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Shalwar kameez

Shalwar kameez[2][3] (also salwar kameez[4] and less commonly shalwar qameez)[5][6] is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia,[4][7] and Central Asia.[8][9]

Schoolgirls in Abbottabad, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, in shalwars with cuffed hems, and kameez with collars.
Boys in Badakshan, Afghanistan, wearing kameez tunics, showing side seams left open below the waist.[1]
Women in the kitchen at Harmandir Sahib, Amritsar, India, displaying the wide-ranging colors and designs of shalwar-kameez

Shalwars are trousers which are atypically wide at the waist but which narrow to a cuffed bottom. They are held up by a drawstring or elastic belt, which causes them to become pleated around the waist.[4] The trousers can be wide and baggy, or they can be cut quite narrow, on the bias. Shalwars have been traditionally worn in a wide region which includes Eastern Europe,[10][11] West Asia,[12][13] Central Asia, and South Asia. The kameez is a long shirt or tunic.[14] The side seams are left open below the waist-line (the opening known as the chaak[note 1]), which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement. The kameez is usually cut straight and flat; older kameez use traditional cuts; modern kameez are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. The kameez may have a European-style collar, a Mandarin collar, or it may be collarless; in the latter case, its design as a women's garment is similar to a kurta. The combination garment is sometimes called salwar kurta, salwar suit, or Punjabi suit.[16][17]

The shalwar and kameez were introduced into South Asia by arriving Muslims in the north in the 13th century: at first worn by Muslim women, their use gradually spread, making them a regional style,[18][19][20] especially in the historical Punjab region.[17][21][22] The shalwar-kameez is a widely-worn,[23][24] and national dress,[25] of Pakistan. It is also widely worn by men in Afghanistan,[26] by women and some men in the Punjab region of India, from which it has been adopted by women throughout India,[27] and more generally in South Asia.[28]

When women wear the shalwar-kameez in some regions, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck.[29][30] In South Asia, the dupatta is also employed as a form of modesty—although it is made of delicate material, it obscures the upper body's contours by passing over the shoulders. For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burqa (see hijab and purdah); for Sikh and Hindu women, the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered, as in a temple or the presence of elders.[31] Everywhere in South Asia, modern versions of the attire have evolved; the shalwars are worn lower down on the waist, the kameez have shorter lengths, higher splits, lower necklines and backlines, and with cropped sleeves or without sleeves.[32]

Etymology and history edit

The English word shalwar derives ultimately from Persian شلوار shalwār or shulwār or shilwār (short vowels are not written in that script, so the reading is ambiguous).[2][4][33][34][35][36]

The English word kameez derives from Arabic qamīṣ (Arabic: قميص, plural: قمصان qumṣān), perhaps from late Latin camisia[37][38][39][40][41]

The English word combination shalwar kameez is an internationalism derived from the Urdu language; according to Patrizia Anesa, author of Lexical Innovation in World Englishes: Cross-fertilization and Evolving Paradigms, "Salwar-kameez. ... may also be described as an internationalism given its origin (Urdu). This word-formation process is based on the combination of two elements which are two garments (baggy pants and a tunic or shirt) and constitute an outfit typical of South and Central Asia."[42] Author Garland Cannon in "Problems in Studying Loans,"[note 2] in Proceedings of the 25th Annual Meeting of the Berkeley Linguistics Society, says, "... the old Urdu shalwar-kameez 'women's loose-fitting trousers and long tunic' was first used in English by colonial residents on the Indian subcontinent. (page 332)"[43][44]

Description edit

The shalwar are loose pajama-like trousers. The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a long shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar; however, for female apparel, the term is now loosely applied to collarless or mandarin-collared kurtas. The kameez might be worn with pajamas as well, either for fashion or comfort. Some kameez styles have side seams (known as the chaak), left open below the waist-line, giving the wearer greater freedom of movement.[45]

Styles edit

The kameez can be sewn straight and flat, in an "A" shape design[46] or flowing like a dress; there are a variety of styles. Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. If the tailor's taste or skill is displayed, this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, or styled in cap-sleeve or sleeveless designs.

There are many styles of shalwar: the Peshawari shalwar, Balochi shalwar, Sindhi choreno and Punjabi shalwar.

Although various regions of the Indian subcontinent now wear the outfit in its various forms, the outfit was originally only popular on a wide scale in Afghanistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Balochistan[47] and the Punjab region of Indian subcontinent.[48][49][50] However, the shalwar kameez has now become popular across the Indian subcontinent.[51]

Different forms edit

The following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez.

Anarkali suit edit

 
Priyanka Chopra modeling an Anarkali suit

The shalwar kameez known as the Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from Lahore, Pakistan.[52] This suit has a timeless style which has become very popular. It is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a slim fitted bottom. This style of suit links the Indian subcontinent with the women's firaq partug (frock and shalwar) of northwestern Pakistan and Afghanistan and to the traditional women's clothing of parts of Central Asia.[53] It also links to the Punjab region, where the Anarkali suit is similar to the anga[54][55] and the Peshwaz worn in Jammu.[56]

Afghanistan suits edit

The styles of shalwar kameez worn in Afghanistan include various styles of khet partug,[57] perahan tunban and Firaq partug worn by Pashtuns, Tajiks, and Hazaras.[58] The shalwar tends to be loose and rests above the ankles.[59]

Peshawari shalwar suit edit

 
Traditional Khet partug (traditional loose Peshawari shalwar)

The traditional dress of Peshawar and other parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, is the khalqa (gown) which opens at the front,[60] or shirt which does not open at the front,[61] and the Peshawari shalwar which is very loose down to the ankles.[62] The Peshawari shalwar can be used with a number of upper garments and is part of the clothing of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.

Balochi suits edit

The clothing of Balochistan, Pakistan includes the shalwar kameez which when worn by males consists of a very baggy shalwar[63] using large lengths of cloth.[64] The kameez is also loose,[65] and traditionally is long, with long sleeves.[66] The present Balochi shalwar kameez replaced the earlier version which consisted of a robe to the ankles and a shalwar using cloth of up to 40 yards. The Pashtuns in northern Balochistan wear clothes similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan.

The female Balochi suit consists of the head scarf, long dress and a shalwar.

Phiran, poots and shalwar edit

In Kashmir, the outfit consists of the phiran, poots and shalwar.[67]

Punjabi suits edit

The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan and is known as a "Punjabi suit"[68][69] with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits[70] (which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits).[71] The shalwar is wide at the top but fits closely to the legs and is gathered at the ankles.[72] The Punjabi shalwar is also cut straight and gathered at the ankles with a loose band reinforced with coarse material. In rural Punjab, the shalwar is still called the suthan, which is a different garment that was popular in previous centuries,[73] alongside the churidar and kameez combination (which is still popular).[74] In Britain,[75][76] British Asian women from the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent have brought the dress to the mainstream, and even high-fashion,[77] appeal.[78] The Punjabi suit is popular in other regions of the Indian subcontinent,[79][80][81] such as Mumbai and Sindh.[82] The popularity of Punjabi suits in India was extentuated during the 1960s through Hindi cinema.[83] Punjabi suits are also popular among young women in Bangladesh[84] and are especially popular amongst school girls in India.[85] The outfit is also popular in Afghanistan,[86] where it is called the Punjabi.[87][88][89]

 
School girls wearing Patiala salwar suits

Another common type of Punjabi shalwar kameez is the Patiala salwar which has many folds and originates in the city of Patiala.

Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the shalwar which hails from the Pothohar region of Punjab, Pakistan and is known as the Pothohari shalwar.[74] The Pothohari shalwar retains the wideness of the older Punjabi suthan and also has some folds. The kameez is also wide. The head scarf is traditionally large,[90] similar to the chador or phulkari that was used throughout the plains of the Punjab region.[74]

 
A Pakistani man in Saraiki shalwar suit

Saraiki shalwar suits are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit.

