Julie Tullis (née Palau) (15 March 1939 – 6/7 August 1986) was a British climber and filmmaker who died while descending from K2's summit during a storm, along with four other climbers from several expeditions, during the "Black Summer" of 1986.
Julie was born to Erica and Francis Palau. Her early life was disrupted by the outbreak of World War II. In 1956, she began climbing near Tunbridge Wells, where she met Terry Tullis. In 1959, they were married and spent the following years running various small businesses. They also continued climbing, in addition to which Julie studied traditional Japanese martial arts, under David Passmore in the Budokan school, Tunbridge Wells. She occasionally practised karate forms in traditional hakama when climbing.
Mountaineering careeredit
Tullis met Austrian climber Kurt Diemberger in 1976, and by 1980 they were working together on lecture tours. In 1981, Diemberger hired Tullis as a technician for an expedition to Nanga Parbat, and their high-altitude filming career began. It would include, in the following years, expeditions to the North ridge of K2 and the unclimbed North-East ridge of Mount Everest. In 1984, Tullis and Diemberger climbed Broad Peak, and after more film work they went on an expedition to climb K2, in 1986, becoming part of the 1986 K2 disaster.
Although Tullis and Diemberger finally made the summit on 4 August 1986, making Tullis the first British woman to do so, they were exhausted from spending several days above 8,000 metres; 26,000' (known as the death zone). On the descent, Tullis slipped and fell; although Diemberger's belay successfully saved them both, it is likely that Tullis suffered internal or head injuries that began to affect her vision and co-ordination.[citation needed] Arriving at Camp IV they were trapped in their tents by a storm that lasted for several days. All the trapped climbers deteriorated physically and mentally, lacking food, sleep, oxygen and, once the gas for the stoves ran out, the ability to melt snow and produce water. This, in turn, made them vulnerable to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, which in Tullis' condition would have been rapidly fatal. Tullis died on the night of 6/7 August (the accounts of Diemberger and another climber present, Willi Bauer, differ on the date) and was buried on the mountainside.
Notesedit
In 2005, an audio cassette tape diary recorded by Tullis in 1982 was recovered from the glacier below K2.[1]
Referencesedit
Diemberger, Kurt (1991). The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. Translated by Salkeld, Audrey. ISBN0-89886-300-7.
Audrey Salkeld, ‘Tullis, Julia Elissa May (1939–1986)’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, 2004
^Lane, Megan (27 October 2006). "Home Counties to Himalayas". BBC News. Retrieved 5 March 2014.
January 01, 1970
julie, tullis, née, palau, march, 1939, august, 1986, british, climber, filmmaker, died, while, descending, from, summit, during, storm, along, with, four, other, climbers, from, several, expeditions, during, black, summer, 1986, contents, early, life, mountai. Julie Tullis nee Palau 15 March 1939 6 7 August 1986 was a British climber and filmmaker who died while descending from K2 s summit during a storm along with four other climbers from several expeditions during the Black Summer of 1986 Contents 1 Early life 2 Mountaineering career 3 Notes 4 ReferencesEarly life editJulie was born to Erica and Francis Palau Her early life was disrupted by the outbreak of World War II In 1956 she began climbing near Tunbridge Wells where she met Terry Tullis In 1959 they were married and spent the following years running various small businesses They also continued climbing in addition to which Julie studied traditional Japanese martial arts under David Passmore in the Budokan school Tunbridge Wells She occasionally practised karate forms in traditional hakama when climbing Mountaineering career editTullis met Austrian climber Kurt Diemberger in 1976 and by 1980 they were working together on lecture tours In 1981 Diemberger hired Tullis as a technician for an expedition to Nanga Parbat and their high altitude filming career began It would include in the following years expeditions to the North ridge of K2 and the unclimbed North East ridge of Mount Everest In 1984 Tullis and Diemberger climbed Broad Peak and after more film work they went on an expedition to climb K2 in 1986 becoming part of the 1986 K2 disaster Although Tullis and Diemberger finally made the summit on 4 August 1986 making Tullis the first British woman to do so they were exhausted from spending several days above 8 000 metres 26 000 known as the death zone On the descent Tullis slipped and fell although Diemberger s belay successfully saved them both it is likely that Tullis suffered internal or head injuries that began to affect her vision and co ordination citation needed Arriving at Camp IV they were trapped in their tents by a storm that lasted for several days All the trapped climbers deteriorated physically and mentally lacking food sleep oxygen and once the gas for the stoves ran out the ability to melt snow and produce water This in turn made them vulnerable to pulmonary or cerebral oedema which in Tullis condition would have been rapidly fatal Tullis died on the night of 6 7 August the accounts of Diemberger and another climber present Willi Bauer differ on the date and was buried on the mountainside Notes editIn 2005 an audio cassette tape diary recorded by Tullis in 1982 was recovered from the glacier below K2 1 References editDiemberger Kurt 1991 The Endless Knot K2 Mountain of Dreams and Destiny Translated by Salkeld Audrey ISBN 0 89886 300 7 Greig Andrew 2002 Kingdoms of Experience ISBN 1 84195 376 8 Jordan Jennifer 2006 Savage Summit True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2 ISBN 0 06 058716 4 Tullis Julie 1986 Clouds From Both Sides ISBN 0 246 12771 6 Audrey Salkeld Tullis Julia Elissa May 1939 1986 Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Oxford University Press 2004 Lane Megan 27 October 2006 Home Counties to Himalayas BBC News Retrieved 5 March 2014 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Julie Tullis amp oldid 1216590221, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
