the route Wild Wings West Peak NW notch WI5 M7 slope 70 length of ascent 1 300 m duration of ascent three days Alpine style climbing partner Jan Doudlebsky September October 2006 India Garhwal Himalaya Mt Meru 6 310 m name of the route Filka s Heavenly Laugh 39 40 NE wall 7a M5 80 duration of ascent 13 days Alpine style length of ascent 2 000 m climbing partner Jan Kreisinger honorable recognition at the Golden Piton Awards 2006 GB 41 October November 2005 Nepal Central Himalaya Kyashar 6 750 m name of the route Ramro Chaina 42 SE wall M6 WI6 length of ascent 1 900 m duration of ascent five days to the eastern saddle reaching 6 500 m Alpine style climbing partner Jan Doudlebsky July August 2003 Kyrgyzstan Pamir Alay 3 850 m name of the route Otik s Victory Ochtakurova pabeda N wall 7b A4 length of ascent 750 m duration of ascent five days Alpine style climbing partners David Stastny Otakar Vasek July August 2002 Kyrgyzstan Pamir Alay PIK 4 810 4 810 m name of the route Otik s Wet Dream NW wall 7b 7c length of ascent 1 200 m duration of ascent eight days Alpine style climbing partners Vaclav Satava Pavel Jonak July August 2000 Chile Patagonia Cerro Paine Grande 2 460 m name of the route Macaroni Porridge Junction E wall 7a A3 length of ascent 1 300 m duration of ascent 8 days Alpine style climbing partners David Stastny Filip SilhanOther Ascents edit August 2018 Pakistan Himalayas Nanga Parbat 8 125 m attempt to ascent the top of Nanga Parbat by the Southern Rupal Wall the ascent ended at 7 600 m due to bad weather climbing partner Tomas Petrecek August 2016 Pakistan Eastern Karakoram Abruzzi Glacier Gasherbrum I 43 8 080 m fourth attempt to first ascent the SW wall due to unfavorable weather they were trapped for eight days at an altitude of 7 700 m climbing partner Ondrej Mandula 44 August 2015 Pakistan Eastern Karakoram Abruzzi Glacier Gasherbrum I 45 8 080 m third attempt to first ascent the SW wall due to unfavorable weather they were trapped for six days at an altitude of 7 400 m climbing partner Tomas Petrecek 46 August 2013 Pakistan Eastern Karakoram Abruzzi Glacier Gasherbrum I 8 080 m expedition Never Stop Exploring Gasherbrum I 8 080 m second attempt to first ascent the SW wall climbing partner Zdenek Hruby he died on the descent on August 7 2013 47 48 July 2012 Pakistan Himalayas Nanga Parbat 8 125 m expedition Wild Choice Comeback Nanga Parbat 2012 ascended to the top of Kinshofer route duration of ascent 11 days from 5 800 m Alpine style climbing partner Zdenek Hruby 49 July August 2011 Pakistan Himalayas Nanga Parbat 8 125 m expedition Wild Choice Nanga Parbat 2011 attempt by Marek Holecek to solo ascent to the top of Nanga Parbat by the Southern Rupal Wall the ascent ended 800 meters below the summit due to bad weather climbing partner Zdenek Hruby February 2010 Argentina Andy Aconcagua 6 962 m name of route Polish Glacier right climbing partner Zdenek Hruby 2009 Pakistan Eastern Karakoram Abruzzi Glacier Gasherbrum I 8 080 m name of route Japanese Swing from 1986 NW wall vertical rise from BC 2 950 m duration of ascent four days solo ascent August 2009 Pakistan Karakoram Abruzzi Glacier Gasherbrum I 50 8 068 m SW wall attempted first ascent climbing partner Zdenek Hruby January February 2001 CHILE Patagonia Escudo 2 600 m name of route The Dream first repetition E wall 6b A4 length of ascent 1 200 m duration of ascent 20 days Alpine style climbing partners Tomas Rinn and Tomas Sobotka February 1998 FRANCE Alps Grandes Jorasses name of the route MacIntyre Colton 1976 from Colton MacIntyre N wall ED2 A1 VI 6 90 length of ascent 1 150 m duration of ascent three days climbing partner Tomas Rinn June 1997 France Alps Grandes Jorasses name of the route Manitua 1991 from Sveticic N wall 7 A3 70 length of ascent 1 150 m climbed six days Alpine style climbing partner Tomas Rinn July 1997 India Garhwal Mt Meru 6 310 m N wall attempted first ascent climbing partner Filip SilhanPublications editMarek Holecek Dotknout se nebe Zapisky Marouska blazna 1 edition November 2018 Computer Press 256 pages ISBN 978 80 264 2243 3 Marek Holecek Ceske himalajske dobrodruzstvi II Zapisky Marouska blazna 1 edition Universum Praha 2015 256 pages ISBN 978 80 242 5107 3 Jiri Novak Himalaj a Karakoram ceskoslovenske a ceske prvovystupy 1 