The Dent du Géant remained unclimbed during the golden age of alpinism, and was a much-coveted peak in the 1870s, repelling many parties who attempted it mostly from the Rochefort ridge. In 1880 the strong team of Albert F. Mummery and Alexander Burgener tried to force a passage via the south-west face but were repelled by a band of slabs, causing Mummery to exclaim, 'Absolutely inaccessible by fair means!'[2]
The mountain has two summits, 88 feet (27 m) apart and separated by a small col (an 'extremely awkward notch' according to W. W. Graham):[3]
Pointe Sella (4,009 m), first ascent via the south-west face by Jean Joseph Maquignaz with son Baptiste Maquignaz and nephew, Daniel Maquignaz on 28 July 1882. Over a period of four days they placed iron stanchions and fixed ropes,[4] enabling the same party to climb Pointe Sella a second time on the following day with clients Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella and Gaudenzio Sella.
Pointe Graham (4,013 m), first ascent by W. W. Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse Payot on 20 August 1882. They used the fixed ropes of "Sella's staircase" to repeat the ascent of Pointe Sella, where Graham noted that one of the Maquignazes had carved the letter 'M' on a rock step. They then lowered themselves 12 metres (39 ft) into the col to climb this higher north-east peak.[4]
The Dent du Géant is the dark pinnacle on the right-hand end of the Rochefort ridge
On 28 July 1935 the Austrian climbers Herbert Burggasser and Rudi Leitz first ascended the vertical-to-overhanging 160 m-high south face. It was the first climb in the Western Alps systematically aided by the pitons and artificial techniques that were already in use by climbers in the Eastern Alps.[5]
During a heat wave in the summer of 2019, a glaciological rarity in the form of a previously unseen lake emerged at the foot of the Dent du Géant, the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Col de Rochefort at an altitude of about 3400 meters, that was considered as evidence for the effects of global warming on the glaciers in the Alps.[6][7][8]
^Quoted in Dumler, Helmut and Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps, London: Diadem, 1994, p. 179
^Graham, W. W., 'The Dent du Géant', Alpine Journal XI; reprinted in Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, ed. W. Unsworth, London: Allen Lane, 1981, pp. 73–7. Graham gives the date of his first attempt as 14 August and of his successful ascent as 20 August; Dumler curiously gives 14 August as the date of the first ascent.
^ abWilly Blaser and Glyn Hughes, Kabru 1883, a reassessment 2012-05-12 at the Wayback Machine, Alpine Journal, 2009, p. 219
^Lindsay Griffin, Huber free solos south face of the Géant, alpinist.com, October 5, 2006
^Climat : un lac s'est formé sur le Mont Blanc à 3 000 mètres d’altitude - Un lac a été découvert sur le Mont Blanc, à un peu plus de 3 000 mètres d'altitude, entre la Dent du Géant et le Col de Rochefort
^A Hiker Found This Beautiful Lake In The Alps. There's Just One Small Problem
^La formation d'un lac dans le massif du Mont-Blanc est-elle liée au réchauffement climatique?
External linksEdit
The Dent du Géant on SummitPost
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dent du Géant.
October 21, 2023
dent, géant, dente, gigante, giant, tooth, mountain, mont, blanc, massif, france, italy, italian, dente, gigantethe, sharp, pinnacle, left, western, rochefort, ridge, centre, highest, pointelevation4, prominence139, isolation1, coordinates45, 86194, 95167, 861. The Dent du Geant It Dente del Gigante giant s tooth 4 013 m is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy Dent du Geant in Italian Dente del GiganteThe sharp pinnacle of the Dent du Geant left at the western end of the Rochefort ridge centre Highest pointElevation4 013 m 13 166 ft Prominence139 m 456 ft 1 Isolation1 2 km 0 75 mi Coordinates45 51 43 N 6 57 6 E 45 86194 N 6 95167 E 45 86194 6 95167GeographyDent du GeantHaute Savoie France ItalyParent rangeGraian AlpsClimbingFirst ascent20 August 1882 by William Woodman Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse PayotEasiest routeSouth west face AD The Dent du Geant remained unclimbed during the golden age of alpinism and was a much coveted peak in the 1870s repelling many parties who attempted it mostly from the Rochefort ridge In 1880 the strong team of Albert F Mummery and Alexander Burgener tried to force a passage via the south west face but were repelled by a band of slabs causing Mummery to exclaim Absolutely inaccessible by fair means 2 The mountain has two summits 88 feet 27 m apart and separated by a small col an extremely awkward notch according to W W Graham 3 Pointe Sella 4 009 m first ascent via the south west face by Jean Joseph Maquignaz with son Baptiste Maquignaz and nephew Daniel Maquignaz on 28 July 1882 Over a period of four days they placed iron stanchions and fixed ropes 4 enabling the same party to climb Pointe Sella a second time on the following day with clients Alessandro Sella Alfonso Sella Corradino Sella and Gaudenzio Sella Pointe Graham 4 013 m first ascent by W W Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse Payot on 20 August 1882 They used the fixed ropes of Sella s staircase to repeat the ascent of Pointe Sella where Graham noted that one of the Maquignazes had carved the letter M on a rock step They then lowered themselves 12 metres 39 ft into the col to climb this higher north east peak 4 This ascent marked the end of the so called silver age of alpinism The Dent du Geant is the dark pinnacle on the right hand end of the Rochefort ridgeOn 28 July 1935 the Austrian climbers Herbert Burggasser and Rudi Leitz first ascended the vertical to overhanging 160 m high south face It was the first climb in the Western Alps systematically aided by the pitons and artificial techniques that were already in use by climbers in the Eastern Alps 5 During a heat wave in the summer of 2019 a glaciological rarity in the form of a previously unseen lake emerged at the foot of the Dent du Geant the Aiguilles Marbrees and the Col de Rochefort at an altitude of about 3400 meters that was considered as evidence for the effects of global warming on the glaciers in the Alps 6 7 8 The following facilities serve the mountain Torino Hut 3 375 m CAI all year Pointe Helbronner 3 462 m telepherique station for Skyway Monte Bianco See also Edit nbsp Alps portalList of 4000 metre peaks of the AlpsReferences Edit Mountains above 4000 meter in the Alps Quoted in Dumler Helmut and Willi P Burkhardt The High Mountains of the Alps London Diadem 1994 p 179 Graham W W The Dent du Geant Alpine Journal XI reprinted in Peaks Passes and Glaciers ed W Unsworth London Allen Lane 1981 pp 73 7 Graham gives the date of his first attempt as 14 August and of his successful ascent as 20 August Dumler curiously gives 14 August as the date of the first ascent a b Willy Blaser and Glyn Hughes Kabru 1883 a reassessment Archived 2012 05 12 at the Wayback Machine Alpine Journal 2009 p 219 Lindsay Griffin Huber free solos south face of the Geant alpinist com October 5 2006 Climat un lac s est forme sur le Mont Blanc a 3 000 metres d altitude Un lac a ete decouvert sur le Mont Blanc a un peu plus de 3 000 metres d altitude entre la Dent du Geant et le Col de Rochefort A Hiker Found This Beautiful Lake In The Alps There s Just One Small Problem La formation d un lac dans le massif du Mont Blanc est elle liee au rechauffement climatique External links EditThe Dent du Geant on SummitPost nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dent du Geant Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Dent du Geant amp oldid 1117386784, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
