Devoré (also called burnout) is a fabric technique particularly used on velvets, where a mixed-fibre material undergoes a chemical process to dissolve the cellulose fibres to create a semi-transparent pattern against more solidly woven fabric. The same technique can also be applied to textiles other than velvet, such as lace or the fabrics in burnout t-shirts.[1]
Devoré – or burnout technique – applied to green velvet fabric
Devoré comes from the French verb dévorer, meaning literally to devour.[2][3]
Burnout fabrics are thought to have originated in France, possibly as a cheap alternative to lace that could be created using caustic paste on fabric.[2] The commercial chemical process used in fashion garments was developed in Lyon at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.[4]
The technique was popularised in the 1920s – typically used on evening gowns and shawls – and revived in the 1980s and '90s, notably by Jasper Conran on theatrical costumes and then evening wear and by Georgina von Etzdorf on scarves.[2][5][6][7]
1990s revivaledit
Conran is credited with popularising devoré, introducing it in 1989 and taking the technique forward in the 1990s in his main fashion line.[4] He refined his techniques on theatrical costumes; in the 1992 production of My Fair Lady directed by Simon Callow, burnout fabrics were heavily used for the costumes of Eliza Doolittle and street vendors.[4] Conran's devoré technique also featured in David Bintley's 1993 Royal Ballet production of Tombeaux, where it was used to create the two-tone velvet tutu worn by Darcey Bussell and the corps de ballet costumes.[4][8] In 1994, it featured in the Scottish Ballet production of The Sleeping Beauty, where Conran said it produced better results for lower cost than appliqué techniques.[2][5]
Conran's most elaborate devoré fashion pieces – which were oven baked as part of the process – were time-consuming to produce and expensive to buy; in 1993, a panelled evening skirt retailed at £572 and an acid-treated shirt cost £625.[4]
Established as a Wiltshire textile printing workshop in 1981, Georgina von Etzdorf's primary focus was on creating painterly effects on fabric. Credited with popularising the velvet scarf, she introduced devoré to the range in 1993 – having experimented with printed velvets from 1985.[9]
Methodedit
Devoré techniques use blended fabrics which combine protein-based fibres such as silk with cellulose-based fibres such as viscose, cotton, or rayon. In order to create the 'burnout' pattern, a chemical gel containing sodium hydrogen sulphate is applied to the fabric in patterns, dissolving away the cellulose-based fibres and leaving behind the protein-based fibres, which are not affected by the chemical. The chemical gel may be applied either by printing or by hand painting on the fabric.[1]
^ abcdeHume, Marian (11 February 1993). "Fashion: Mr Contran's fin de siecle: Severity, thy name was Jasper: Now he who cleaved to chaste lines and plain black has taken to more exotic stuff. Marion Hume applauds ". The Independent. Retrieved 8 July 2014.
^ abBrennan, Mary (10 March 1994). "All hands to tutu". Herald Scotland. Retrieved 7 July 2014.
^Roffey, Monique (8 July 1994). "In thing: Georgina von Etzdorf scarves". The Independent. Retrieved 7 July 2014.
^"Georgina von Etzdorf: 25 years of sensuous textiles". manchestergalleries.org. Manchester Art Gallery. Retrieved 8 July 2014.
^Bintley, David. . Birmingham Royal Ballet. Archived from the original on 14 July 2014. Retrieved 8 July 2014.
