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Charlie Porter

April 11, 2024

This article is about the mountaineer. For the fashion journalist, see Charlie Porter (journalist). For the trumpeter, see Charlie Porter (trumpeter).

Charlie Porter (June 12, 1950 in Massachusetts – February 23, 2014 in Punta Arenas) was an American mountaineer and climate change scientist.[1] He is best known for his bold first ascents in Yosemite (particularly on El Capitan), Canada and Alaska;[2] and his significant influence on other notable climbers and the climbing community,[3] in part due to his creation and development of innovative climbing equipment.[4][5] He has also garnered a reputation as an adventurer (he was one of the first people to round Cape Horn in a kayak[6]) and geoscientist in South America.[7]

Notable ascents edit

El Capitan, Yosemite, USA edit

Porter's notable first ascents on El Capitan include[8][9]

  • Zodiac 1972
  • The Shield 1972
  • Mescalito 1973
  • Tangerine Trip 1973
  • Excalibur 1975[10]

Prior to the above routes, Porter's 1972 solo ascent of New Dawn (a variation of Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell's Wall of the Early Morning Light) in which he dropped his haul bag early in the route but continued to complete the climb 9 days later, sleeping in slings and an improvised sleeping bag made from ensolite foam, gained him significant notoriety in the climbing community.[2]

Alaska edit

Canada edit

Tierra del Fuego edit

Adventurer and scientist edit

In 1979, Porter was the first person to kayak around Cape Horn.[6] From the 1980s onward, he lived in South America where he continued his spirit of adventure, sailing to remote locations, regularly chartering his yacht and guiding services to marine and climate scientists whose research is based in southern South America.[16][17]

References edit

  1. ^ Holyoke, John (5 March 2014). "Climate change scientist, legendary climber Charlie Porter dies at 63". Bangordailynews.com. Retrieved 2014-03-07.
  2. ^ a b Chapman, Mark; Bracksieck, George (1993). "Charlie Porter". Rock & Ice.
  3. ^ Cerro Torres: Epic Hall of Fame No 224 Climbing Magazine June 1, 2010, at the Wayback Machine
  4. ^ Middendorf, John "Mechanical Advantage", Ascent 1999
  5. ^ . Archived from the original on 2011-10-01. Retrieved 2011-07-27.
  6. ^ a b New York Times 6 May 2001
  7. ^ Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University Expedition
  8. ^ Chris McNamara, Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition May 2011
  9. ^ "40 Years of American Rock", Climbing Magazine October 23, 2011, at the Wayback Machine
  10. ^ "El Capitan : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering". SummitPost. Retrieved 2014-03-07.
  11. ^ (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2011-06-26. Retrieved 2011-08-01.
  12. ^ McLean, Russell (1977). "Middle Triple Peak". American Alpine Journal (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 21 (51): 102–105. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5
  13. ^ Doug Scott, "Mount Asgard", in World Mountaineering (Audrey Salkeld, editor), Bulfinch Press, 1998, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2
  14. ^ Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering Chic Scott, Rocky Mountain Books Ltd, 2000 ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5
  15. ^ Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt Addicted to Danger Simon and Schuster, 1999 ISBN 978-0-671-01991-4
  16. ^ Abrupt Climate Change - Ice cores from Patagonia, Climate Change Institute 2005 [1] 2012-03-23 at the Wayback Machine
  17. ^ Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University Expedition

External links edit

  • Gary Bocarde "Waiting for Dawn", July 21, 2014 Alpinist
  • "Charles Talbot Porter", "The Free Press"
  • "Charlie Porter – obituary", "The Telegraph," 26 May 2014
  • "Charlie Porter, an Adventurer Scaling Rock and Sailing Seas, Is Dead at 63", "New York Times," 15 March 2014