The Bahawalpuri shalwar[91] originates from the Bahawalpur region of Punjab, Pakistan. The Bahawalpuri shalwar is very wide and baggy[92] with many voluminous folds.[93] The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material.[94] The other name for these types of mixed cloth is shuja khani.[95] The Bahawalpuri shalwar is worn with the Bahawalpur style kameez, the Punjabi kurta or chola.[96]

The Multani shalwar, also known as the 'ghaire wali' or 'Saraiki ghaire wali' shalwar as it is very wide around the waist, originates from the Multan area of the Punjab region. The style is similar to the Sindhi kancha shalwar as both are derivatives of the pantaloon shalwar worn in Iraq[98] and adopted in these locations during the 7th century A.D.[99][100][101] The Multani shalwar is very wide, baggy,[102] and full, and has folds like the Punjabi suthan.[103] The upper garments include the Punjabi kameez and the chola of the Punjab region.[104]

An older variety of shalwar kameez of the Punjab region is the Punjabi suthan[105] and kurta suit. The Punjabi suthan is a local variation of the ancient svasthana tight fitting trousers which have been used in the Punjab region since the ancient period[106][107] and were worn with the tunic called varbana[108] which was tight fitting.

The Punjabi suthan is arranged in plaits and uses large amounts of material (traditionally coloured cotton with vertical silk lines, called sussi)[109] of up to 20 yards hanging in many folds.[110] The suthan ends at the ankles with a tight band[111][112] which distinguishes the suthan from a shalwar.[74] The modern equivalent of the loose Punjabi suthan are the cowl pants and dhoti shalwars which have many folds.

Some versions of the Punjabi suthan tighten from the knees down to the ankles (a remnant of the svasthana). If a tight band is not used, the ends of the suthan fit closely around the ankles. The Jodhpuri breeches devised during the 1870s by Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur[113] offer a striking slim line resemblance to the centuries-old tight Punjabi suthan, although the churidar is cited as its source.[114][115] The tight pantaloon style suthan was popular with the Indian Cavalry during the 19th and early 20th centurie; they were dyed in Multani mutti or mitti (clay/fuller's earth), which gave the garments a yellow colour.[116]

The kurta is a remnant of the 11th-century female kurtaka which was a shirt extending to the middle of the body with side slits[117] worn in parts of north India[118] which has remained a traditional garment for women in Punjab,[119] albeit longer than the kurtaka. The suthan was traditionally worn with a long kurta but can also be worn with a short kurti or frocks. Modern versions of the kurta can be knee length. The head scarf is also traditionally long but again, modern versions are shorter.

The outfit in Jammu is the Dogri kurta and suthan.[120] When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants[121] or suthan, in Jammu, and churidar suthan in the Punjab region[122] and some parts of Himachal Pradesh.

Sindhi suits edit

The traditional Sindhi shalwar,[124] also called kancha,[125] are wide pantaloons[126] which are wide down the legs and are also wide at the ankles.[125] The Sindhi shalwar is plaited at the waist.[127] The kancha shalwar is traditionally worn with either the Sindhi cholo (blouse) by women, or a knee length robe which flares out, by men.

The other styles of shalwar kameez are female Sindhi suthan and cholo and male Sindhi suthan and angelo.[128]

See also edit

Notes edit

Explanatory notes edit

  1. ^ A Dictionary of Urdu, Classical Hindi, and English: chāk derives from the Persian "چاك ćāk, Fissure, cleft, rent, slit, a narrow opening (intentionally left in clothes)."[15]
  2. ^ Cannon: "... loans, a rubric term for loanwords and various kinds of translation"[43]

