The Alpamayo lies next to the slightly higher Quitaraju.
In July 1966, the German magazine "Alpinismus", published a photo of Alpamayo taken by American photographer Leigh Ortenburger accompanied by an article on a survey among mountaineering experts, who chose Alpamayo as "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World".[7]
Most popular routes start from the village of Caraz, on the north of the Cordillera Blanca. A French-Belgian expedition including George and Claude Kogan claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951. After studying the photos in George Kogan's book The Ascent of Alpamayo, the German team of G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann came to the conclusion that the 1951 team did not reach the actual summit, thereby making their ascent via the north ridge in 1957 the first.
The most common climbing route, known as the Ferrari route, is situated on the southwest face of the mountain. It was opened in 1975 by a group of Italian alpinists led by Casimiro Ferrari. It is considered a difficult climb, demanding good crampon and ice climbing technique. There are incomparable views of steep ice faces, penitentes, gigantic white walls and ridges like those of Huandoy Norte, Artesonraju and Huascaran Norte, similar to the finest of the Himalayan scenery. There are also at least six other alternative climbing routes, the second most popular being the Vasque-French route.
(in French) French Young Expedition to Alpamayo - photographs and good topo
- An Australian climber's stunning photos of climbers on the Ferrari Route, and his 1987 ascent/descent of the more difficult French Route.
Climbing Alpamayo 2007 ascent of the French Direct route, including many photographs
(in French) French blog post on the ascent - photographs and ascension story
March 10, 2023
alpamayo, possibly, from, quechua, allpa, earth, mayu, river, earth, river, shuyturaju, possibly, from, ancash, quechua, huytu, shuytu, oblong, slim, long, quechua, rahu, snow, mountain, covered, snow, most, conspicuous, peaks, cordillera, blanca, peruvian, an. Alpamayo 2 3 possibly from Quechua allpa earth mayu river 4 earth river or Shuyturaju 3 possibly from Ancash Quechua huytu shuytu oblong slim and long Quechua rahu snow ice mountain covered in snow 5 6 is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes Alpamayo Creek originates northwest of it 2 AlpamayoHighest pointElevation5 947 m 19 511 ft Prominence447 m 1 467 ft 1 Parent peakQuitarajuCoordinates08 52 75 S 77 39 22 W 8 87917 S 77 65367 W 8 87917 77 65367 Coordinates 08 52 75 S 77 39 22 W 8 87917 S 77 65367 W 8 87917 77 65367NamingNative nameShuyturaju Quechua GeographyAlpamayoPeruLocationAncash PeruParent rangeCordillera BlancaClimbingFirst ascentJune 20 1957 by Gunter Hauser Berhard Huhn and Horst Wiedmann Easiest routeDifficult snow ice climb on SW faceThe Alpamayo lies next to the slightly higher Quitaraju In July 1966 the German magazine Alpinismus published a photo of Alpamayo taken by American photographer Leigh Ortenburger accompanied by an article on a survey among mountaineering experts who chose Alpamayo as The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World 7 Climbing history and routes EditThis section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed March 2018 Learn how and when to remove this template message Most popular routes start from the village of Caraz on the north of the Cordillera Blanca A French Belgian expedition including George and Claude Kogan claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951 After studying the photos in George Kogan s book The Ascent of Alpamayo the German team of G Hauser F Knauss B Huhn amp H Wiedmann came to the conclusion that the 1951 team did not reach the actual summit thereby making their ascent via the north ridge in 1957 the first The most common climbing route known as the Ferrari route is situated on the southwest face of the mountain It was opened in 1975 by a group of Italian alpinists led by Casimiro Ferrari It is considered a difficult climb demanding good crampon and ice climbing technique There are incomparable views of steep ice faces penitentes gigantic white walls and ridges like those of Huandoy Norte Artesonraju and Huascaran Norte similar to the finest of the Himalayan scenery There are also at least six other alternative climbing routes the second most popular being the Vasque French route References Edit Peakbagger Alpamayo a b Peru 1 100 000 Corongo 18 h IGN Instituto Geografico Nacional Peru Nevado Alpamayo a b Nevado Alpamayo Inventario Turistico del Peru in Spanish MINCETUR Archived from the original on 10 June 2016 Retrieved 25 May 2016 Teofilo Laime Ajacopa Diccionario Bilingue Iskay simipi yuyayk ancha La Paz 2007 Quechua Spanish dictionary homepage ntlworld com robert beer Archived 2016 03 04 at the Wayback Machine Robert Beer Armando Muyolema Dr Hernan S Aguilar Vocabulario comparativo quechua ecuatoriano quechua ancashino castellano English Brighton 2006 babylon com Archived from the original on 2014 12 29 Retrieved 2013 09 16 Hibbert Ian 2015 Alpamayo to Everest It s Not About the Summit Lulu Press ISBN 9781483440736 External links Edit Andes portal Wikimedia Commons has media related to Alpamayo Alpamayo on Summitpost Expedition to Alpamayo numerous photographs in French French Young Expedition to Alpamayo photographs and good topo Landscapes of the Soul An Australian climber s stunning photos of climbers on the Ferrari Route and his 1987 ascent descent of the more difficult French Route Climbing Alpamayo 2007 ascent of the French Direct route including many photographs in French French blog post on the ascent photographs and ascension story Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Alpamayo amp oldid 1097474625, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
