Climber's finger is one of the most common climbing injuries within the sport of rock climbing, accounting for about 30% of finger injuries seen in climbers.[1] It is an overuse injury that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged flexor tendon pulley, normally the A2 or A4 pulley. It is particularly common after a repeated utilization of small holds.[2] Continued climbing on an injured finger may result in increased downtime in order to recover.[3] The injury was first described in 1988 by Dr. S.R. Bollen.[4][1]
Rock climbers often support their body with bent fingers on small edges, known as "crimps", especially on more difficult routes. This can cause a characteristic injury to the pulleys (annular ligaments), named "climber's finger".[5]
Treatmentedit
Management of pulley injuries of the fingers is to follow the RICE method.[3][6][7] Other treatment suggestions are listed below:
The patient is to immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger, and consult a doctor if there is noticeable "bowstringing" on the flexor tendon or if unsure about the nature of the injury[citation needed].
There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach. Some argue for the use of NSAIDs and ice for visible swelling only[citation needed].
Light massage can be used to increase blood flow to the injured area, aiding recovery. Massage tools such as acupressure rings can be beneficial in the same way[citation needed].
Protein supplements may help the tendons recover faster by providing much needed building block nutrients[citation needed].
When the pain and swelling is gone (depending on the grade of the injury, 1–4 weeks), the patient can begin with an active healing process – containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball. This can be combined with mild exercise, such as finger flexions, to ensure the finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress. The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow[citation needed].
The patient can gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping when climbing. There is some research supporting the use of taping, especially concerning bowstringing, but more research is needed.[8] It is advised to spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds, good footholds and keeping sessions short. Stay away from overhangs and campus areas/boards[citation needed].
The patient can return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping (it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury) and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more[citation needed].
Referencesedit
^ abBollen, S R (1 December 1988). "Soft tissue injury in extreme rock climbers". British Journal of Sports Medicine. 22 (4): 145–147. doi:10.1136/bjsm.22.4.145. PMC1478743. PMID 3228682.
^Preston, Dayton. "Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights". Hughston health alert. Retrieved 12 January 2011.
^ abHörst, Eric J (2008). . Nicros. Archived from the original on September 30, 2011. Retrieved 12 January 2011.
^"Climber's Finger: The Pulley Tear". Gripped Magazine. 2020-07-30. Retrieved 2022-01-05.
^Crowley, Timothy P. (June 2012). "The Flexor Tendon Pulley System and Rock Climbing". Journal of Hand and Microsurgery. 4 (1): 25–29. doi:10.1007/s12593-012-0061-3. PMC3371120. PMID 23730085.
^Roseborrough, Aimee; Roseborrough, Kyle (2009). "Fingers and Pulleys". Retrieved 12 January 2011.
^Schöffl, Volker; Schöffl, I. (2007). "Finger pain in rock climbers: reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy". J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 47 (1): 70–78. PMID 17369801. ProQuest 202716942.
^Larsson, Robin; Nordeman, Lena; Blomdahl, Christina (2022-08-01). "To tape or not to tape: annular ligament (pulley) injuries in rock climbers—a systematic review". BMC Sports Science, Medicine and Rehabilitation. 14 (1): 148. doi:10.1186/s13102-022-00539-6. ISSN 2052-1847. PMC9344739. PMID 35915476.
April 15, 2024
climber, finger, most, common, climbing, injuries, within, sport, rock, climbing, accounting, about, finger, injuries, seen, climbers, overuse, injury, that, usually, manifests, swollen, middle, ring, finger, damaged, flexor, tendon, pulley, normally, pulley, . Climber s finger is one of the most common climbing injuries within the sport of rock climbing accounting for about 30 of finger injuries seen in climbers 1 It is an overuse injury that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged flexor tendon pulley normally the A2 or A4 pulley It is particularly common after a repeated utilization of small holds 2 Continued climbing on an injured finger may result in increased downtime in order to recover 3 The injury was first described in 1988 by Dr S R Bollen 4 1 Contents 1 Cause 2 Treatment 3 ReferencesCause editRock climbers often support their body with bent fingers on small edges known as crimps especially on more difficult routes This can cause a characteristic injury to the pulleys annular ligaments named climber s finger 5 Treatment editManagement of pulley injuries of the fingers is to follow the RICE method 3 6 7 Other treatment suggestions are listed below The patient is to immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger and consult a doctor if there is noticeable bowstringing on the flexor tendon or if unsure about the nature of the injury citation needed There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach Some argue for the use of NSAIDs and ice for visible swelling only citation needed Light massage can be used to increase blood flow to the injured area aiding recovery Massage tools such as acupressure rings can be beneficial in the same way citation needed Protein supplements may help the tendons recover faster by providing much needed building block nutrients citation needed When the pain and swelling is gone depending on the grade of the injury 1 4 weeks the patient can begin with an active healing process containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball This can be combined with mild exercise such as finger flexions to ensure the finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow citation needed The patient can gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping when climbing There is some research supporting the use of taping especially concerning bowstringing but more research is needed 8 It is advised to spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds good footholds and keeping sessions short Stay away from overhangs and campus areas boards citation needed The patient can return to full force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain Continue taping it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more citation needed References edit a b Bollen S R 1 December 1988 Soft tissue injury in extreme rock climbers British Journal of Sports Medicine 22 4 145 147 doi 10 1136 bjsm 22 4 145 PMC 1478743 PMID 3228682 Preston Dayton Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights Hughston health alert Retrieved 12 January 2011 a b Horst Eric J 2008 Finger Tendon Pulley Injury Nicros Archived from the original on September 30 2011 Retrieved 12 January 2011 Climber s Finger The Pulley Tear Gripped Magazine 2020 07 30 Retrieved 2022 01 05 Crowley Timothy P June 2012 The Flexor Tendon Pulley System and Rock Climbing Journal of Hand and Microsurgery 4 1 25 29 doi 10 1007 s12593 012 0061 3 PMC 3371120 PMID 23730085 Roseborrough Aimee Roseborrough Kyle 2009 Fingers and Pulleys Retrieved 12 January 2011 Schoffl Volker Schoffl I 2007 Finger pain in rock climbers reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy J Sports Med Phys Fitness 47 1 70 78 PMID 17369801 ProQuest 202716942 Larsson Robin Nordeman Lena Blomdahl Christina 2022 08 01 To tape or not to tape annular ligament pulley injuries in rock climbers a systematic review BMC Sports Science Medicine and Rehabilitation 14 1 148 doi 10 1186 s13102 022 00539 6 ISSN 2052 1847 PMC 9344739 PMID 35915476 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Climber 27s finger amp oldid 1175541033, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