Citations edit

  1. ^ Derailing Democracy in Afghanistan: Elections in an Unstable Political Landscape, Columbia University Press, 2013, p. 178, ISBN 978-0-231-53574-8, For example, many politicians will wear suits while in Kabul, but change into shalwar kemeez, a traditional costume of loose pants and a tunic, when returning to their home provinces to emphasize their local connections.
  2. ^ a b "shalwar", Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 15 April 2019 (subscription or participating institution membership required)
  3. ^ "kameez", Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.), Oxford University Press, retrieved 15 April 2019 (subscription or participating institution membership required)
  4. ^ a b c d Stevenson, Angus; Waite, Maurice (2011), Concise Oxford English Dictionary: Book & CD-ROM Set, Oxford University Press, p. 1272, ISBN 978-0-19-960110-3, Salwar/Shalwar: A pair of light, loose, pleated trousers, usually tapering to a tight fit around the ankles, worn by women from South Asia typically with a kameez (the two together being a salwar kameez). Origin From Persian and Urdu šalwār.
  5. ^ Donnan, Hastings (1991), Economy and Culture in Pakistan: Migrants and Cities in a Muslim Society, Palgrave Macmillan UK, p. 149, ISBN 978-1-349-11401-6, ... wearing shalwar qameez, Pakistan's national dress of baggy trousers and loose knee-length shirt.
  6. ^ Lewis-Beck, Michael; Bryman, Alan E; Liao, Tim Futing (2003), The SAGE Encyclopedia of Social Science Research Methods, SAGE Publications, p. 188, ISBN 978-1-4522-6145-4, shalwar qameez (Pakistani clothes)
  7. ^ shalwar kameez, loose trousers which are narrow at the bottom and a long loose shirt, worn by some South Asian women and, in some countries, men. {{cite encyclopedia}}: |work= ignored (help)
  8. ^ Anesa, Patrizia (2018), Lexical Innovation in World Englishes: Cross-fertilization and Evolving Paradigms, Taylor & Francis, p. 178, ISBN 978-1-351-10933-8, Other compounds are, for instance, ... salwar-kameez. ... It may also be described as an internationalism given its origin (Urdu). This word-formation process is based on the combination of two elements which are two garments (baggy pants and a tunic or shirt) and constitute an outfit typical of South and Central Asia.
  9. ^ Farrar, Max; Valli, Yasmin (2012), Islam in the West: Key Issues in Multiculturalism, Palgrave Macmillan UK, p. 101, ISBN 978-1-137-02506-7, A 'Shalwar Kameez' is a form of dress worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia, combining a long shirt worn over loose fitting tapered trousers.
  10. ^ Gavrilova, Raĭna; Gavrilova, Rajna D. (1999), Bulgarian Urban Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries, Susquehanna University Press, p. 145, ISBN 978-1-57591-015-4
  11. ^ Cole, Jeffrey E. (2011), Ethnic Groups of Europe: An Encyclopedia: An Encyclopedia, ABC-CLIO, p. 289, ISBN 978-1-59884-303-3
  12. ^ Scarce, Jennifer M. (2014), Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East, Routledge, p. 73, ISBN 978-1-136-78385-2
  13. ^ Gole, Nilufer; Göle, Nilüfer (1996), The Forbidden Modern: Civilization and Veiling, University of Michigan Press, p. 60, ISBN 0-472-06630-7
  14. ^ Stevenson, Angus; Waite, Maurice (2011), Concise Oxford English Dictionary: Book & CD-ROM Set, Oxford University Press, p. 774, ISBN 978-0-19-960110-3, Kameez: A long tunic worn by many people from South Asia, typically with a salwar or churidars. Origin: From Arabic qamīṣ, perhaps from late Latin camisia (see chemise).
  15. ^ Platts, John Thompson (February 2015) [1884], A dictionary of Urdu, classical Hindi, and English (online ed.), London: W. H. Allen & Co., p. 418
  16. ^ Shukla, Pravina (2015). The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India. Indiana University Press. p. 75. ISBN 978-0-253-02121-2. You can buy an entire three-piece salwar suit, or a two-piece suit that consists of either a readymade kurta or a kurta cloth piece, each with a matching dupatta. For these, you must have the salwar pants stitched from cloth you buy separately. A third option would be to buy a two-piece ensemble, consisting of the top and pants, leaving you the task of buying an appropriate dupatta, or using one you already own, or buying a strip of cloth and having it dyed to your desire. The end result will always be a three-piece ensemble, but a customer may start with one piece (only the kurta) or two pieces (kurta and pants, or kurta and dupatta), and exercise her creativity and fashion sense to end up with the complete salwar kurta outfit.
  17. ^ a b Mooney, Nicola (2011), Rural Nostalgias and Transnational Dreams: Identity and Modernity Among Jat Sikhs, University of Toronto Press, p. 260, ISBN 978-0-8020-9257-1, The salwar-kameez is a form of dress that has been adopted widely in Punjab and is now known in English as the Punjabi suit; J. P. S. Uberoi suggests that the salwar-kameez is an Afghani import to Punjab (1998 personal communication). Punjabi forms of dress are therefore constructs or inventions of tradition rather than having historical veracity.
  18. ^ Tarlo, Emma (1996), Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, p. 28, ISBN 978-0-226-78976-7, The comparatively limited range of stitched clothes available in pre-medieval India was, however, greatly expanded during the Sultanate and Moghul periods when various types of trousers, robes and tunics gained in popularity (Chaudhuri 1976: 51). ... Muslim women generally wore a veil (dupata), a long tunic (kamiz) with trousers (shalwar) or the wide flared skirt-like trouser (gharara). Following the Muslim conquest of northern India, many Hindu women gradually adopted such dress, eventually making it the regional style for parts of Northern India.
  19. ^ Tarlo, Emma (1996), Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, University of Chicago Press, p. 133, ISBN 978-0-226-78976-7, The shalwar kamiz, though introduced to India by Muslims, has been worn for centuries by both Hindus and Muslims in parts of northern India (see chapter 2). It has recently become the acceptable garb of female college students of all religions throughout the subcontinent. However, once married, Hindu women often revert to saris unless they either live in the far northern states or belong to a cosmopolitan urban elite. In most rural areas, the shalwar kamiz has retained its Islamic associations more strongly than in cities and is worn only by the educated few.
  20. ^ Sun, Ming-Ju (2001), Traditional Fashions from India Paper Dolls, Courier Corporation, p. 19, ISBN 978-0-486-41328-0, Much of traditional Indian women's clothing changed in the 12th century, when Muslims conquered north and central India. New dress styles were developed to cover the body as much as possible, befitting Islamic preferences. One option was a costume of wide-legged trousers (salwar) snugly fitted around the calves, worn with a long tunic (kameez) and short, fitted jacket.
  21. ^ Fraile, Sandra Santos (11 July 2013), "Sikhs in Barcelona", in Blanes, Ruy; Mapril, José (eds.), Sites and Politics of Religious Diversity in Southern Europe: The Best of All Gods, BRILL, p. 263, ISBN 978-90-04-25524-1, The shalwar kamiz was worn traditionally by Muslim women and gradually adopted by many Hindu women following the Muslim conquest of northern India. Eventually, it became the regional style for parts of northern India, as in Punjab where it has been worn for centuries.
