Dai Koyamada (Japanese: 小山田大, born 23 August 1976) is a Japanese rock climber and known as one of the leading boulderers of his generation who established some of the first-ever boulder problems at 8C (V15). He has also established and repeated, some of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
In 1996, Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship. This is the event that allowed him to become a professional rock climber.[3] Four years later in 2000 Koyamada left the competition climbing circuit because he realized "The real nature of my climbing resides in crags".[2]
Rock climbingedit
Koyamada came to wider prominence in sport climbing when in 2001, he completed the first ascent (FA) of Logical Progression, a 9a (5.14d) sport climb in Joyama, Japan, which was considered one of the most difficult in the world at the time.[4]
In 2004, Koyamada came to international prominence when he travelled to the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians National Park in Australia, and created several new extreme bouldering routes that were considered to be amongst the world's first-ever at the 8C+ (V16) grade, most notably Sleepy Rave,[5] and The Wheel of Life.[6] Both have seen their grades softened to 8B (V13) and 8C (V15) respectively.[7] Later in 2004, Koyamada traveled to Switzerland and repeated Fred Nicole's Dreamtime on November 9,[2] then one of the hardest boulder problems in the world, and one of the first boulders to receive a 8C (V15).[8]
On October 15, 2005, Koyamada repeated the famous sport climbing route, Action Directe9a (5.14d), in the Frankenjura, Germany and proclaimed it harder than any other route that he has climbed.[9] In a 2017 interview, Koymada called his ascent of Action Directe as "the outstanding turning point in my climbing career".[10]
On April 4, 2017, at the age of 40, Koyamada climbed a new personal best with the first ascent of the boulder, Nayuta8C+ (V16) in Gero, Japan.[11]
The Story of Two Worlds Low Start – Cresciano (SUI) – 22 March 2012 – Following an internet controversy contesting Koyamada's hand positions to start the boulder problem in 2010, Koyamada returned to honor his name and establish his own, more difficult low start.[14]
Epitaph – Hourai (JPN) – 20 January 2009 – This first ascent took him over a year to complete, and he says it's the most beautiful line he has ever made the first ascent on.[16]
Euphoria (ユーフォリア) – Yatsue (JPN) – 20 March 2008 – FA
Hyper Ballad – Shiobara (JPN) – 31 March 2006 – FA
Hydrangea – Shiobara (JPN) – 22 April 2005 – First ascent by adding a sit-start to his Hydra (V13/8B, FA on 2004 December 20).[17]
Dreamtime – Cresciano (SUI) – 9 November 2004 – Although Dai has logged this ascent as V14 it was considered V15 at the time prior to broken holds.[12]
koyamada, japanese, 小山田大, born, august, 1976, japanese, rock, climber, known, leading, boulderers, generation, established, some, first, ever, boulder, problems, also, established, repeated, some, hardest, sport, climbs, world, 小山田大, personal, informationborn,. Dai Koyamada Japanese 小山田大 born 23 August 1976 is a Japanese rock climber and known as one of the leading boulderers of his generation who established some of the first ever boulder problems at 8C V15 He has also established and repeated some of the hardest sport climbs in the world Dai Koyamada 小山田大 Personal informationBorn 1976 08 23 23 August 1976 age 47 Kagoshima Prefecture JapanOccupationProfessional rock climberHeight5 ft 5 in 165 cm 1 Weight128 lb 58 kg Websitekoyamada wbr dai wbr hiho wbr jpClimbing careerType of climberSport climbing Bouldering Competition climbingHighest gradeRedpoint 9a 5 14d Bouldering V16 8C First ascentsThe Wheel of Life V15 2004 The Story of Two Worlds Low Start V16 2012 Updated on 19 April 2017 Contents 1 Early life 2 Climbing career 2 1 Competition climbing 2 2 Rock climbing 3 Notable ascents 3 1 Boulder problems 3 2 Redpointed routes 4 References 5 External linksEarly life editDai was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima Prefecture and started climbing in 1993 2 Climbing career editCompetition climbing edit In 1996 Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship This is the event that allowed him to become a professional rock climber 3 Four years later in 2000 Koyamada left the competition climbing circuit because he realized The real nature of my climbing resides in crags 2 Rock climbing edit Koyamada came to wider prominence in sport climbing when in 2001 he completed the first ascent FA of Logical Progression a 9a 5 14d sport climb in Joyama Japan which was considered one of the most difficult in the world at the time 4 In 2004 Koyamada came to international prominence when he travelled to the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians National Park in Australia and created several new extreme bouldering routes that were considered to be amongst the world s first ever at the 8C V16 grade most notably Sleepy Rave 5 and The Wheel of Life 6 Both have seen their grades softened to 8B V13 and 8C V15 respectively 7 Later in 2004 Koyamada traveled to Switzerland and repeated Fred Nicole s Dreamtime on November 9 2 then