1990s Georgina von Etzdorf devore satin dress in the Manchester Galleries collection 2016-02-07 at the Wayback Machine
January 01, 1970
devoré, also, called, burnout, fabric, technique, particularly, used, velvets, where, mixed, fibre, material, undergoes, chemical, process, dissolve, cellulose, fibres, create, semi, transparent, pattern, against, more, solidly, woven, fabric, same, technique,. Devore also called burnout is a fabric technique particularly used on velvets where a mixed fibre material undergoes a chemical process to dissolve the cellulose fibres to create a semi transparent pattern against more solidly woven fabric The same technique can also be applied to textiles other than velvet such as lace or the fabrics in burnout t shirts 1 Devore or burnout technique applied to green velvet fabric Devore comes from the French verb devorer meaning literally to devour 2 3 Contents 1 History 1 1 1990s revival 2 Method 3 See also 4 References 5 External linksHistory editBurnout fabrics are thought to have originated in France possibly as a cheap alternative to lace that could be created using caustic paste on fabric 2 The commercial chemical process used in fashion garments was developed in Lyon at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries 4 The technique was popularised in the 1920s typically used on evening gowns and shawls and revived in the 1980s and 90s notably by Jasper Conran on theatrical costumes and then evening wear and by Georgina von Etzdorf on scarves 2 5 6 7 1990s revival edit Conran is credited with popularising devore introducing it in 1989 and taking the technique forward in the 1990s in his main fashion line 4 He refined his techniques on theatrical costumes in the 1992 production of My Fair Lady directed by Simon Callow burnout fabrics were heavily used for the costumes of Eliza Doolittle and street vendors 4 Conran s devore technique also featured in David Bintley s 1993 Royal Ballet production of Tombeaux where it was used to create the two tone velvet tutu worn by Darcey Bussell and the corps de ballet costumes 4 8 In 1994 it featured in the Scottish Ballet production of The Sleeping Beauty where Conran said it produced better results for lower cost than applique techniques 2 5 Conran s most elaborate devore fashion pieces which were oven baked as part of the process were time consuming to produce and expensive to buy in 1993 a panelled evening skirt retailed at 572 and an acid treated shirt cost 625 4 Established as a Wiltshire textile printing workshop in 1981 Georgina von Etzdorf s primary focus was on creating painterly effects on fabric Credited with popularising the velvet scarf she introduced devore to the range in 1993 having experimented with printed velvets from 1985 9 Method editDevore techniques use blended fabrics which combine protein based fibres such as silk with cellulose based fibres such as viscose cotton or rayon In order to create the burnout pattern a chemical gel containing sodium hydrogen sulphate is applied to the fabric in patterns dissolving away the cellulose based fibres and leaving behind the protein based fibres which are not affected by the chemical The chemical gel may be applied either by printing or by hand painting on the fabric 1 See also edit nbsp Fashion portal nbsp Chemistry portal Cellulose fiber Chemical lace Fabric Fiber Glossary of textile manufacturing Synthetic fiber Textile manufacturing Textile manufacturing terminologyReferences edit a b Singer Margo 2007 Textile Surface Decoration Silk and Velvet University of Pennsylvania Press p 35 ISBN 9780812220001 a b c d Swift Dionne Exploring Devore textilearts net Textile Arts Archived from the original on 14 July 2014 Retrieved 7 July 2014 Fogg Marnie 2009 1980s Fashion Print London Anova Books Batsford p 13 ISBN 978 19063 8841 6 a b c d e Hume Marian 11 February 1993 Fashion Mr Contran s fin de siecle Severity thy name was Jasper Now he who cleaved to chaste lines and plain black has taken to more exotic stuff Marion Hume applauds The Independent Retrieved 8 July 2014 a b Brennan Mary 10 March 1994 All hands to tutu Herald Scotland Retrieved 7 July 2014 Roffey Monique 8 July 1994 In thing Georgina von Etzdorf scarves The Independent Retrieved 7 July 2014 Georgina von Etzdorf 25 years of sensuous textiles manchestergalleries org Manchester Art Gallery Retrieved 8 July 2014 Bintley David Recapturing a Dream David Bintley on Tombeaux Birmingham Royal Ballet Archived from the original on 14 July 2014 Retrieved 8 July 2014 Jackson Lesley 8 February 2007 Twentieth Century Pattern Design Princeton Architectural Press pp 209 11 ISBN 978 1568987125 Retrieved 8 July 2014 External links editDevore tutorial on Textile Arts Examples and methods at The Cutting Class 1990s Georgina von Etzdorf devore satin dress in the Manchester Galleries collection Archived 2016 02 07 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Devore amp oldid 1222658851, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