  22. ^ Shome, Raka (2014), Diana and Beyond: White Femininity, National Identity, and Contemporary Media Culture, University of Illinois Press, pp. 102–03, ISBN 978-0-252-09668-6, The salwar kameez entered India (when Pakistan, Bangladesh, and current-day India together made up India or the British Raj) as early as 12th century through Mughal (Muslim) invasions from Central and West Asia. India and Pakistan have a strong Persian influence. Until before India's independence from the British, it is Muslim women (and men) in the then British Raj (the term used to refer to India before independence) who primarily wore the salwar kameez, although there were gender and regional variations in style. After Pakistan/Indian independence from the British, the salwar kameez became an everyday clothing item especially for North Indian women (including Sikh women, although Sikhs are not Muslims) and Pakistani women because the influence of Muslim culture was the strongest in Pakistan and North India around the time of independence.
  23. ^ Marsden, Magnus (2005). Living Islam: Muslim Religious Experience in Pakistan's North-West Frontier. Cambridge University Press. p. 37. ISBN 978-1-139-44837-6. The village's men and boys largely dress in sombre colours in the loose trousers and long shirt (shalwar kameez) worn across Pakistan. Older men often wear woollen Chitrali caps (pakol), waistcoats and long coats (chugha), made by Chitrali tailors (darzi) who skills are renowned across Pakistan.
  24. ^ Haines, Chad (2013), Nation, Territory, and Globalization in Pakistan: Traversing the Margins, Routledge, p. 162, ISBN 978-1-136-44997-0, the shalwar kameez happens to be worn by just about everyone in Pakistan, including in all of Gilgit-Baltistan.
  25. ^ Ozyegin, Gul (2016). Gender and Sexuality in Muslim Cultures. Routledge. p. 222. ISBN 978-1-317-13051-2. What is common in all the cases is the wearing of shalwar, kameez, and dupatta, the national dress of Pakistan.
  26. ^ Johnson, Thomas H. (2018), Taliban Narratives: The Use and Power of Stories in the Afghanistan Conflict, Oxford University Press, p. 249, ISBN 978-0-19-091167-6, The leaflet shows an Afghan maile dressed in usual attire—a shalwar kameez and woolen hat, or pakol.
  27. ^ Khandelwal, Madhulika Shankar (2002), Becoming American, Being Indian: An Immigrant Community in New York City, Cornell University Press, p. 43, ISBN 0-8014-8807-9, Even highly educated women pursuing careers continue to wear traditional dress in urban India, although men of similar status long ago adopted Western attire. The forms of dress most popular with urban Indian women are the sari, the long wrapped and draped dress-like garment, worn throughout India, and the salwar-kameez or kurta-pyjama, a two-piece suit garment, sometimes also called Punjabi because of its region of origin. Whereas the sari can be considered the national dress of Indian women, the salwar-kameez, though originally from the north, has been adopted all over India as more comfortable attire than the sari.
  28. ^ Condra, Jill (2013), Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing around the World, ABC-CLIO, p. 570, ISBN 9780313376375, Today, throughout India and especially in the northern regions and in larger cities such as Delhi, the shalwar kameez is worn frequently by Muslims and non-Muslims alike; the style for women has been widely adopted as an alternative to the sari and to Western clothing, particularly by college-age and unmarried young women. ... The kurta for men is similar in form and style to the shalwar kameez. The kurta, or tunic-length shirt, is collarless or has a mandarin- or Nehru style collar.
  29. ^ Farrar, Max; Valli, Yasmin (2012). Islam in the West: Key Issues in Multiculturalism. Palgrave Macmillan UK. p. 101. ISBN 978-1-137-02506-7. The women's form of Shalwar Kameez is usually accompanied by a scarf or 'dupatta' which can be worn around the neck, covering the chest area for 'modesty' or over the hair as a head covering.
  30. ^ Ozyegin, Gul (2016), Gender and Sexuality in Muslim Cultures, Routledge, p. 222, ISBN 978-1-317-13051-2, a dupatta is a long, wide piece of cloth measuring approximately 2-2.5 meters long and 1 meter wide.
  31. ^ Shukla, Pravina (2015), The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India, Indiana University Press, p. 72, ISBN 978-0-253-02121-2, Muslim and Punjabi women—whether Muslim, Sikh, or Hindu—often wear the dupatta over the head to create a modest look while framing the face with color. When entering a temple, Hindu women might comparably use their dupattas to cover their heads. Though the dupatta is often made of flimsy cloth and does not actually cover the body, its presence implies modesty, like many of the outer garments worn by Muslim women that do not cover much but do provide a symbolic extra layer, ...
  32. ^ Koerner, Stephanie (2016), Unquiet Pasts: Risk Society, Lived Cultural Heritage, Re-designing Reflexivity, Taylor & Francis, p. 405, ISBN 978-1-351-87667-4, The Pakistani National dress worn by women is Shalwar Kameez. This consists of a long tunic (Kameez) teamed with a wide legged trouser (Shalwar) that skims in at the bottom accompanied by a duppata, which is a less stringent alternative to the burqa. Modern versions of this National dress have evolved into less modest versions. Shalwar have become more low cut so that the hips are visible and are worn with a shorter length of Kameez which has high splits and may have a lowcut neckline and backline as well as being sleeveless or having cropped sleeves.
  33. ^ "Shalwar". Dictionary.com. Retrieved 2 May 2019.
  34. ^ Steingass, Francis Joseph (1892), A Comprehensive Persian-English dictionary, including the Arabic words and phrases to be met with in Persian literature, London: Routledge & K. Paul online; last updated 2007
  35. ^ Shakespear, John (1834), A dictionary, Hindustani and English: with a copious index, fitting the work to serve, also, as a dictionary of English and Hindustani. 3rd ed., much enl., London: Printed for the author by J.L. Cox and Son: Sold by Parbury, Allen, & Co. online, updated 2008
  36. ^ McGregor, Ronald Stuart (1993), The Oxford Hindi-English Dictionary, Oxford University Press, p. 945, ISBN 978-0-19-563846-2
  37. ^ Stevenson, Angus (2010), Oxford Dictionary of English, Oxford University Press, p. 955, ISBN 978-0-19-957112-3
  38. ^ Wehr, Hans (1979), A Dictionary of Modern Written Arabic, Otto Harrassowitz Verlag, pp. 924–, ISBN 978-3-447-02002-2
  39. ^ Steingass, Francis Joseph (1892), A Comprehensive Persian-English Dictionary: Including the Arabic Words and Phrases to be Met with in Persian Literature, London: Routledge & K. Paul, pp. 989–, ISBN 9788120606708
  40. ^ Platts, John T. (John Thompson) (1884), A dictionary of Urdu, classical Hindi, and English, London: W. H. Allen & Co., p. 795 (online; updated February 2015)
  41. ^ McGregor, Ronald Stuart (1993), The Oxford Hindi-English Dictionary, Oxford University Press, ISBN 978-0-19-864339-5
  42. ^ Anesa, Patrizia (2018), Lexical Innovation in World Englishes: Cross-fertilization and Evolving Paradigms, Taylor & Francis, p. 178, ISBN 978-1-351-10933-8
  43. ^ a b Garland Cannon (2000), "Problems in Studying Loans", Proceedings of the 25th Annual Meeting of the Berkeley Linguistics Society: 326–336
  44. ^ Garland Cannon (1997), "90 post-1949 Arabic loans in written English", Word, 48 (2): 171–194, doi:10.1080/00437956.1997.11432466 Quote: Shalwar-kameez is an old English loanword still used in Urdu to denote women's loose-fitting trousers and long tunic. Its reappearance by 1955 to denote roughly the same sense can raise the question of whether there is not simply a revival of a word once commonly used by British expatriates on the subcontinent, except that it is now extended to this attire as used in the West. (page 183)"
  45. ^ Koerner, Stephanie; Russell, Ian (2010-08-16). Unquiet Pasts: Risk Society, Lived Cultural Heritage, Re-Designing Reflexivity – Stephanie Koerner, Ian Russell – Google Books. Ashgate Publishing. ISBN 9780754675488. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
  46. ^ Padmavati, B (2009) Techniques Of Drafting And Pattern Making Garments For Kids And Adolescents [1]
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General and cited references edit