April 11, 2024
charlie, porter, this, article, about, mountaineer, fashion, journalist, journalist, trumpeter, trumpeter, june, 1950, massachusetts, february, 2014, punta, arenas, american, mountaineer, climate, change, scientist, best, known, bold, first, ascents, yosemite,. This article is about the mountaineer For the fashion journalist see Charlie Porter journalist For the trumpeter see Charlie Porter trumpeter Charlie Porter June 12 1950 in Massachusetts February 23 2014 in Punta Arenas was an American mountaineer and climate change scientist 1 He is best known for his bold first ascents in Yosemite particularly on El Capitan Canada and Alaska 2 and his significant influence on other notable climbers and the climbing community 3 in part due to his creation and development of innovative climbing equipment 4 5 He has also garnered a reputation as an adventurer he was one of the first people to round Cape Horn in a kayak 6 and geoscientist in South America 7 Contents 1 Notable ascents 1 1 El Capitan Yosemite USA 1 2 Alaska 1 3 Canada 1 4 Tierra del Fuego 2 Adventurer and scientist 3 References 4 External linksNotable ascents editEl Capitan Yosemite USA edit Porter s notable first ascents on El Capitan include 8 9 Zodiac 1972 The Shield 1972 Mescalito 1973 Tangerine Trip 1973 Excalibur 1975 10 Prior to the above routes Porter s 1972 solo ascent of New Dawn a variation of Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell s Wall of the Early Morning Light in which he dropped his haul bag early in the route but continued to complete the climb 9 days later sleeping in slings and an improvised sleeping bag made from ensolite foam gained him significant notoriety in the climbing community 2 Alaska edit First solo of the Cassin Ridge Denali 1976 Described as ahead of its time 11 West Face of Middle Triple Peak in the Kichatna Mountains with Russell McLean 1976 12 Canada edit First ever grade VII route done solo on Baffin Island s Mount Asgard 1975 described by Doug Scott as a remarkable achievement 13 Polar Circus V WI 5 Cirrus Mountain Banff National Park 14 Tierra del Fuego edit Monte Sarmiento West Peak In 1995 he joined with Stephen Venables John Roskelley Jim Wickwire and Tim Macartney Snape however during high winds Porter was blown off an icy ridge managing to stop his slide off the mountain by jamming his arm in a crevasse breaking a bone and dislocating his shoulder in the process but saving his life 15 Adventurer and scientist editIn 1979 Porter was the first person to kayak around Cape Horn 6 From the 1980s onward he lived in South America where he continued his spirit of adventure sailing to remote locations regularly chartering his yacht and guiding services to marine and climate scientists whose research is based in southern South America 16 17 References edit Holyoke John 5 March 2014 Climate change scientist legendary climber Charlie Porter dies at 63 Bangordailynews com Retrieved 2014 03 07 a b Chapman Mark Bracksieck George 1993 Charlie Porter Rock amp Ice Cerro Torres Epic Hall of Fame No 224 Climbing Magazine Archived June 1 2010 at the Wayback Machine Middendorf John Mechanical Advantage Ascent 1999 The Nuts Museum Archived from the original on 2011 10 01 Retrieved 2011 07 27 a b New York Times 6 May 2001 Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University Expedition Chris McNamara Yosemite Big Walls 3rd Edition May 2011 40 Years of American Rock Climbing Magazine Archived October 23 2011 at the Wayback Machine El Capitan Climbing Hiking amp Mountaineering SummitPost Retrieved 2014 03 07 SuperTopo com PDF Archived from the original PDF on 2011 06 26 Retrieved 2011 08 01 McLean Russell 1977 Middle Triple Peak American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 21 51 102 105 ISBN 978 0 930410 31 5 Doug Scott Mount Asgard in World Mountaineering Audrey Salkeld editor Bulfinch Press 1998 ISBN 0 8212 2502 2 Pushing the limits the story of Canadian mountaineering Chic Scott Rocky Mountain Books Ltd 2000 ISBN 978 0 921102 59 5 Jim Wickwire Dorothy Bullitt Addicted to Danger Simon and Schuster 1999 ISBN 978 0 671 01991 4 Abrupt Climate Change Ice cores from Patagonia Climate Change Institute 2005 1 Archived 2012 03 23 at the Wayback Machine Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University ExpeditionExternal links editGary Bocarde Waiting for Dawn July 21 2014 Alpinist Charles Talbot Porter The Free Press Charlie Porter obituary The Telegraph 26 May 2014 Charlie Porter an Adventurer Scaling Rock and Sailing Seas Is Dead at 63 New York Times 15 March 2014 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Charlie Porter amp oldid 1187352330, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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