edition Alpy Praha November 2015 ISBN 978 80 85613 54 4Movies edit2003 Sen directed by Jiri Kratochvil movie about climbing in Yosemite 2007 Tous Europeens French 2009 Dotknout se nebe TV documentary 2011 Chytnout nebe za ksandy TV documentary 2016 The Elements directed by Tomas Galasek 51 References edit a b 2018 Honoured ascents Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak win the Piolet d Or the Oscar of mountain sports Lezec Marek Holecek Hyde Park Civilizace Ceska televize in Czech retrieved 14 July 2023 Four climbs and one person to be recognized at 2018 Piolets d Or in Ladek Poland a b Gasherbrum I SW Face big new route by Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak planetmountain com 11 August 2017 Bramborova hvezda Piolets d Or 2014 the big list Golden Piton Awards 2006 New Line on Gasherbrum I SW Face by Holecek and Hakelease 3 July 2018 ukclimbing com 18 August 2017 Marek Holecek na vrcholu Gaserbrumu Jsem tady i s dokoncenym snem takze prd bida reflex cz 21 August 2017 Satisfaction Five Epic Expeditions and Finally Success on Gasherbrum I s Southwest Face Americanalpineclub org Press Release 3 July 2018 PDF pioletsdor net July 2018 2018 Piolet d Or Winners Announced Rockandice com 6 August 2018 Marek Holecek a Zdenek Hruby radiozurnal rozhlas cz 17 September 2009 Horolezec Zdenek Hruby prezil Gasherbrum I a uz ma dalsi plany irozhlas cz 21 October 2009 V Pakistanu tragicky zahynul sef ceskych horolezcu Zdenek Hruby ceskatelevize cz 10 August 2013 Czech Climber Zdenek Hruby Died on Gasherbrum I Altitude com 10 August 2013 Zemrel horolezec Hruby Zdenek uklouznul a zritil se potvrdil Holecek Lidovky cz 10 August 2013 Marek Holecek y Tomas Petrecek vuelven al CB tras diez dias a 7 300 m en el G1 desnivel com 19 August 2015 Tomas Petrecek ma za sebou nejnarocnejsi expedici v zivote ostrava rozhlas cz 8 September 2015 V zone smrti jsme cekali 10 dni malem jsem umrzl rika horolezec Holecek idnes cz 8 September 2016 Horolezec Mara Holecek se vratil z Gaserbrumu Bylo to peklo a ocistec v jednom wave rozhlas cz 6 September 2016 Gasherbrum I Southwest Face Attempt on New Route AAJ Marek Holecek Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru 12 August 2019 ERSTBEGEHUNG AM CHAMLANG bergsteigen com 19 June 2019 Chamlang UFO Line Marek Holecek reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal planetmountain com 11 June 2019 Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal planetmountain com 24 August 2018 Lapse of Reason la nueva via de Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hak en el Kyajo Ri desnivel com 27 August 2018 Antarctica first ascent Marek Holecek and Mira Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch Marek Holecek y Mira Dub aventura y primera ascension en la Antartida 19 February 2018 Marek Holecek o zrodu cesty Satisfaction 14 August 2017 Czech climbers realize Satisfaction on Gasherbrum s southwest face Gasherbrum I SW Face big new route by Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak Marek Holecek Akci Never Stop Exploring jsem zakoncil prvovystupem v Antarktide 16 February 2014 Prvni stopy na Samici mile aneb prvovystup v Antarktide Marek Holecek y Zdenek Hruby ascienden la cara norte del Talung en estilo alpino 31 July 2013 Holecek and Hruby climb north face of Talung in alpine style Sweet 65 Famy a fakta kolem Filkova nebeskeho smichu El cielo sonrio en el Meru Central 30 October 2006 Golden Piton Award Holecek Marek Prvovystup na Kyashar Mara Holecek a Ondra Mandula znovu na Gasherbrum I Marek Holecek y Ondra Mandula llegan al CB del G I dos semanas despues 12 August 2016 Expedice Wild Challenge 2015 Marek Holecek Marek Holecek y Tomas Petrecek vuelven al CB tras diez dias a 7 300 m en el G1 19 August 2015 Rekviem pro Zdendu El alpinista checo Zdenek Hruby muere en el G1 12 August 2013 Press conference Marek Holecek Nanga Parbat 2012 Expedice Gasherbrum I The Elements YouTube External links editOfficial website Videochannel on Youtube com Pred pulnoci TV show with Marek Holecek on Czech Television Casablanca show with Marek Holecek on Czech Radio Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Marek Holecek amp oldid 1168731670, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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