  • Bachu, Parminder (2004), , London: Routledge. Pp. xii, 196, ISBN 0415072212, archived from the original on December 31, 2008
  • Breidenbach, Joana; Pál, Nyíri; Zcaronupanov, Ines (2004), "Fashionable Books", Identities: Global Studies in Power and Culture, 11 (4): 619–628, doi:10.1080/10702890490883885, S2CID 214654975
  • Walton-Roberts, Margaret; Pratt, Geraldine (2005), "Mobile Modernities: One South Asian Family Negotiates Immigration, Gender and Class in Canada", Gender, Place & Culture, 12 (2): 173–195, doi:10.1080/09663690500094823, S2CID 144322845.

External links edit

  • Himal: "The Salwar Revolution"
  • The Hindu: "The Spread of the Salwar"
  • Fatima Jinnah wearing shalwar qameez

shalwar, kameez, article, just, about, trousers, salwar, homeland, episode, shalwar, kameez, homeland, also, salwar, kameez, less, commonly, shalwar, qameez, traditional, combination, dress, worn, women, some, regions, south, asia, central, asia, schoolgirls, . For the article just about the trousers see Salwar For the Homeland episode see Shalwar Kameez Homeland Shalwar kameez 2 3 also salwar kameez 4 and less commonly shalwar qameez 5 6 is a traditional combination dress worn by women and in some regions by men in South Asia 4 7 and Central Asia 8 9 Schoolgirls in Abbottabad Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Pakistan in shalwars with cuffed hems and kameez with collars Boys in Badakshan Afghanistan wearing kameez tunics showing side seams left open below the waist 1 Women in the kitchen at Harmandir Sahib Amritsar India displaying the wide ranging colors and designs of shalwar kameezShalwars are trousers which are atypically wide at the waist but which narrow to a cuffed bottom They are held up by a drawstring or elastic belt which causes them to become pleated around the waist 4 The trousers can be wide and baggy or they can be cut quite narrow on the bias Shalwars have been traditionally worn in a wide region which includes Eastern Europe 10 11 West Asia 12 13 Central Asia and South Asia The kameez is a long shirt or tunic 14 The side seams are left open below the waist line the opening known as the chaak note 1 which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement The kameez is usually cut straight and flat older kameez use traditional cuts modern kameez are more likely to have European inspired set in sleeves The kameez may have a European style collar a Mandarin collar or it may be collarless in the latter case its design as a women s garment is similar to a kurta The combination garment is sometimes called salwar kurta salwar suit or Punjabi suit 16 17 The shalwar and kameez were introduced into South Asia by arriving Muslims in the north in the 13th century at first worn by Muslim women their use gradually spread making them a regional style 18 19 20 especially in the historical Punjab region 17 21 22 The shalwar kameez is a widely worn 23 24 and national dress 25 of Pakistan It is also widely worn by men in Afghanistan 26 by women and some men in the Punjab region of India from which it has been adopted by women throughout India 27 and more generally in South Asia 28 When women wear the shalwar kameez in some regions they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck 29 30 In South Asia the dupatta is also employed as a form of modesty although it is made of delicate material it obscures the upper body s contours by passing over the shoulders For Muslim women the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burqa see hijab and purdah for Sikh and Hindu women the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered as in a temple or the presence of elders 31 Everywhere in South Asia modern versions of the attire have evolved the shalwars are worn lower down on the waist the kameez have shorter lengths higher splits lower necklines and backlines and with cropped sleeves or without sleeves 32 Contents 1 Etymology and history 2 Description 3 Styles 4 Different forms 4 1 Anarkali suit 4 2 Afghanistan suits 4 3 Peshawari shalwar suit 4 4 Balochi suits 4 5 Phiran poots and shalwar 4 6 Punjabi suits 4 7 Sindhi suits 5 See also 6 Notes 6 1 Explanatory notes 6 2 Citations 7 General and cited references 8 External linksEtymology and history edit nbsp Plate 40 TURKEY SYRIA PALESTINE AND EGYPT Right Wide taffeta women s trousers tshalvar Turkish 1922 W Gentz Collection nbsp Plate 41 TURKEY SYRIA MESOPOTAMIA Three differently cut men s trousers A blue cord gathers the trousers into pleats at the bottom 1922 Tilke Coll and Berlin Ethnographic Museum nbsp Plate 85 AFGHANISTAN Trousers 460 cm wide shown on this plate are not even the widest worn in Afghanistan They are fitted in folds to the waist by knitted silk band 1922 Origs in private collection nbsp INDIA Salwar Women s trousers Kutch Gujarat 19th early 20th century Cleveland Museum of Art The English word shalwar derives ultimately from Persian شلوار shalwar or shulwar or shilwar short vowels are not written in that script so the reading is ambiguous 2 4 33 34 35 36 nbsp Plate 79 South CAUCASUS Jacket gedjalyk and trousers shalvar of an Aissor 1922 Origs in Caucasus Museum Tiflis nbsp Plate 90 PUNJAB Man s shirt Cashmere The opening for neck is Persian in shape Man s trousers Cashmere Wide shape 1922 Orig in Berlin Ethnographic Museum nbsp Plate 91 PUNJAB CASHMERE Woman s garment Cashmere These garments are made of diagonally woven Cashmere wool 1922 Origs in Berlin Ethnographic Museum nbsp A woman s three piece combination comprising trousers tunic and head scarf ca 1900 Indianapolis Museum of Art The English word kameez derives from Arabic qamiṣ Arabic قميص plural قمصان qumṣan perhaps from late Latin camisia 37 38 39 40 41 The English word combination shalwar kameez is an internationalism derived from the Urdu language according to Patrizia Anesa author of Lexical Innovation in World Englishes Cross fertilization and Evolving Paradigms Salwar kameez may also be described as an internationalism given its origin Urdu This word formation process is based on the combination of two elements which are two garments baggy pants and a tunic or shirt and constitute an outfit typical of South and Central Asia 42 Author Garland Cannon in Problems in Studying Loans note 2 in Proceedings of the 25th Annual Meeting of the Berkeley Linguistics Society says the old Urdu shalwar kameez women s loose fitting trousers and long tunic was first used in English by colonial residents on the Indian subcontinent page 332 43 44 Description editThe shalwar are loose pajama like trousers The legs are wide at the top and narrow at the ankle The kameez is a long shirt or tunic often seen with a Western style collar however for female apparel the term is now loosely applied to collarless or mandarin collared kurtas The kameez might be worn with pajamas as well either for fashion or comfort Some kameez styles have side seams known as the chaak left open below the waist line giving the wearer greater freedom of movement 45 Styles editThe kameez can be sewn straight and flat in an A shape design 46 or flowing like a dress there are a variety of styles Modern kameez styles are more likely to have European inspired set in sleeves If the tailor s taste or skill is displayed this will be seen in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the kameez The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline sewn in diaphanous fabrics or styled in cap sleeve or sleeveless designs There are many styles of shalwar the Peshawari shalwar Balochi shalwar Sindhi choreno and Punjabi shalwar Although various regions of the Indian subcontinent now wear the outfit in its various forms the outfit was originally only popular on a wide scale in Afghanistan Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Balochistan 47 and the Punjab region of Indian subcontinent 48 49 50 However the shalwar kameez has now become popular across the Indian subcontinent 51 Different forms editThe following are some of the styles of shalwar kameez Anarkali suit edit nbsp Priyanka Chopra modeling an Anarkali suitThe shalwar kameez known as the Anarkali suit is named after the court dancer from Lahore Pakistan 52 This suit has a timeless style which has become very popular It is made up of a long frock style top and features a slim fitted bottom This style of suit links the Indian subcontinent with the women s firaq partug frock and shalwar of northwestern Pakistan and Afghanistan and to the traditional women s clothing of parts of Central Asia 53 It also links to the Punjab region where the Anarkali suit is similar to the anga 54 55 and the Peshwaz worn in Jammu 56 Afghanistan suits edit The styles of shalwar kameez worn in Afghanistan include various styles of khet partug 57 perahan tunban and Firaq partug worn by Pashtuns Tajiks and Hazaras 58 The shalwar tends to be loose and rests above the ankles 59 nbsp Perahan tunban worn by most Pashtun males in Afghanistan and Pakistan nbsp Man in Afghan clothing perahan tunban nbsp Afghan children wearing traditional clothes in Kabul nbsp Men wearing perahan tunban a form of shalwar kameez at Kabul Airport in AfghanistanPeshawari shalwar suit edit nbsp Traditional Khet partug traditional loose Peshawari shalwar The traditional dress of Peshawar and other parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Pakistan is the khalqa gown which opens at the front 60 or shirt which does not open at the front 61 and the Peshawari shalwar which is very loose down to the ankles 62 The Peshawari shalwar can be used with a number of upper garments and is part of the clothing of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Balochi suits edit The clothing of Balochistan Pakistan includes the shalwar kameez which when worn by males consists of a very baggy shalwar 63 using large lengths of cloth 64 The kameez is also loose 65 and traditionally is long with long sleeves 66 The present Balochi shalwar kameez replaced the earlier version which consisted of a robe to the ankles and a shalwar using cloth of up to 40 yards The Pashtuns in northern Balochistan wear clothes similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan nbsp Balochi male shalwar kameez Quetta 1867 nbsp Traditional Balochi suits nbsp