one of the hardest boulder problems in the world and one of the first boulders to receive a 8C V15 8 On October 15 2005 Koyamada repeated the famous sport climbing route Action Directe 9a 5 14d in the Frankenjura Germany and proclaimed it harder than any other route that he has climbed 9 In a 2017 interview Koymada called his ascent of Action Directe as the outstanding turning point in my climbing career 10 On April 4 2017 at the age of 40 Koyamada climbed a new personal best with the first ascent of the boulder Nayuta 8C V16 in Gero Japan 11 Notable ascents editBoulder problems edit V16 8C 8 12 13 Nayuta 那由多 Gero JPN 4 April 2017 FA The Story of Two Worlds Low Start Cresciano SUI 22 March 2012 Following an internet controversy contesting Koyamada s hand positions to start the boulder problem in 2010 Koyamada returned to honor his name and establish his own more difficult low start 14 V15 8C 8 12 13 Nehanna ネハンナ Gero JPN 4 June 2016 FA Rokudou 六道 Toyamagawa JPN 25 March 2016 FA Meikyoushisui 明鏡止水 Toyamagawa JPN 18 March 2016 Second ascent 8B 8C Horizon ホライゾン Mt Hiei JPN 8 May 2015 FA Kawaki no umi Sea of Dry 乾きの海 Minamata JPN 31 March 2014 FA 8B 8C Vanitas ヴァニタス Horai JPN 6 February 2014 FA Eternal エターナル Hinokage JPN 1 May 2013 FA Four Dimensional ４次元 Hinokage JPN 21 March 2013 FA 8B 8C Floating World 浮世 Ena JPN 7 November 2012 FA Der mit dem Fels tanzt Chironico SUI 28 October 2012 Second Ascent Ukiyo 浮世 Ena JPN 12 July 2012 FA Daedalus Direct Sustenpass SUI 4 October 2004 FA 8B 8C In Search of Time Lost Magic Wood SUI 28 August 2011 Second Ascent The Story of Two Worlds Cresciano SUI 13 May 2010 Second ascent of Dave Graham s classic boulder put up in 2005 15 Idea イデア Horai JPN 8 February 2010 FA Karamu Japan JPN 28 April 2009 FA Epitaph Hourai JPN 20 January 2009 This first ascent took him over a year to complete and he says it s the most beautiful line he has ever made the first ascent on 16 Euphoria ユーフォリア Yatsue JPN 20 March 2008 FA Bongo ボンゴ Frankenjura GER 28 October 2007 FA 40 move roof climb Angama Fontainebleau FR 24 October 2006 FA Traverse Hyper Ballad Shiobara JPN 31 March 2006 FA Hydrangea Shiobara JPN 22 April 2005 First ascent by adding a sit start to his Hydra V13 8B FA on 2004 December 20 17 Dreamtime Cresciano SUI 9 November 2004 Although Dai has logged this ascent as V14 it was considered V15 at the time prior to broken holds 12 The Wheel of Life Grampians AUS 12 May 2004 FA Methuselahzation メトセラゼーション Yatsue JPN 8 February 2004 FA Byaku dou Hourai JPN 11 November 2003 first ascent 18 Hull Shea Nation ハルシネーション Horai JPN UNKNOWN FAV14 8B Agartha Toyota JPN 12 April 2011 8B V14 first ascent 19 Big Paw Chironico SUI 13 November 2010 At the time of ascent considered 8C V15 but has subsequently been downgraded 20 Redpointed routes edit 9b 5 15b Action Directe Frankenjura GER 15 October 2005 Dai proclaimed it to be his most difficult climb yet Hugh Les Eaux Claire FRA 1 November 2002 first ascent FA by Fred Rouhling in 1993 21 Logical Progression Joyama JPN 27 November 2001 first ascent FA of 9a 5 14d sport climb 4 References edit Bleau Info Archived from the original on 2011 05 27 a b c Dai Koyamada Black Diamond Equipment Ltd Archived from the original on 2011 09 30 Gripped Magazine Vol 6 Iss 6 Dec 2004 Jan 2005 a b Josune Climbs Possible 5 15 Archived from the original on 2012 06 12 Retrieved 2011 07 17 Pohl Bjorn 4 August 2016 Ashima repeats Sleepy rave 8C UKClimbing com Retrieved 8 January 2022 V16 in the Grampians of Australia Climbing Archived from the original on 2011 07 27 Second Ascent of V16 Boulder Archived from the original on 2010 11 01 Retrieved 2011 07 17 a b c The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World 2019 Update 5 March 2019 Dai Koyamada s first press release on Action Directe pictures freakclimbing com Archived from the original on 2015 09 24 Retrieved 2011 07 17 Mann Neal 18 December 2017 DAI KOYAMADA ON PROJECTS GRADES AND THE IMPACT OF THE OLYMPICS TheProjectMagazine Retrieved 30 January 2022 Nayuta 8C first ascent by Dai Koyamada a b c Home 8a nu a b Hardclimbs info 29 November 2021 Dai Koyamada and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano planetmountain com Koyamada Repeats Story of Two Worlds Climbing Archived from the original on 2012 07 23 New Koyamada 8C ukbouldering com Another V16 for Koyamada Climbing Archived from the original on 2012 06 12 8a nu GLOBAL 8a nu UKC ukclimbing com Swizzy Bouldering Rundown Archived from the original on 2011 01 20 Retrieved 2011 07 17 Koyamada Repeats Action Directe Climbing Archived from the original on 2012 06 14 External links editKOYAMADA Dai daihold com Japanese The Way of the Weekend Warrior http www project climbing com Yokohama bouldering gym produced by Dai Koyamada http koyamada dai hiho jp Dai s diary Japanese http vimeo com 23101550 video of the first ascent of Agartha V14 https www youtube com watch v y3EJctYJzpk video of Dai Koyamada climbing Action Direct 9a https www youtube com watch v VUoFXV7MgR4 video of Dai Koyamada climbing Dreamtime Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Dai Koyamada amp oldid 1170035389, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