Tribal elders April 1896The female Balochi suit consists of the head scarf long dress and a shalwar nbsp Balochi traditional dress nbsp Baluchi dress nbsp Balochi embroidery nbsp Traditional Balochi dressesPhiran poots and shalwar edit In Kashmir the outfit consists of the phiran poots and shalwar 67 nbsp Left and right phiran shalwar centre Punjabi suits nbsp Kashmiri phiran nbsp A man from Srinagar wearing phiran nbsp Kashmiri women in traditional long phiran 1870 nbsp Kashmiri Pandits in phiran and pajama nbsp Men in Kashmiri phiran and poots 1875Punjabi suits edit The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan and is known as a Punjabi suit 68 69 with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits 70 which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits 71 The shalwar is wide at the top but fits closely to the legs and is gathered at the ankles 72 The Punjabi shalwar is also cut straight and gathered at the ankles with a loose band reinforced with coarse material In rural Punjab the shalwar is still called the suthan which is a different garment that was popular in previous centuries 73 alongside the churidar and kameez combination which is still popular 74 In Britain 75 76 British Asian women from the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent have brought the dress to the mainstream and even high fashion 77 appeal 78 The Punjabi suit is popular in other regions of the Indian subcontinent 79 80 81 such as Mumbai and Sindh 82 The popularity of Punjabi suits in India was extentuated during the 1960s through Hindi cinema 83 Punjabi suits are also popular among young women in Bangladesh 84 and are especially popular amongst school girls in India 85 The outfit is also popular in Afghanistan 86 where it is called the Punjabi 87 88 89 nbsp Punjabi Shalwar kameez nbsp Women in Punjabi suits nbsp Miss Pooja of the Punjab region in a Punjabi suit nbsp Men s Punjabi Shalwaar qamiz nbsp Girls arriving at school Jammu ca 1875 ca 1940 nbsp Women in ornate shalwars nbsp Rohi Cholistan woman s bandhani dress Punjab Pakistan nbsp First Punjabi Wikipedia Workshop women in Punjabi suits nbsp Women wearing traditional clothes in a Punjabi kitchen 1899 nbsp School girls wearing Patiala salwar suitsAnother common type of Punjabi shalwar kameez is the Patiala salwar which has many folds and originates in the city of Patiala Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the shalwar which hails from the Pothohar region of Punjab Pakistan and is known as the Pothohari shalwar 74 The Pothohari shalwar retains the wideness of the older Punjabi suthan and also has some folds The kameez is also wide The head scarf is traditionally large 90 similar to the chador or phulkari that was used throughout the plains of the Punjab region 74 nbsp A Pakistani man in Saraiki shalwar suitSaraiki shalwar suits are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit The Bahawalpuri shalwar 91 originates from the Bahawalpur region of Punjab Pakistan The Bahawalpuri shalwar is very wide and baggy 92 with many voluminous folds 93 The material traditionally used for the Bahawalpuri shalwar and suthan is known as Sufi which is a mixture of cotton warp mixed with silk weft and gold threads running down the material 94 The other name for these types of mixed cloth is shuja khani 95 The Bahawalpuri shalwar is worn with the Bahawalpur style kameez the Punjabi kurta or chola 96 nbsp Nawab Muhammad of Bahawalpur 1868 1900 wearing a loose Bahawalpuri shalwar nbsp Prince Suba Sadiq Abbasi Bahawalpur nbsp Bahawalpur kameez nbsp Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth died 1966 97 in the Bahawalpuri shalwarThe Multani shalwar also known as the ghaire wali or Saraiki ghaire wali shalwar as it is very wide around the waist originates from the Multan area of the Punjab region The style is similar to the Sindhi kancha shalwar as both are derivatives of the pantaloon shalwar worn in Iraq 98 and adopted in these locations during the 7th century A D 99 100 101 The Multani shalwar is very wide baggy 102 and full and has folds like the Punjabi suthan 103 The upper garments include the Punjabi kameez and the chola of the Punjab region 104 An older variety of shalwar kameez of the Punjab region is the Punjabi suthan 105 and kurta suit The Punjabi suthan is a local variation of the ancient svasthana tight fitting trousers which have been used in the Punjab region since the ancient period 106 107 and were worn with the tunic called varbana 108 which was tight fitting The Punjabi suthan is arranged in plaits and uses large amounts of material traditionally coloured cotton with vertical silk lines called sussi 109 of up to 20 yards hanging in many folds 110 The suthan ends at the ankles with a tight band 111 112 which distinguishes the suthan from a shalwar 74 The modern equivalent of the loose Punjabi suthan are the cowl pants and dhoti shalwars which have many folds Some versions of the Punjabi suthan tighten from the knees down to the ankles a remnant of the svasthana If a tight band is not used the ends of the suthan fit closely around the ankles The Jodhpuri breeches devised during the 1870s by Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur 113 offer a striking slim line resemblance to the centuries old tight Punjabi suthan although the churidar is cited as its source 114 115 The tight pantaloon style suthan was popular with the Indian Cavalry during the 19th and early 20th centurie they were dyed in Multani mutti or mitti clay fuller s earth which gave the garments a yellow colour 116 The kurta is a remnant of the 11th century female kurtaka which was a shirt extending to the middle of the body with side slits 117 worn in parts of north India 118 which has remained a traditional garment for women in Punjab 119 albeit longer than the kurtaka The suthan was traditionally worn with a long kurta but can also be worn with a short kurti or frocks Modern versions of the kurta can be knee length The head scarf is also traditionally long but again modern versions are shorter nbsp 19th century Punjabi suthan suit worn by the lady on the right nbsp Women in Punjabi suthan 1890 nbsp Woman on left in loose Punjabi suthan suit nbsp Punjabi woman in Punjabi suthan and short kurta 1874 nbsp Ancient svasthana and varbana outfit worn during the Gupta Empire the basis of the Punjabi suthan suit nbsp Men in tight Punjabi suthan 1893 nbsp The Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan Abbasi V Bahadur 1883 1907 of Bahawalpur State in suthan nbsp Bertrand Blanchard Acosta in jodhpurs and gogglesThe outfit in Jammu is the Dogri kurta and suthan 120 When the tight part of the suthan up to the knees has multiple close fitting folds the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants 121 or suthan in Jammu and churidar suthan in the Punjab region 122 and some parts of Himachal Pradesh nbsp Men and boys wearing a knee length variation of the Punjabi ghuttana 123 and Dogri kurta The full suthan is tight from the knees to the ankles associated with the Punjab region nbsp Punjab Hills 1895 Kulu woman in churidar suthan Himachal PradeshSindhi suits edit The traditional Sindhi shalwar 124 also called kancha 125 are wide pantaloons 126 which are wide down the legs and are also wide at the ankles 125 The Sindhi shalwar is plaited at the waist 127 The kancha shalwar is traditionally worn with either the Sindhi cholo blouse by women or a knee length robe which flares out by men nbsp Man in Sindhi traditional Kancha shalwar nbsp Girl from Karachi Sindh in a shalwar and blouse c 1870 Oriental and India Office Collection British Library nbsp Man in Sindhi long angerkho 1845 nbsp Woman in Sind British India in Sindhi slim kancha shalwarThe other styles of shalwar kameez are female Sindhi suthan and cholo and male Sindhi suthan and angelo 128 nbsp Sindhi girl from Karachi Sind in Sindhi cholo and narrow suthan c 1870See also editAo dai Central Asian clothing Chemise Chikankari Churidar Dhoti Dupatta Gagra choli Khet partug Kurta Pencil skirt Pencil suit Perahan tunban Kashmiri phiran and poots Qamis Sari Sherwani Sirwal Turkish salvarNotes editExplanatory notes edit A Dictionary of Urdu Classical Hindi and English chak derives from the Persian چاك cak Fissure cleft rent slit a narrow opening intentionally left in clothes 15 Cannon loans a rubric term for loanwords and various kinds of translation 43 Citations edit Derailing Democracy in Afghanistan Elections in an Unstable Political Landscape Columbia University Press 2013 p 178 ISBN 978 0 231 53574 8 For example many politicians will wear suits while in Kabul but change into shalwar kemeez a traditional costume of loose pants and a tunic when returning to their home provinces to emphasize their local connections a b shalwar Oxford English Dictionary Online ed Oxford University Press retrieved 15 April 2019 subscription or participating institution membership required kameez Oxford English Dictionary Online ed Oxford University Press retrieved 15 April 2019 subscription or participating institution membership required a b c d Stevenson Angus Waite Maurice 2011 Concise Oxford English Dictionary Book amp CD ROM Set Oxford University Press p 1272 ISBN 978 0 19 960110 3 Salwar Shalwar A pair of light loose pleated trousers usually tapering to a tight fit around the ankles worn by women from South Asia typically with a kameez the two together being a salwar kameez Origin From Persian and Urdu salwar Donnan Hastings 1991 Economy and Culture in Pakistan Migrants and Cities in a Muslim Society Palgrave Macmillan UK p 149 ISBN 978 1 349 11401 6 wearing shalwar qameez Pakistan s national dress of baggy trousers and loose knee length shirt Lewis Beck Michael Bryman Alan E Liao Tim Futing 2003 The SAGE Encyclopedia of Social Science Research Methods SAGE Publications p 188 ISBN 978 1 4522 6145 4 shalwar qameez Pakistani clothes shalwar kameez loose trousers which are narrow at the bottom and a long loose shirt worn by some South Asian women and in some countries men a href Template Cite encyclopedia html title Template Cite encyclopedia cite encyclopedia a work ignored help Anesa Patrizia 2018 Lexical Innovation in World Englishes Cross fertilization and Evolving Paradigms Taylor amp Francis p 178 ISBN 978 1 351 10933 8 Other compounds are for instance salwar kameez It may also be described as an internationalism given its origin Urdu This word formation process is based on the combination of two elements which are two garments baggy pants and a tunic or shirt and constitute an outfit typical of South and Central Asia Farrar Max Valli Yasmin 2012 Islam in the West Key Issues in Multiculturalism Palgrave Macmillan UK p 101 ISBN 978 1 137 02506 7 A Shalwar Kameez is a form of dress worn by both men and women in South and Central Asia combining a long shirt worn over loose fitting tapered trousers Gavrilova Raĭna Gavrilova Rajna D 1999 Bulgarian Urban Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries Susquehanna University Press p 145 ISBN 978 1 57591 015 4 Cole Jeffrey E 2011 Ethnic Groups of Europe An Encyclopedia An Encyclopedia ABC CLIO p 289 ISBN 978 1 59884 303 3 Scarce Jennifer M 2014 Women s Costume of the Near and Middle East Routledge p 73 ISBN 978 1 136 78385 2 Gole Nilufer Gole Nilufer 1996 The Forbidden Modern Civilization and Veiling University of Michigan Press p 60 ISBN 0 472 06630 7 Stevenson Angus Waite Maurice 2011 Concise Oxford English Dictionary Book amp CD ROM Set Oxford University Press p 774 ISBN 978 0 19 960110 3 Kameez A long tunic worn by many people from South Asia typically with a salwar or churidars Origin From Arabic qamiṣ perhaps from late Latin camisia see chemise Platts John Thompson February 2015 1884 A dictionary of Urdu classical Hindi and English online ed London W H Allen amp Co p 418 Shukla Pravina 2015 The Grace of Four Moons Dress Adornment and the Art of the Body in Modern India Indiana University Press p 75 ISBN 978 0 253 02121 2 You can buy an entire three piece salwar suit or a two piece suit that consists of either a readymade kurta or a kurta cloth piece each with a matching dupatta For these you must have the salwar pants stitched from cloth you buy separately A third option would be to buy a two piece ensemble consisting of the top and pants leaving you the task of buying an appropriate dupatta or using one you already own or buying a strip of cloth and having it dyed to your desire The end result will always be a three piece ensemble but a customer may start with one piece only the kurta or two pieces kurta and pants or kurta and dupatta and exercise her creativity and fashion sense to end up with the complete salwar kurta outfit a b Mooney Nicola 2011 Rural Nostalgias and Transnational Dreams Identity and Modernity Among Jat Sikhs University of Toronto Press p 260 ISBN 978 0 8020 9257 1 The salwar kameez is a form of dress that has been adopted widely in Punjab and is now known in English as the Punjabi suit J P S Uberoi suggests that the salwar kameez is an Afghani import to Punjab 1998 personal communication Punjabi forms of dress are therefore constructs or inventions of tradition rather than having historical veracity Tarlo Emma 1996 Clothing Matters Dress and Identity in India Chicago and London University of Chicago Press p 28 ISBN 978 0 226 78976 7 The comparatively limited range of stitched clothes available in pre medieval India was however greatly expanded during the Sultanate and Moghul periods when various types of trousers robes and tunics gained in popularity Chaudhuri 1976 51 Muslim women generally wore a veil dupata a long tunic kamiz with trousers shalwar or the wide flared skirt like trouser gharara Following the Muslim conquest of northern India many Hindu women gradually adopted such dress eventually making it the regional style for parts of Northern India Tarlo Emma 1996 Clothing Matters Dress and Identity in India University of Chicago Press p 133 ISBN 978 0 226 78976 7 The shalwar kamiz though introduced to India by Muslims has been worn for centuries by both Hindus and Muslims in parts of northern India see chapter 2 It has recently become the acceptable garb of female college students of all religions throughout the subcontinent However once married Hindu women often revert to saris unless they either live in the far northern states or belong to a cosmopolitan urban elite In most rural areas the shalwar kamiz has retained its Islamic associations more strongly than in cities and is worn only by the educated few Sun Ming Ju 2001 Traditional Fashions from India Paper Dolls Courier Corporation p 19 ISBN 978 0 486 41328 0 Much of traditional Indian women s clothing changed in the 12th century when Muslims conquered north and central India New dress styles were developed to cover the body as much as possible befitting Islamic preferences One option was a costume of wide legged trousers salwar snugly fitted around the calves worn with a long tunic kameez and short fitted jacket Fraile Sandra Santos 11 July 2013 Sikhs in Barcelona in Blanes Ruy Mapril Jose eds Sites and Politics of Religious Diversity in Southern Europe The Best of All Gods BRILL p 263 ISBN 978 90 04 25524 1 The shalwar kamiz was worn traditionally by Muslim women and gradually adopted by many Hindu women following the Muslim conquest of northern India Eventually it became the regional style for parts of northern India as in Punjab where it has been worn for centuries Shome Raka 2014 Diana and Beyond White Femininity National Identity and Contemporary Media Culture University of Illinois Press pp 102 03 ISBN 978 0 252 09668 6 The salwar kameez entered India when Pakistan Bangladesh and current day India together made up India or the British Raj as early as 12th century through Mughal Muslim invasions from Central and West Asia India and Pakistan have a strong Persian influence Until before India s independence from the British it is Muslim women and men in the then British Raj the term used to refer to India before independence who primarily wore the salwar kameez although there were gender and regional variations in style After Pakistan Indian independence from the British the salwar kameez became an everyday clothing item especially for North Indian women including Sikh women although Sikhs are not Muslims and Pakistani women because the influence of Muslim culture was the strongest in Pakistan and North India around the time of independence Marsden Magnus 2005 Living Islam Muslim Religious Experience in Pakistan s North West Frontier Cambridge University Press p 37 ISBN 978 1 139 44837 6 The village s men and boys largely dress in sombre colours in the loose trousers and long shirt shalwar kameez worn across Pakistan Older men often wear woollen Chitrali caps pakol waistcoats and long coats chugha made by Chitrali tailors darzi who skills are renowned across Pakistan Haines Chad 2013 Nation Territory and Globalization in Pakistan Traversing the Margins Routledge p 162 ISBN 978 1 136 44997 0 the shalwar kameez happens to be worn by just about everyone in Pakistan including in all of Gilgit Baltistan Ozyegin Gul 2016 Gender and Sexuality in Muslim Cultures Routledge p 222 ISBN 978 1 317 13051 2 What is common in all the cases is the wearing of shalwar kameez and dupatta the national dress of Pakistan Johnson Thomas H 2018 Taliban Narratives The Use and Power of Stories in the Afghanistan Conflict Oxford University Press p 249 ISBN 978 0 19 091167 6 The leaflet shows an Afghan maile dressed in usual attire a shalwar kameez and woolen hat or pakol Khandelwal Madhulika Shankar 2002 Becoming American Being Indian An Immigrant Community in New York City Cornell University Press p 43 ISBN 0 8014 8807 9 Even highly educated women pursuing careers continue to wear traditional dress in urban India although men of similar status long ago adopted Western attire The forms of dress most popular with urban Indian women are the sari the long wrapped and draped dress like garment worn throughout India and the salwar kameez or kurta pyjama a two piece suit garment sometimes also called Punjabi because of its region of origin Whereas the sari can be considered the national dress of Indian women the salwar kameez though originally from the north has been adopted all over India as more comfortable attire than the sari Condra Jill 2013 Encyclopedia of National Dress Traditional Clothing around the World ABC CLIO p 570 ISBN 9780313376375 Today throughout India and especially in the northern regions and in larger cities such as Delhi the shalwar kameez is worn frequently by Muslims and non Muslims alike the style for women has been widely adopted as an alternative to the sari and to Western clothing particularly by college age and unmarried young women The kurta for men is similar in form and style to the shalwar kameez The kurta or tunic length shirt is collarless or has a mandarin or Nehru style collar Farrar Max Valli Yasmin 2012 Islam in the West Key Issues in Multiculturalism Palgrave Macmillan UK p 101 ISBN 978 1 137 02506 7 The women s form of Shalwar Kameez is usually accompanied by a scarf or dupatta which can be worn around the neck covering the chest area for modesty or over the hair as a head covering Ozyegin Gul 2016 Gender and Sexuality in Muslim Cultures Routledge p 222 ISBN 978 1 317 13051 2 a dupatta is a long wide piece of cloth measuring approximately 2 2 5 meters long and 1 meter wide Shukla Pravina 2015 The Grace of Four Moons Dress Adornment and the Art of the Body in Modern India Indiana University Press p 72 ISBN 978 0 253 02121 2 Muslim and Punjabi women whether Muslim Sikh or Hindu often wear the dupatta over the head to create a modest look while framing the face with color When entering a temple Hindu women might comparably use their dupattas to cover their heads Though the dupatta is often made of flimsy cloth and does not actually cover the body its presence implies modesty like many of the outer garments worn by Muslim women that do not cover much but do provide a symbolic extra layer Koerner Stephanie 2016 Unquiet Pasts Risk Society Lived Cultural Heritage Re designing Reflexivity Taylor amp Francis p 405 ISBN 978 1 351 87667 4 The Pakistani National dress worn by women is Shalwar Kameez This consists of a long tunic Kameez teamed with a wide legged trouser Shalwar that skims in at the bottom accompanied by a duppata which is a less stringent alternative to the burqa Modern versions of this National dress have evolved into less modest versions Shalwar have become more low cut so that the hips are visible and are worn with a shorter length of Kameez which has high splits and may have a lowcut neckline and backline as well as being sleeveless or having cropped sleeves Shalwar Dictionary com Retrieved 2 May 2019 Steingass Francis Joseph 1892 A Comprehensive Persian English dictionary including the Arabic words and phrases to be met with in Persian literature London Routledge amp K Paul online last updated 2007 Shakespear John 1834 A dictionary Hindustani and English with a copious index fitting the work to serve also as a dictionary of English and Hindustani 3rd ed much enl London Printed for the author by J L Cox and Son Sold by Parbury Allen amp Co online updated 2008 McGregor Ronald Stuart 1993 The Oxford Hindi English Dictionary Oxford University Press p 945 ISBN 978 0 19 563846 2 Stevenson Angus 2010 Oxford Dictionary of English Oxford University Press p 955 ISBN 978 0 19 957112 3 Wehr Hans 1979 A Dictionary of Modern Written Arabic Otto Harrassowitz Verlag pp 924 ISBN 978 3 447 02002 2 Steingass Francis Joseph 1892 A Comprehensive Persian English Dictionary Including the Arabic Words and Phrases to be Met with in Persian Literature London Routledge amp K Paul pp 989 ISBN 9788120606708 Platts John T John Thompson 1884 A dictionary of Urdu classical Hindi and English London W H Allen amp Co p 795 online updated February 2015 McGregor Ronald Stuart 1993 The Oxford Hindi English Dictionary Oxford University Press ISBN 978 0 19 864339 5 Anesa Patrizia 2018 Lexical Innovation in World Englishes Cross fertilization and Evolving Paradigms Taylor amp Francis p 178 ISBN 978 1 351 10933 8 a b Garland Cannon 2000 Problems in Studying Loans Proceedings of the 25th Annual Meeting of the Berkeley Linguistics Society 326 336 Garland Cannon 1997 90 post 1949 Arabic loans in written English Word 48 2 171 194 doi 10 1080 00437956 1997 11432466 Quote Shalwar kameez is an old English loanword still used in Urdu to denote women s loose fitting trousers and long tunic Its reappearance by 1955 to denote roughly the same sense can raise the question of whether there is not simply a revival of a word once commonly used by British expatriates on the subcontinent except that it is now extended to this attire as used in the West page 183 Koerner Stephanie Russell Ian 2010 08 16 Unquiet Pasts Risk Society Lived Cultural Heritage Re Designing Reflexivity Stephanie Koerner Ian Russell Google Books Ashgate Publishing ISBN 9780754675488 Retrieved 2012 06 14 Padmavati B 2009 Techniques Of Drafting And Pattern Making Garments For Kids And Adolescents 1 Janmahmad 1 January 1982 The Baloch cultural heritage Royal Book Co via Google Books Condra Jill 2013 Encyclopedia of National Dress Traditional Clothing Around the World 2 Social Science a Textbook in History for Class IX as per New Syllabus FK Publications via Google Books Sumathi G J 1 January 2007 Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design New Age International ISBN 9788122413717 via Google Books Rutnagur Sorabji M 1996 The Indian Textile Journal Volume 106 Issues 9 12 3 Condra Jill 2013 Encyclopedia of National Dress Traditional Clothing Around the World 4 Condra Jill 2013 Encyclopedia of National Dress Traditional Clothing Around the World 5 B N Goswamy Kalyan Krishna Tarla P Dundh 1993 Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles Volume 5 6 Punjab District Gazetteers District Attock Year Published 1930 BK 000211 0160 7 Kumar Raj 2006 Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region From 17th to 19th century A D 8 R T I Richard Thomas Incledon Ridgway 1997 Pashtoons History Culture amp Traditions 9 University Brigham Young Learning ProQuest Information and Company ProQuest Information and Learning 1 August 2004 CultureGrams ISBN 9781931694896 via Google Books Gurmukhi e Book Shayed Rammi Mann Jaye Te Hor Kahanian Pure apnaorg com North West Frontier Province Pakistan Information Dept Yearbook 1955 10 Peshawar University of 1 January 1952 Journal of the University of Peshawar via Google Books Captain Hastings E G G 1878 Report of the regular settlement of the peshawar district of the punjab 11 Postans Thomas 1843 Personal Observations on Sindh The Manners and Customs of Its Inhabitants and Its Productive Capabilities 12 Balochi dress Male 12 March 2013 Nadiem Ihsan H December 18 2007 Balochistan Land History People Sang e Meel Publications ISBN 9789693520231 via Google Books DostPakistan pk 13 but now can also be knee length Malik S And Sahgal Gettingahead In Social Studies Orient Blackswan ISBN 9788125022244 via Google Books Irani Tannaaz 10 December 2014 THE ARMCHAIR CRITIC Chafes and Chuckles Cresco Books ISBN 9788192969244 via Google Books Marwaha Pritpal 2012 Shakahaari The Vegetarian Gourmet Fine Authentic Indian Vegetarian Cuisine 14 Cooke David Coxe 1 January 1967 Dera a village in India W W Norton via Google Books Madani Mohsen Saeidi 1 January 1993 Impact of Hindu Culture on Muslims M D Publications Pvt Ltd ISBN 9788185880150 via Google Books Kumar Raj 2006 Paintings and Lifestyles of Jammu Region From 17th to 19th century A D 15 Panjab University Research Bulletin Arts Volume 13 Issue 1 Volume 14 Issue 1982 16 a b c d Mohinder Singh Randhawa 1960 Punjab Itihas Kala Sahit te Sabiachar aad Bhasha Vibhag Punjab Patiala Breidenbach Pal amp Zcaronupanov 2004 Quote And in Bubby Mahil s fashion store in London white socialites and young British Asians shop for the Punjabi suits Walton Roberts amp Pratt 2005 Quote Meena owns a successful textile design and fashion business in the Punjab designing and selling high end salwar kameez Punjabi suits needs context Sheikh Ibriz 27 05 2015 Dress over pants Rest of the world finally catches on to Shalwar kameez trend 17 Bachu 2004 Sorabji M Rutnagur 1996 The Indian Textile Journal Volume 106 Issues 9 12 18 McGilvray Dennis B 2008 Crucible of Conflict Tamil and Muslim Society on the East Coast of Sri Lanka 19 Saikia Yasmin 2011 Women War and the Making of Bangladesh Remembering 1971 Duke University Press p 274 ISBN 978 0 8223 5038 5 Bakshi SHri Ram 1992 Struggle for Independence Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit 20 Ṿai Shalṿah 2002 India s 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Punjab Government Press 1 January 1903 via Google Books O Brien Edward 1881 Glossary of the Multani Language Compared with Punjabi and Sindhi 31 India Haryana 1 January 1988 Haryana District Gazetteers Sirsa Haryana Gazetteers Organization via Google Books Aniruddha Ray Kuzhippalli Skaria Mathew 2002 Studies in history of the Deccan medieval and modern Professor A R Kulkarni felicitation volume 32 A V Narasimha Murthy K V Ramesh 1987 Giridharasri essays on Indology Dr G S Dikshit felicitation volume 33 Marg J J Bhabha for Marg Publications 1 January 1969 via Google Books Punjab District Gazetteer Reprint of Ludhiana District and Malerkotla State Gazetteer 1904 34 Punjab District Gazetteers 1932 Punjab District Gazetteers 1932 dept Punjab revenue 1 January 1876 Land revenue settlement reports via Internet Archive kurta General India Office of the Registrar 1 January 1961 Census of India 1961 Manager of Publications via Google Books Singh Jaisal 1 January 2007 Polo in India New Holland Publishers ISBN 9781845379131 via Google Books Biswas Arabinda Division India Ministry of Information and Broadcasting Publications 1 January 1985 Indian Costumes Publ Division Ministry of Information and Broadcasting via Google Books Country Life Country Life Limited 1 January 2001 via Google Books Carman W Y 1961 Indian Army Uniforms Under the British From the 18th century to 1947 35 Ghurye Govind Sadashiv 1 January 1966 Indian Costume Popular Prakashan ISBN 9788171544035 via Google Books Yadava Ganga Prasad 1982 Dhanapala and His Times A Socio cultural Study Based Upon His Works 36 Sharma Brij Narain 1966 Social life in Northern India A D 600 1000 37 D N Saraf 1987 Arts and Crafts Jammu and Kashmir Land People Culture 38 Umran Khan 14 February 2010 Indian Ethnic Wear ethniccode com India Ethnic Code pp 9 10 Retrieved 19 September 2016 Baden Henry Baden Powell 1872 Hand book of the Manufactures amp Arts of the Punjab With a Combined Glossary amp Index of Vernacular Trades amp Technical Terms Forming Vol Ii to the Hand book of the Economic Products of the Punjab Prepared Under the Orders of Government 39 Kumar Ritu 14 July 2006 Costumes and textiles of royal India Antique Collectors Club ISBN 9781851495092 via Google Books Pathan Mumtaz Husain 1 January 1974 Arab kingdom of al Mansurah in Sind Institute of Sindhology University of Sind via Google Books a b Burton Richard 1996 Sindh and the Races that Inhabit the Valley of the Indus With Notices of the Topography and History of the Province 40 Kumar Raj 1 January 2008 Encyclopaedia of Untouchables Ancient Medieval and Modern Gyan Publishing House ISBN 9788178356648 via Google Books Reginald Edward Enthoven Stephen Meredyth Edwardes 1909 Provincial series Bombay presidency 41 Pakistan Population Census Organisation 1 January 2000 1998 provincial census report of name of province Population Census Organization Statistics Division Govt of Pakistan via Google Books General and cited references editBachu Parminder 2004 Dangerous Designs Asian Women Fashion the Diaspora Economies London Routledge Pp xii 196 ISBN 0415072212 archived from the original on December 31 2008 Breidenbach Joana Pal Nyiri Zcaronupanov Ines 2004 Fashionable Books Identities Global Studies in Power and Culture 11 4 619 628 doi 10 1080 10702890490883885 S2CID 214654975 Walton Roberts Margaret Pratt Geraldine 2005 Mobile Modernities One South Asian Family Negotiates Immigration Gender and Class in Canada Gender Place amp Culture 12 2 173 195 doi 10 1080 09663690500094823 S2CID 144322845 External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Shalwar kameez Himal The Salwar Revolution The Hindu The Spread of the Salwar Fatima Jinnah wearing shalwar qameez Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Shalwar kameez amp oldid 1205648029, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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